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Today, I checked the Aux Air Valve/device by blowing in it......no blockage. changed the condenser also. Tomorrow will check resistance at head temp sensor. For testing fuel pressure, My press. gauge is gone, probably somebody borrowed it, so on to the Home Depot for a new one. Also ordered a volt regulator, a lot more $$ than my other vw regulators. Last time my D jet type3 acted that way, it turned out to be a bad VR.

Dis you check the resistance on that CHT sensor? Ray

Yes, I had a reading of 4000 Ohm, while Haynes says it should be around 2500 Ohm. Is that considered out of allowable range? Are those sensors the same as type 3s? Can I temporarily ground that signal to the ECU and have a running motor?

Yes..That is way out of range. That could be doing it. If you either have the CHT unplugged...or it is faulty....you will get a start-up....and it will run maybe 150 revolutions....then turn off. There were a coupel of part #'s. But generally...D-jets wws the same as the type 3. I think there may have been a second part # for L-jet. Iwill check. Ray

Test procedure for L-Jet Temp Sensor (TS2)...thanks to Jens Vagepohl for the T4 site and manuals...

http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/tests/ljet15.htm

Basically, Haynes is correct, at 68 deg F (sensor temp), you should see 2-3 K Ohms, resistance goes up to 7-12 K Ohms at 14 deg F, and goes down to 250-400 Ohms at 176 deg F.

My reading was at ~ 65 F. , so I thought that comparing it to the 2000 Ohm at 68 F was close enough. Ray, what you're describing is EXACTLYwhat the car does. It starts almost perfectly, runs almost operfectly for aboyt a minute, then stumbles and dies, no matter what you do. I alreday picked up the sensor on the way and a new volt regulator for good measure. It will go in tomorrow. Any tricks as to removing the old sensor and going around its wire? am thinking to snip the wire off to be able to fit the socket in. Also is it better loosened with a warm engine?

I think I used my O2 sensor socket to get it out and in. I'll bet that'll fix her up,loL! Need to figure out a way to put a resister and a LED setup of some kind in the line to all those things to tell you if they are in range when if lights up,lol! I wish I was a mech/elect eng.!! I guess a good meter and a weekend tuneup day would do that too! bill

It is 13mm. So...what I have done...is take a deep well 13mm socket...and cut a notch halfway up the side.....a V-notch. Make it 1/2"-5/8" wide at the outside of the Vee. Then smooth the edges of burrs with the dremel. This way the wire can be fed out the side and allow the use of ratchet and extension to remove and install with.
Be sure to coat very lightly, the threads...with silver (aluminum nickle silica based) antisieze compaound. Permatex silver works fine. Ray

Thank you all for all the advice. Now I shall beging the task of getting a lonh 13mm socket and modifying it

Just think you get to play with the grinder and the drommel, sparks; sweeet! Just trying to keep you positive about her! I think once you get these quirk out you're gonna like the L-jet. I have the D-jet but for some reason just like the L-jet setup? bill

Willy, I had the D jet for 8 yrs and started knowing nothing about and the more I knew, the more I liked it. Its simple and has a few feedback loops. The L jet is a complete new teritory to me and I can't judge now untill I understand it first, But I sure hate that learning curve crap, I guess age is getting to me . Hey, if you need any help understanding the D jet, I can probably of some help someday.

Hey we're back!, I've just about had it with that head temp sensor. A brief recap; motor starts, runs ~1min, then dies. On the "other" list it was agreed that its probably this sensor. So I went ahead and get a deep 13mm 2.5" long socket and decided that I wont modify it till I have removed the old sensor.....figured it might be seized and the full strength of the socket might be needed. Its pretty crowded down there, so I cut the wire 1/2" above the sensor (in case the sensor is good) slip the socket over it with the extension......now the runner is sorta in the way and deflects the extension a tad......I don't mind and proceed to untorque...well, a half a turn and its tightening!!! My conclusion is that the slant at which I am driving the sensor is causing it to bind. So back to the store and get me a "shorter" 1.5" long socket......no good, wire sticking out. Question is; do I have to remove the runners to get to that frikken sensor? I know I think it was vwbill who had done it before....Bill, do you remember what size socket you used and how you did it?

Id remove the injectors and fuel rail on the 3/4 side as one unit and then remove the sensor, thats just me.

Yup, and its gonna be me too. Off to get a new intake gasket

Hey, yeah I think I did have to remove the intake to get to it...! That was when I first was working on the motor in the car. It was alot easier when I had the motor out! I think sometimes its just better to just pull the motor and do all the stuff if you can. I guess that's because they are 31 years old now,lol! Sorry its been such a pain! This time Im gonna pull the motor and do all that I can the first time! lap those cylinders,lol!
Good luck! bill

Be patient. You can do this with the intake in. I use a craftsman deep well 6 point socket with a notch cut in about halfway up. Then....here is the key.....grind the socket down about 3/8-1/2 inch in length. This way,...the sensor does not receed into the socket. It take a while to get it threaded straight. Do not cross thread it.

Unless you have a factory crimper and terminals...once you cut the wire.,..the sensor is trash. Ray