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Dusty in many ways I agree with you. My problem is I got a taste of power steering on this and I need my fix. On the Mohave Road it was such a difference in power steering in this this and not having it. I’ll get it figured out.

Still farting around with this. Leaving town again so will be another week before I can finish it.

I purchased another power steering motor, differences are the one I purchased without power will not turn at all, once power applied it will with ease. The one I am taking off turns with or without power, with power it turns to a point then binds. Will look more into that when I get back.

Leatherneck wrote: ↑Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:14 pm Still farting around with this. Leaving town again so will be another week before I can finish it.

I purchased another power steering motor, differences are the one I purchased without power will not turn at all, once power applied it will with ease. The one I am taking off turns with or without power, with power it turns to a point then binds. Will look more into that when I get back.

Since I still have a frame head center-steer R&P would be harder to install than on a rail. The other thing is most of them are 1 1/2 turns from full lock to full lock and I don't think I need steering that sensitive (maybe if I had it I would think differently). Besides I use turning brakes when I have to make a tight turn other than the really tight turns the stock VW steering is quick enough.
With the sand tires I use steering is sensitive enough especially in soft sand where you can "dig in" easily. I'm not saying no but not enthused over it either.

Need to do some talking to some of the guys I know who build or have had old rigs rebuilt to modern thought.

Lee

I got the new ( to me) power steering unit in, shortening up the steering rod and drilled 1/4” hole, will add Grade 8 hardware to keep in place

It took me a while to see what you are talking about.

It this a jam bolt or a through bolt? If it is a through bolt is one side of the connection tube bare and the other side threaded?

Depending on which answer a grade 8 could be good or bad depending on which style of connector you are having to use. A short bolt with a Jam nut on top probably doesn't need to be a grade 8 unless you want it. A threaded receptacles might be a different story as threads should not be in shear assuming that is a problem. What is available and what you (metaphoric you) can get are probably two totally different things as most places who carry fasteners have to have a stock limitation if stock in house taxing is going on.

For what it is worth.

Lee

Lee that bolt is just there to remind me I need to get the correct size 1/4” bolt and nylock to go there, two sets in fact. It will be trade 8 though.

Since it will be a through bolt try to get one with a shank on it. The shanks on a bolt (the not threaded part) are designed for loading but since the material in threads is either compressed (rolled threads) or cut (as in using a die or lathe) so the threaded area won't handle loads as well.

The big problem here is to get a bolt with the right sized shank then the threads can be cut down if needed (3 threads showing is the minimum rule). The problem here is most fastener stores buy/stock in 1/4 inch lengths over all with no regard to the details. This is mostly because of stock taxes and/or stock room.

Lee

I’ll end up cutting down, I have one of those dealeos you put on your drill to round off the cut threads. I like it fo sure.