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Sorry for not updating more often, but here are at least some new prosjects I am working on over the winter.

I genuinly hate fb and the fact the the activity on the various forums seems to go down, so I will at least try to keep some of these threads current and interesting.

Anyways, I have two major engine-related projects this winter, and the first is to finally install a dry sump setup.

The plan is to mke a tank that mounts in the inner fender something like this: My oldest son is training to be a CNC operator, and part of his education involves welding, so this is basically his project. I have added a couple of pictures of the progress:

Excuse the look of some of the welds, but the guy is 19 and learning. He is a LOT better than me; that's for sure.

Since the tank will be placed higher up than the sump, I will be using a valve that closes the supply line when the ignition is off: I have a CB peformance pump that my son will put in the lathe for a o-ring "job".

The other project is to have a look at the intake system, and based on the dyno results last fall, I feel that it will be a good idea to keep the air horns, but I am also looking at makin sure I have sufficient filtering of the intake air, so I will make a system that uses a centrally mounted air filter along these lines: The idea is to wrap a filter material around the rods between the red "plates" in this picture.

But in stead of the turbo-tubes on the previous picture, I will do something like this on each side: The idea is to maintain the air horns, inside quite large air boxes.

These boxes are my first attemt at 3d-modelling, so there is indeed a steep learning curve in this for me... My sons (aged 13 and 19) are patiently teaching me the fundamentals...

The plan is to 3d-print the parts in PLA and the wrap them with carbon fiber and epoxy resin for looks and durability.

Here are a couple of pics of the different steps of the process: Now our (self made) 3d-printer had a technical problem so the left hand side one is not done yet, but I think this will look good once it is finished.

Hopefully it does not rob too much power, and also it will reduce the intake "barf" a little. I am using this as my daily driver during the "summer", so I am looking for a little comfort also

I will keep you posted once the car is out of winter storage and the parts are test fitted

Looks great! I love all of the 3d printed stuff. I use mine for small brackets and such. Nothing on the engine though. Not yet at least...

Thanks,

I ran my 3-d printed air horns more or less the entire season last year with no issues. There is a constant flow of air through them so they keep cool.

some amazing stuff! got any links for that valve? i looked for one suitable when i was thinking about dry sump!

grelland wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2019 4:18 pm I will be using a valve that closes the supply line when the ignition is off:
valve.jpg

Grelland, where did this valve come from?

Beware:Those valves are frequently not rated for continuous duty...
When they fail, tehy fail closed...kinda like a late model mexican t1 thermostat, but for your oil supply.

This is one of those places that adding parts makes it less reliable.

Just use a decent quality $20 ball valve with a handle lock and an ignition cutoff switch attached... you dont need it to run in for groceries.

If concerned about engine filling up, the alternative is a cheap electric scavenge pump setup only used to pump out the sump if it drains back.
think oil change pump. some are hand powered...

100% duty cycle rated solenoid valves are available. ex;
https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/ ... to-return/

True, decent valves exist, but it's still a point of potential catastrophic failure.
The brass one shown earlier in the thread is not continuous duty rated...

I did have my brass Moroso solenoid stick on my accusump. Had to give it the old solenoid smack to get it to open after being closed and sitting for a few years with old oil in it.