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At that price I answered my own question. There sure is almost a tool for everything!

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Here's some more connections made, I'm also messing around with some piping from the intercooler to carb hat. I think a piece of pipe would look better than all of the black silicone couplers and then I can move the bov behind the fan shroud

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V8Nate wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2025 10:08 pm At that price I answered my own question. There sure is almost a tool for everything!

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I bought one of these and loved it. I only had to use it on a couple tubes, but glad I had it!

I ended up changing the post intercooler ducting and moved the bov to the back side of the fan shroud. I also decided on using my fiberglass W decklid on this version of my bug. It looks like it was ment to be as well, I'm going to utilize the extra 2 mounting holes in the intercooler to be a catch for some pins I'll attach to the decklid. I'll use the same latch system I was using on the race decklid for the bottom

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V8Nate wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2025 12:48 am I ended up changing the post intercooler ducting and moved the bov to the back side of the fan shroud. I also decided on using my fiberglass W decklid on this version of my bug. It looks like it was ment to be as well, I'm going to utilize the extra 2 mounting holes in the intercooler to be a catch for some pins I'll attach to the decklid. I'll use the same latch system I was using on the race decklid for the bottom

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Moving the BOV and using the fiberglass decklid is a solid choice that extra mounting for the pins is a clever touch. The latch system from the race decklid should work great for securing everything, too. It’s all coming together

Thank you, slowly but surely it's coming together. I've also made the decision to switch out the fitech to a holley sniper 2 barrel. Mainly because it has a bigger fuel map and i am more familiar with the software.

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Well it's a no go with the sniper, it is .285 taller than the fitech. Even if I would have started with the sniper before I made any brackets or intake piping the intercooler wouldn't have fit.

Anyways I got all the intake piping finished the other day and put a hinge on the decklid. I just drilled and tapped the fiberglass to temporarily hold the hinge in place until I fiberglass it. I have 8mm bolts going thru the hinge and intercooler with nuts for now. I ordered up some 8mm wing nuts to hold it tight for its final form. The hinge is basically to allow the lower latch to work properly and not to put stress on the decklid opening and closing it.

Now I just need to make the lower mount for the latch and I can move on to welding some flanges for the exhaust and the rear tin that goes up against the body and it will finally be teardown time then final assembly.

I also sent the file of my carb hat I designed to a guy locally to print in black petg. We will see what kind of pressure these 3d printed parts can hold up to!

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Lookin good. Sorry about the Holley fitment issue. Does this mean you’ll be going back to Fitech?

Thanks Daniel. Yep I'll be keeping the fitech on it. It actually ran pretty well, it had a couple quirks but overall a solid little unit. This time I will be utilizing the timing control feature though

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I have been happy with mine but there were many challenges at the beginning. I've got an early unit so the programming did start out as a v8 program and due to this somethings were left in for the v8- this made my timing controls a bit goofy. I was able to get around this by setting the timing to 20 degs then verifying it actually was at 20 degs. I checked it from 15- 35 deg's and found it got further and further off as I went higher on the timing. Not a big problem once the problem was identified, I just had to keep this in mind when I was making adjustments. I could never make it run right when moving the fuel injectors to port, which is odd because AJ runs them as port and sometimes hybrid port/throttle body injected. But, running them in the throttle body has worked great for me and I love the simplicity of tuning on the fly. I can go out make a couple of hard pulls in 3rd and have my under boost fueling set. If I'm heading out of town to Anaheim I can tune my lean cruise and part throttle settings. Heading out to the empi show last year I found I was running way lean under decel (before injector shut down) and it was causing a very small hicup when getting back on the throttle- corrected that on the 60/215/91 merge!

Bad ass! This was actually a lowbugget kit I got second hand for cheap. I had a map sensor seal issue where it blocked the map sensor port. The only other problem was with the fuel pump. With the tee feeding the pump it would cavitate bad unless I had the pump pwm turned way down into the 20's. The problem that would happen is sometimes I'd start my car and it would run super rich and the power would be at 100(you could hear heavy cavitation) to fix it I'd have to shut it off and re upload the tune(it probably happened 5-10 percent of the time)

I called fitech and they said with me turning the pwm down so far it was causing funky things to happen with the system. I have since installed a new larger capacity tank and one of the fitech retrofit in tank pump units so that should fix that. I was also digging around all my efi kits and found a newer 2 barrel fitech with the upgraded ecu so I will be installing that(supposedly faster learning and the relays are moved and replaceable instead of being built into the ecu)

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I am running the inline pump Aj sells and using a t just under the stock fuel tank. 3/8" outlet at fuel tank, to the t that is 3/8" top and bottom with a 1/4" barb in the middle. this is attached to the stock fuel line for a return. I ran a 3/8" line for the feed. And am using a filter for a ford focus (they actually use the same filter for some of the early 6.8L v10's as well) feeding to the pump. I have no fuel pressure issues with this set up.

The external relays are a great thing on the new units. The older style drivers would fail and then you're dead in the water. The only electrical problem I've had was with the weather pack seal to the main power feed connector. I have had to repair the pins due to water intrusion. After the second time I just eliminated the connector and went directly to the power supply.

I ran mine off of the factory fuel line fitting down to an acorn filter(which could have caused an issue) to the tee that fed the pump and return.

I now have the fuel lines routed thru the center of the pan(which was a huge pain btw) I think this setup will be golden, fits nicely under my v8 air compressor too

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Very cool! I'd have to imagine running a fuel line down the tunnel must have been crazy! I just run them down that little C channel down the passenger side.