Newbie Got a Basket Case

[Clonebug]

Art I think he would need Volume not pressure ,I know my weber's can only take 3 1/2 lbs. i'd pick up a cheap used holley 'red '

With the regulator he has should be able to keep it down to 3 lbs. off boost. They are adjustable. With boost reference he should be able to boost 3 lbs less than the capability of the pump he uses.
I’ve never used an electric pump with carb so I can’t recommend which one to use.
Add to that I haven’t looked at a carb in almost ten years……..and don’t miss it a bit…..

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I have used electric fuel pumps with carbs, and they do work unless the carb is old and needs rebuilding or the fuel pump is too strong. A lot of times, with a carb, the problem is usually with the float and needle and seat, but the gaskets can also take a beating.

FI and "puffing a engine" I haven't delt with so I can't help there.

Lee

[madmike]

My 36 hp shroud works ok, no flaps but have O.E.M. head tins,(oil coolers are almost a must,hot foamy oil comes out a turbos) no sleds definitely no extra tin it don't need I don't use a head temp gauge but have an oil temp Oil pressure and tach, brain fart on the name of the a/f gauge,my return line is like 3/8", I've ran Holley Black/Blue/Red pumps they just last longer when they arnt deadheaded

[Clonebug]

Excellent info gentlemen. Thanks for your time.

Starting to get used to the idea of some tunnel surgery.
Did it to my Fastback and it was a real chore to do correctly to safely handle FI pressures.

You guys use an FI pump like an airtex but just soft regulate it and send it down the loop?
How about that CB in/out fitting so you don't have to cut the fuel tank?
A normal street car wouldn't need a swirl pot and all that, right?

Always thought you wanted to use the bigger line for the return.. Otherwise the pressure can 'stack up and creep'?

For the bottom of the fuel tank you can use a 1/4 NPT tap and thread it down a ways........check the orientation of the Tee and thread the hole until you get the Tee to face the way you want it. I used JIC fittings in the tee and Fuel rated hose to the pump and also 1/4 inch fuel hose from the original line to the back side of the Tee.
The naysayers will disagree but it's been trouble free for 43,000 miles and 8 years. there are pictures in my build......Probably page 40-50 or somewhere there. Page 40 is the start of my FI upgrade. There are also pics of how I installed a second line for the pressure side along with pump and filter mounting. Use it for ideas...copy it exactly...or laugh at it and sneer.....

[Clatter]

Doing homework, i get the feeling my 58/69 turbo is too big.

Turbonetics website lists it at 450HP?

Is it too big, or WAY too big?
Having problems finding detailed info.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Doing homework, i get the feeling my 58/69 turbo is too big.

Turbonetics website lists it at 450HP?

Is it too big, or WAY too big?
Having problems finding detailed info.

Like it or not, if you have it you will have to try it out and that could end up being an addiction!

Lee

[Clonebug]

Big strokers can handle bigger turbo. It’s all in how you want the boost to come in. Mikey says you don’t need low to mid range boost with a stroker since it has so much torque as is.
It’s personal preference. Build it your way or with the parts you have. You can always change it ) later cuz you know you want to……

[carsten bb]

Doing homework, i get the feeling my 58/69 turbo is too big.

Turbonetics website lists it at 450HP?

Is it too big, or WAY too big?
Having problems finding detailed info.

Have you measured the impellers? Or do you only looked at the turbine housing AR size?
The AR size doesn’t say anything about how much hp the turbo can support. It’s like looking at the exhaust tip of a car, and saying ‘that’s a 3”, so it’s 350 hp. The wheel sizes is what’s it’s about.

[madmike]

what I meant was,, strokers has gobs of low/mid range torque depending on the combo,if I what a quicker boosting turbo , I grab one off ebay and see what it does,,,Cheers,mike

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Stroker setups do have the potential for more low-end torque but there also other things that could/should be considered as well such as the cam shaft. I don't run a stroker but did have a high lift, short duration cam shaft ground for my use. If I remember correctly the angle of the lobes ("the split") also changed somewhat too.

For what it is worth.

Lee

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrp- ... aft-power/

If you do look up the "high lift and short duration cam shafts" you can get some opinions on the subject that I think are wrong.

[Clatter]

Excellent info gents.
I'm totally new to this turbo thing and am learning every day.

You can just open up housings and measure wheels to know specifics?
Any other measurements besides wheel sizes?

