Re: I found the limit of the stock clutch...
Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 8:02 am
Here’s what a clutch looks like getting smoked at about the 50 second spot.
https://youtu.be/zJ-dKHk7Yvc
https://youtu.be/zJ-dKHk7Yvc
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Can you detail how to do the proper clutch/flywheel setup? I'm struggling with this at the moment myself.gbaker770 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 18, 2021 7:57 am It’s the old “ bolt it together and run it” theory. Then you hear the “ my stage 4 and 3 puck slipped at 10 psi on my 1641”. Proper clutch/flywheel setup rarely happens. Most people check the torque and shim to get the breakaway they want and call it good.
I can tell you a stage 1 and 4 puck holds over 370 whp on the dyno with multiple pulls and will run consistent 6.70’s and 10’s in an 1800+ lb street car on DOT’s if setup correctly.
https://youtu.be/18rNp_oj7m8
How was the 4 puck engagement? Sprung or solid centergbaker770 wrote:It’s the old “ bolt it together and run it” theory. Then you hear the “ my stage 4 and 3 puck slipped at 10 psi on my 1641”. Proper clutch/flywheel setup rarely happens. Most people check the torque and shim to get the breakaway they want and call it good.
I can tell you a stage 1 and 4 puck holds over 370 whp on the dyno with multiple pulls and will run consistent 6.70’s and 10’s in an 1800+ lb street car on DOT’s if setup correctly.
https://youtu.be/18rNp_oj7m8
Thanks for the info!gbaker770 wrote:Solid Kennedy 4 puck. There is a very big difference between disc makers. I think I tried 3-4 different 4 pucks.
You get use to the 4 puck on the street. I drove the car a couple times a week so it didn’t bother me.
Most shops will bring their stone to touch the disc surface, then zero the machine. Then they'll grind it down until the surface is perfect. They then go up and grind the clutch surface by the same amount. This is the correct way, right? WRONG!!!! Doing it that way will preserve the error.Ol'fogasaurus wrote: ↑Fri Dec 17, 2021 8:16 am The "stepped" style of flywheel, if turned correctly, should have both the PP mounting off-set distance and the disc area both turned to the spec. distances required.
Having the flywheel turned and forgetting to turn the PP mounting area also is not unusual so after turning the off-set distance should be checked just as a precaution.
I agree, the two surfaces have to be "relevant? to each other.Bruce2 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 19, 2021 10:47 pmMost shops will bring their stone to touch the disc surface, then zero the machine. Then they'll grind it down until the surface is perfect. They then go up and grind the clutch surface by the same amount. This is the correct way, right? WRONG!!!! Doing it that way will preserve the error.Ol'fogasaurus wrote: ↑Fri Dec 17, 2021 8:16 am The "stepped" style of flywheel, if turned correctly, should have both the PP mounting off-set distance and the disc area both turned to the spec. distances required.
Having the flywheel turned and forgetting to turn the PP mounting area also is not unusual so after turning the off-set distance should be checked just as a precaution.
The correct way is to grind down the disc surface, then take the clutch surface down until it is 21.0mm above the disc surface. 24mm for a 180mm clutch.