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Makes sense, thanks man. Im going to order the e2000 and see how it works out. Wish I wouldve thought about it a bit more before buying both a holley blue and this other thing. Its cheaper and seems like it will take me further!

E2000 pump installed. Not as "clean" as my prior setup but didnt turn out bad. I looped the outlets together and pressure checked the regulator. 3psi "idle", and up to and up to 25PSI with shop air pressure applied to the regulator. Overall, looked like it should work great. My thoughts that it might provide too much pressure for the CB regulator were incorrect. If I went this way to begin with I couldve saved a good amount of cash.

Question: why are you using soft lines instead of hard lines. Each has it's use so this is meant only as a question.

Lee

I didn't consider the use of a hard line. It sounds expensive and like a real pain to use.

For a carb setup rubber hose will work......just remember that you are now 3 lbs. higher than your maximum boost so you need hose that will support that pressure.
You can get FI hose from most any FLAPS so that might be the way to go. I'm not sure what regular fuel line hose is rated for pressure wise but it might pay to check it out.
Brake line from your local FLAPS will bend easily with the inexpensive benders that are available so you could use some of that in select places.
If using hose...just keep an eye on it and inspect it at least once a year.

I used FI hose specifically for the pressure rating, but the added pressure doesnt exactly give me warm feelings when it comes to the barbs and clamps. I tested pressure up beyond 25PSI and let it sit just to give myself some comfort in the system, and then safety wired the clamps just because I could.

Brake line wouldnt be too bad, esp since I feel like this setup is more permanent than before. It might be worth doing it to the pre-regulator line at minimum since that pressure value is unknown.

Again, not trying to pick! Soft line (the fuel rated line) has minimum bend limits and length of use limits to it. The one loop (a place an air pocket could form) looks to be slightly (but may not be) oval'd in at least one area. Brake lines are a viable option and can be bent fairly tight and are more structural for joins.

Anyway, your work looks both good and looks neat so "good job!"

Lee

No problem, I have thick skin. Thanks for the suggestion, the lines do make some good bends!

wonder how copper tubing would work? easy to work with , can be 'polished'

madmike wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 3:50 am wonder how copper tubing would work? easy to work with , can be 'polished'

I have see in done (scoffed at but that was back before the "creation" . With the higher pressures that can/needs to be run now days copper tubes pressure vs. capability would need to be checked out for sure. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copp ... -d_84.html

Lee

I ran hundreds if not thousand automatic transmission cooling line's 120+ psi
we used 5/16" copper

madmike wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 12:41 pm I ran hundreds if not thousand automatic transmission cooling line's 120+ psi
we used 5/16" copper

As I tried to say, I am not against copper lines but using the proper grade of material and the size you are giving is good to know.

Lee

Okay, for some more interesting things.

Turned the boost up to 15psi today. That little boost controller? it took about 1/8 of a rotation to go from 10psi to 15. If you start at 1 full rotation out, your engine will overboost, a little. Im not saying I did that, but im saying if you did, you might spike to 20 psi the first time you snap the throttle. Theoretically......

Backed spark off to 21* just to be safe. I figure that is "about" .75 degree/psi. Kept everything else the same.

1915cc
110 cam
dual 40
130 main
185 air
32 vent
29mm mod rings
21* spark
50/50 alch/distilled water, 1 gph nozzle per side for 2gph total
65*f ambient temps

98* charge temps
11.8-12.0 AFR
15 psi


Cant detect knock with my untuned ear
pulled all the plugs to look for knock signals and did not detect any.

Need to keep all my probes installed for a while to build confidence. I may end up going down 1 air jet size to pull the AFR at high end down a little bit. If that doesnt work, Ill try upping the main 1 size. Based on my prior data going up to a 135 main should drop the AFR to the 11.3 range. Going down 1 on the air should move it to the 11.5 range.

The vehicle uses about the full RPM range (5800 limiter) to hit 15psi in first and second gear. This really gives it the sensation of a constant pulling until shift. When in third gear and you watch that needle move from 10psi to 15psi, it feels like a little 50 shot of nitrous kicking in. Overall, in my short time, the vehicle feels great. I think going up in boost with this combo would only yield gains in third and fourth gear, and I rarely stay in the throttle that long.

Very nice! Sounds like you pretty much have it nailed down.

Good Job