Since this whole motor is old, apart and unknown, I'm going to be checking out everything.
Having had a head come off an exhaust valve,
First thing to do is open it up and see if the impeller is damaged.
Are those China turbos worth messing with, or avoid like the plague?

After seeing this video, turbos don't seem so mysterious, and rebuild kits are cheap on ebay.
Notice you don't see a clip at the end showing it actually running...
Is it really this easy?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iNZK4jeRSI

Couple things I'm also thinking.

Should i smooth away the valve guide sticking into the exhaust port?

Upgrade 8mm head studs to 10?

Also thinking this 1700# pressure plate isn't going to be enough.
Is there a special disk i could use to keep the lighter plate?
The original build sheet had a 2300.
If the lower end is going in for balancing, I'm going to have to pick the right plate.

[Clatter]

I'd just blow some air into the hot side and remove the little rusty bits(normal)
if that flywheel is wedgemated u will know it make a puller, I have a pic of mine if ya need it?
I don't see why a stock fuel pump wouldn't work ya got a good reg ,is it boost referenced? (if you need to u can use the stock fuel line for a return )

Mike,
I need info on how to pull a wedgemated flywheel!
Digging and digging, there's this legend of Dave Kawwell and the "two screwdrivers method" but no pics and that's it.

Looking at this flywheel, it's pretty chewed up.
Bet you it's taken a beating over the years.

Hook a brother up!

[carsten bb]

Excellent info gents.
I'm totally new to this turbo thing and am learning every day.

You can just open up housings and measure wheels to know specifics?
Any other measurements besides wheel sizes?

Since this whole motor is old, apart and unknown, I'm going to be checking out everything.
Having had a head come off an exhaust valve,
First thing to do is open it up and see if the impeller is damaged.
Are those China turbos worth messing with, or avoid like the plague?

After seeing this video, turbos don't seem so mysterious, and rebuild kits are cheap on ebay.
Notice you don't see a clip at the end showing it actually running...
Is it really this easy?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iNZK4jeRSI

Couple things I'm also thinking.

Should i smooth away the valve guide sticking into the exhaust port?

Upgrade 8mm head studs to 10?

Also thinking this 1700# pressure plate isn't going to be enough.
Is there a special disk i could use to keep the lighter plate?
The original build sheet had a 2300.
If the lower end is going in for balancing, I'm going to have to pick the right plate.

Trying to answer some of your questions:

Just remove the compressor and turbine housing. It’s smart to soak with wd40 in advance. Easy, so you don’t ding the impellers.
Measure big and small diameter, that will give you an idea of what you got. If it’s reasonable the right size, I would use it.
They are easy to work on, balancing them is the tricky bit.

I use 8mm studs at about 550+WHP. Not sure if you need to upgrade….

Clutch; black magic disc will give you some extra holding power of the pressure plate. Depends on your power goal.

Valveguide removing; No.

Fuel pump; Holley red is NOT enough. You need a fuel pump that can deliver flow AND pressure. Not only flow. Malpassi regulator is really good at controlling your pressure requirements with boost reference.


Hope this helps.
C

[madmike]

didn't see this until now, I'll try to remember to take a pic of my flywheel puller, it's simple to make
no on trimming the valve guild, good tune and they don't melt for the price and how long them china turbos last I think they are OK

[Clatter]

Much thanks C. Appreciate you sharing the wisdom..

Ran out there and ripped it open today.

VERY happy to see no nicks or dings on the compressor turbine!
Valve head came clear off and no visible damage!

Hot side:
2.92" -maybe a bit more- or about 74mm.
It's 2.92 inches because all bolts are inches on this thing.
Forgot i even had inch wrenches..!


Forgot to get the small measurement.

Cold side:
2.76" or 70mm large.


Somewhere around 1.93" or 49mm small.



The shaft spins really tidy and smooth.
There is no measurable end play, but, disassembled, there is about .025" side-play measured from the end.
Does this measurement mean anything?
I'm guessing there's a plain bearing (babbit bushing) in there.



Dag, I'm kicking myself for not getting that other measurement.
Because i have so little storage space i put it all back together..!

Also found some small sticks/leaves/grass in both sides.
Like it sat outside or under a lawn mower or..?

So,
What you think?
How will this thing feed my 2275 here?

Just handling this huge thing I'm starting to get really really stoked!