2270cc type 4 EFI Turbo: my first engine build

[wreck]

Is there a horsepower limit before you should look at getting the case shuffle pinned ? I've a 2.6 (103x78) that ultimately I'd like to boost . It already has race wear case bolts .

[split1950]

Is there a horsepower limit before you should look at getting the case shuffle pinned ? I've a 2.6 (103x78) that ultimately I'd like to boost . It already has race wear case bolts .

I'm not sure what the limit of the type 4 case is. If you ask enough people you'll get multiple answers. It was on my list but I was told it's not a type 4 problem. I guess I'll find out soon. Frankly I am new to this so if you're contemplating it you should ask the experts on here.

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[wreck]

Thanks Split . It's great to see more performance type 4's being built .I'm looking forward to see yours progress. I'm contemplating going with a M90 blower for the simplicity to start with, first I need to swap to EFI for the ease of tuning .

[Wally]

Not being a problem, doesn't mean things can't be improved upon. Case in point: 911 cases have shuffle pins from the factory on ALL bearing saddles...

[Wally]

Yeah I don't know how high to go on the boost until I try it. I'd like to go 20+ PSI finally providing it cools OK. Do you think it can take it?

I'd say yes, but....only if your tuning is spot on. No knock. At all.
BTW, 'spot-on' is way different then 'very safe'...

[split1950]

Yeah I don't know how high to go on the boost until I try it. I'd like to go 20+ PSI finally providing it cools OK. Do you think it can take it?

I'd say yes, but....only if your tuning is spot on. No knock. At all.
BTW, 'spot-on' is way different then 'very safe'...

I guess spot on takes some skill and a methodical approach! Currently I'm thinking about how to avoid knock and maybe sense it. The S60 doesn't seem to have that feature.
As for the shuffle pins if I have to open the case again I'll get them done. Hopefully I don't have to open it for quite a while!
I'm looking forward to getting the FI running on this now. Got to buy throttle bodies next.

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[split1950]

OK, took some more pics now I'm home.
Test stand I made to adapt my engine stand for the cam break in / first run

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So as that was all OK I needed to fit the double valve springs.
I pulled one head off today and was surprised how clean it was in there.
This thing has run for 30 minutes now, OK the carbs are not set well, you can see one cylinder is lean, the other rich, but the piston crowns are still like new.

Here's a short video of it ticking over after the cam break in;

[Wally]

Nice! That particular shroud is not my favorite, but alas, you have it now.

[split1950]

Nice! That particular shroud is not my favorite, but alas, you have it now.

Yes I spent a lot of time making it fit. Also I realised I need to leave holes to torque the head occasionally and I'm not sure how it'll look afterwards so I'm not so happy with it. Do you know a better one ? This was from bbt but I guess you knew that : l

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[Wally]

Yeah, its the 'generic' shroud which is copied off the BAS original afaik.
Problem is that the case is now machined for this one. Most other shrouds use a different case 'cut'... One of the things you find out along the way I suppose..
AFAIK, only Remmele offers a shroud for the Ahnendorp cut but with a slightly better 'rear end' (shallower), but not sure you can still get it or even order it succesfully (some have had trouble with that).
Or just look up an old thread from user 'Sandeep' in the type4rum section and see how he used diverters to direct airflow better and gain a more even cylinderhead temp distribution..

[split1950]

Yeah, its the 'generic' shroud which is copied off the BAS original afaik.
Problem is that the case is now machined for this one. Most other shrouds use a different case 'cut'... One of the things you find out along the way I suppose..
AFAIK, only Remmele offers a shroud for the Ahnendorp cut but with a slightly better 'rear end' (shallower), but not sure you can still get it or even order it succesfully (some have had trouble with that).
Or just look up an old thread from user 'Sandeep' in the type4rum section and see how he used diverters to direct airflow better and gain a more even cylinderhead temp distribution..

Ha typical!
I did make some ducting inside that in y mind splits the airflow evenly accross the heads.
The vanes I made are very close to the inside of the shroud, I think they split up the airflow fairly evenly.
Time will tell.

[wreck]

]be careful with ducting , I played with ducting in my Sharp housing without CHT readings and cooked #3 . Get a CHT gauge to verify you're going in the right direction . The air doesn't exit the fan straight ,it spins to the #1 #2 side , If you have a look at a 993 stator/fan housing you can see what Porsche did to straighten the airflow .

I just ended up with one vane splitting the air between #1 and #2 , that is with a Sharp shroud , I guess they are all slightly different .

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[split1950]

I did this

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The vanes are <5mm from the inside of the shroud.
I have a sensor on #3 (not connected up yet for the cam break in).
I also have a sensor on #1 for the FI warm up.
I was thinking about a 4 channel under plug guage at least until get the thing set up and drive it a bit.
I'm still waiting for Duluxe to finish the body and Spike to paint it, so I have to wait for that a couple more months.

[Wally]

Nice one! Yeah, that will improve things a lot already I think. Well done!

[wreck]

That looks really good .