2276cc, 12:1 CR, Roller-Cammed Daily Driven Oxyboxer

Here's the place for info on converting to a Type V motor!
Gideon
Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 12:01 am

sorry to keep asking stupid questions

Post by Gideon »

Sorry to keep asking off topic stupid questions. How did you adapt the tin behind the pulley to the wasser case?
Gideon
Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 12:01 am

sorry to keep asking stupid questions

Post by Gideon »

double post
Last edited by Gideon on Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Gideon
Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 12:01 am

sorry to keep asking stupid questions

Post by Gideon »

double post
Last edited by Gideon on Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Alex77-
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Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 12:46 pm

Post by -Alex77- »

Wery nice! Any pictures where is engine installed? How close are fuel rails to engineroom sidewalls? What throttlebodies do you have, and what are the intakemanifolds?
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Stripped66
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Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2001 12:01 am

Re: sorry to keep asking stupid questions

Post by Stripped66 »

Gideon wrote:Sorry to keep asking off topic stupid questions. How did you adapt the tin behind the pulley to the wasser case?
I trimmed it to fit the nose of the case, and it is held in place by it's connection to the cylinder/head tins...so, no it's not directly bolted to the case, but it doesn't move around at all either.
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

-Alex77- wrote:Wery nice! Any pictures where is engine installed? How close are fuel rails to engineroom sidewalls? What throttlebodies do you have, and what are the intakemanifolds?
I haven't snapped any recent pics, but maybe this weekend.

The throttle-bodies are TWM DCOE style (the difference is the top of the TB where a linkage or air-cleaner would mount). The intake manifolds are CB Performance big-beef IDF manifolds, so they are pretty tall. While it's a tight fit, I still have the side tar-boards in the engine compartment; if the engine was any wider, I'd have to remove them. The only real hassle is the fuel rails; I had to trim the body around the lip of the engine compartment to clear the fuel-rails. In hindsight, I would've probably been better off finding an adapter to reverse the IDF bolt pattern and flip the injectors to the inside. Oh well...live and learn :?
-Alex77-
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Post by -Alex77- »

No more pictures? :)
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doc
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Post by doc »

Super nice! 8)

Thanks for letting us look.

doc
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Tony Z
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Post by Tony Z »

spectacular. Brilliant work. Thanks for the info and ideas
SiQDiZ
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Post by SiQDiZ »

Any updates mate ? :D
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

SiQDiZ wrote:Any updates mate ? :D
Still driving the piss out of it. It handles the triple-digit heat, bumper-to-bumper traffic, in-town driving and 70-90mph rips down the freeway.
I'll probably quit daily-driving it in about 2 weeks when I begin the transition over to turbo:

A1 1 1/2" turbo header
Innovative ball-bearing turbo
Marty Staggs plenums
smaller Pauter roller cam
Pauter ductile-iron cylinders
vacuum pump

The engine has seen over 4000 street miles since November, and I'll be taking lots of pictures of the valvetrain to document any wear.
Passatman
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Post by Passatman »

Stripped66, What is the MPG like on that engine when driven normally. I was thinking of doing a 1915cc squishes motor.
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

Passatman wrote:Stripped66, What is the MPG like on that engine when driven normally. I was thinking of doing a 1915cc squishes motor.
Many people have asked me this and, seriously, I don't know :lol: I don't keep track, I forget to save my gas receipts and compare to my odometer, and I can't keep my foot out of it. While it's a daily driver, it is never driven "normally" (like a normal, sane person), so I doubt I would have any objective MPG to speak of, even if I did keep track. Sorry!
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Wally
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Post by Wally »

Did you dyno it?

Would be really interesting to know if any advantages in the torque graph could be connected to the roller cam, otherwise what would be the point of this rather large investment for a roller set-up?

Or, in other words, what would you say were the direct advantages of the roller cam you could notice, other than you just proved it can be done? (which is a huge accomplishment in itself, don't get me wrong)

second q.: will you use a Pauter alu rocker set-up on the turbo like you were planning to do?

Thanks!
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi in a streetlegal 1303

"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

Wally wrote:Did you dyno it?

Would be really interesting to know if any advantages in the torque graph could be connected to the roller cam, otherwise what would be the point of this rather large investment for a roller set-up?
I have not, and at this point the N/A combination will not be dyno'd. It should be coming out of the car next week to swap the cam, cylinders, and modify the heads for the turbo.
Or, in other words, what would you say were the direct advantages of the roller cam you could notice, other than you just proved it can be done? (which is a huge accomplishment in itself, don't get me wrong)
Without a similar flat-tappet cam grind to compare, I can't speak much about the advantages, performance-wise. My roller cam certainly has benefits over a comparable Engle K8, but I don't know how the profile compares to a similar FK40-series cam.

It has certainly required a lot more trial-and-error to finalize the valve-train to work with stock head-castings than a proven flat-tappet set-up, but the last thing I've had to worry about is flat cam/lifters or the break-in ritual. More than anything, I did it just to do it...succeed or fail.

second q.: will you use a Pauter alu rocker set-up on the turbo like you were planning to do?

Thanks!
Yep. I'm currently using their 1.4:1 alu rockers. The only thing I'm changing is the rocker shafts/blocks. I'm swapping in a set of 1.5:1 shafts/blocks to move the shafts further away from the valve-stems and help correct some of the geometry (the longer valve stems cause the tips to be located closer to the centerline of the rockers...the 1.5-ratio shafts/blocks should help out).
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