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Should get the engine changed and start on the electrical repair this week. My goal is 2 weeks to running and driving regularly.

Are all the lights out or is it primarily the headlamps? Those and the "accessory" loads all come from the auxiliary "X" contacts in the `71-up ignition switch...black wire w/yellow stripe (in theory - I've seen it red in some 'Ghias).

Can you elaborate on the throwout bearing noise? Sometimes mainshaft or pilot bearing noises are misdiagnosed as coming from the TOB...

What's the current emissions-equipment law in CA for classic cars? It's been years since I've been down there, do you still need to have all of the stock equipment (aircleaner, charcoal canister, carb, distributor) and add-on EGR valve?
If you stay with the proggy, be forewarned that they're infamous for having a flat spot big enough to set up a tennis court on - it's not the carb's fault, it's the size of the plenum chamber coupled with inadequate preheat. Redline makes a manifold with a heat-riser passage that goes up around the plenum - that helps a lot, but it's spendy (I'd rather put the money towards Kads or ICTs m'self.)

Marc wrote:Are all the lights out or is it primarily the headlamps? Those and the "accessory" loads all come from the auxiliary "X" contacts in the `71-up ignition switch...black wire w/yellow stripe (in theory - I've seen it red in some 'Ghias).

Havent really go into it yet, but there is a lot of spaghetti in the trunk. I'm sure that its just PO not knowing what there doing mostly. I have a wiring diag for it so it wont be a big deal.

Marc wrote: Can you elaborate on the throwout bearing noise? Sometimes mainshaft or pilot bearing noises are misdiagnosed as coming from the TOB...

Its a squeaking growl at low rpm, I will know more tomorrow when I drop the engine. There were no noises in the trans during my test drive the other day.

Marc wrote: What's the current emissions-equipment law in CA for classic cars? It's been years since I've been down there, do you still need to have all of the stock equipment (aircleaner, charcoal canister, carb, distributor) and add-on EGR valve?
If you stay with the proggy, be forewarned that they're infamous for having a flat spot big enough to set up a tennis court on - it's not the carb's fault, it's the size of the plenum chamber coupled with inadequate preheat. Redline makes a manifold with a heat-riser passage that goes up around the plenum - that helps a lot, but it's spendy (I'd rather put the money towards Kads or ICTs m'self.)

Since its a pre 74, there is now smog inspection required . I know the downfalls of the progressive carb and will rebuild it and sell it. I have a set of Kads sitting on the shelf to go with whatever I do with the present engine. After its out I will do a bottom end spec check and if it passes that, I will refresh the heads and do new barrels and pistons. If it doesn't pass, it will be torn down and will become a 1776 or larger build. In the mean time the 71 convertibles engine that's a "known good" unit will be installed with the stock 34 pict and a stock air cleaner. While I do the required rust repair to the vert and redo the engine that came out of the Ghia.

Was the stock 'Ghia aircleaner included in the parts cache or will you have to buy one? `71 Bus is identical; earlier Bus/Ghia units will also work although they don't have the same T.A.C. control (but spring's just around the corner so it's not vital).
T.O.B. shouldn't be in contact with moving parts if there's sufficient freeplay...does the noise occur at the top of the clutch pedal travel?

No air cleaner, have to buy one. I have a line on one though. Not even sure if its the T.O.B. to be honest, didn't take a lot of time searching for the noise. I was trying to get it out on a road test to see what else it needed. Once I found all the oil on the engine I knew it was going to be pulled soon. The trans was solid on the test, no noise and shifted good with out any grinds...up or down.

Today was a loooong day. Got the engine out of the Ghia, that was pretty easy. The main seal has been leaking for awhile, there was a build up of oil and clutch dust all over the inside of the bell housing. So now it sits in the garage waiting for tear down. Pulled the trans out and changed the nosecone gasket, hockey stick bushing and seal, and the input shaft seal. I also replaced all the mounts with Bus ones, there made out of a little stiffer rubber than the type 1 mounts, and a new trans to pan seal. The Bowden tube was good along with the throttle cable tube. I didn't like the throw out, spun to easy to me, had a good used one to trade out. Installing the vert engine wasn't so cut and dry.....it fought me for awhile. I ended up pulling it back out and re-doing the clutch plate alignment and trying again. I got it to go in, but not all the way. Found that I had to much adjustment on the cable, its in now, I have to remember to not put the exhaust on before installation next time. Ran out of light and energy for today....will finish it tomorrow.

