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The stock rear shocks have poor rebound control so the rear can "move around" on corner entry especially if the front has tight KYB dampers and fat bar (near solid in a corner).

Could well be that then... Looking at full set of koni's in the future but they're other parts higher up the list!

When I mentioned Camber I couldn't remember the term Scrub Radius. I used to have a very good video of this but the best I can find now is :

Lee

Sorry guys been delayed on getting the measurements

still not got there yet! do need to sort it as i took it up to 80 other day and backed off on a probably not perfectly flat road and it moved about a fair bit!

going to drop the rear 1 outer spline then adjust the toe setting from there!

it will happen!

One other question here.....
How old are these tires (tyres, depending on country)?

Old rubber gets so hard, so quickly.
Check the date code on them.

My Beetle seems to really like the stock Sachs oil shocks on the front, and GR2 on the rear.

If you are taking the rear apart to reset the ride height, just go ahead and change the bushings. You will be surprised by the difference.

The rears are old, like 4-5yrs old atleast, that's when I got the car.
Nice set of sticky tyres is coming soon, probably two end of month and two the next

Is there anyway to know what size bushings I need before I strip it down?

Cheers

For street use, the rubber is recommended.
These are rubber bushings, they are all standard sized.

You also might wish to inspect your wheel bearings for play/looseness.

Wheel bearings are good
I'd just seen different ID bushes, and smooth and knob's?
Smooth inside an knobs outside?

Cheers

andy198712 wrote:Wheel bearings are good
I'd just seen different ID bushes, and smooth and knob's?
Smooth inside an knobs outside?

Cheers

the bushes are standard, once you identify that you need them for a Swingaxle car.
IRS uses a different set, although one of the bushings is used in both.

There is one inboard and one outboard per side at the springplate/torsion tube joint.

NOTE, unless you have done this job before, please do a bit of research, and use a good tool to uncompress the springplate.

it is a slightly difficult job, but not to bad.
Take it slow, and steady, making sure no body parts get in the path of the springplate in case the tools fail, as serious bodily harm could easily occur.

(this is the opportunity to install larger diameter rear torsions if you desire)

Cheers bud! Not done it before but read up on it good time to lower the rear a click too!

I found adding a camber compensator to my swingaxle car made a HUGE difference. If you haven't got the factory Z-bar, then $100 for a cheap one + simple u-bolt mod makes the car a winner.

Here's the mod...



Plate + urethane snubber + u-bolt = controls the axles all the time.

ah right, i have one in the shed actually, it has the fabric (?) straps over the axles, that kind, if you know what i mean, i guess i should clean it up and fit it then!

pretty much like this