IT'S OFFICIAL......................the Ghia runs and drives well!! No weird noises, the trans shifts good and is noise free. Drives straight and true and will cruise at 65-70 without breaking a sweat. I will have to fine tune the tire pressures for the best ride-vs-performance. I have 185/65-15's on all 4 corners with the rears on the Formula Vee "Mags", it looks like I could go 195/65-15 on the rear without clearance issues, I will have to try it. I think I will stick with the 185's on the front and will get them mounted on the mags and on the Ghia.

There are a few things that need to be worked out;

1. The brakes are none to happy after sitting for 10 years, mainly the front discs. So those will be coming apart and measured and turned or replaced along with the pads and the rear brakes will get the same treatment (its a good thing I save all my extra parts).

2. I have some flat spots in the 34 pict, it feels like a poor accelerator pump adjustment. The engine that came out of Vivian and that has been re-sealed, a new clutch, and the T-Stat system repaired is working like a champ. A little smelly right now, but that is all the paint and garbage on the heater boxes "finding its happy place".

3. The body has me puzzled? It's red in spots and yellow in others, either way, I will start buffing out the paint for now cause a paint job isn't in the cards for now. I need to investigate more and find out if it has had a nose swap, although I cant seem to find any evidence of it yet. Or maybe its just been painted a few times.

A low-profile aircleaner such as you've put on tends to disrupt the fuel standoff fog which exists above the carb on an ACVW - before you expend too much energy trying to fine-tune the carb you should at least fit an elbow from a stock 'Ghia or Bus aircleaner and hang the filter off to the side.
There should be loop seals in the vacuum hoses to the distributor - on the advance side the factory used a formed metal pipe, on the retard side the hose is merely routed upwards from the carb before descending to the dizzy. Without these there's a tendency for condensed fuel in the lines to pool in the canister.
IF that DVDA isn't leaking on the retard side (they're infamous for that) timing should be 5°ATDC at idle (~875 RPM). If it is leaking, plug the line at the carb and treat the distributor as an SVDA, with 7.5° BTDC at idle.
I've found that you can sometimes help a flat spot out by fiddling with the aim of the accelerator pump nozzle. Normally it should squirt the fuel stream as close as possible to the side of the venturi without hitting it, but if all else fails try swinging it in so that it just kisses the distribution nozzle rim (so that it atomizes above the throttle plate) - sometimes that works better on the heavier cars and/or when there's no thermostatic aircleaner.

Thanks for the info Marc, I'm looking for a stock air cleaner for it now, since this engine will be in it for awhile. I will get a metal line for the advance so I can duplicate the loop and the dizzy is being used as a SVDA and the retard line on the carb is capped. Its not a bad flat spot, so I will wait till I get a factory AC installed before "playing" with the carb. I'm at 6* BTDC initial and 30* full advance.

On another note, I started cleaning the body up late this afternoon. I wont know till the morning when I have more light, but it looks like the paint will shine up a bit. At least make it a 50 footer.

Found the original color of almost Marigold under the Ghia script on the engine lid and I was correct. It looks like it will clean up pretty nicely and be a 50 footer.

So today I started rubbing the paint out and the little fixes needed to be a reliable driver. The paints not gunna look to bad when its done. There will be some rust spots here and there, but I will put the rust in check for now. It will be a LOOOONG TIME before it will be painted again. I also got the new tires on the other mags and mounted today also.

Hmm... your Ghia project used to be Red, per evidence found under the Yellow paint?

Sounds like a trend, as I just picked up a $200 Ghia project that was originally Red - under the White paint job. My car also
came with 95% of an Air Conditioning system...

bryan

If there's still a sticker in the trunk it'll show the original paint code for the car - or of the front clip, at least



http://www.type-14.com/paint.htm

Unfortunately the trunk sticker is long gone, been working on getting it ready for the move.

Tore out the crispy headliner today and the weird vinyl covered dash and I believe that I found evidence of a front clip replacement. The bottom of the "A" pillar is red under the yellow on both sides and the top of the pillar and the inside of the roof shows yellow to be the color. I also found what appears to be welds in the center of the pillar....more investigation is needed to confirm.