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Be sure that when you replace the sensor...you put anti-sieze compund on the threads...lightly. This will prevent that in the future. Ray

So, you set the notch to the TDC mark not the timing line? When you adjusted the number one, the number two was exhausting? I did that and so I guess I was on the wrong stroke? I think DB or someone told me to check the number two was exhausting since I guess the firing order is 1432. Not trying to seem like you dont know how to set the valves but it got me some how,lol! Hey, do you guys think he could heat the threaded part of the sensor after making a wedge spot for a screw extractor and still get the threads out or would that still leave possible crude or just drill it out and hand tap it or heli type it or drill close and get the new one to start? I know he would have to pull the intake and tin! Why does he need to pull the head? What a pain! Bill

Stop it! You guys are making valve adjustment waaaaaay harder than it has to be. Othere than for reference to what cylinder pair you are working with....1 and 3 or 2 and 4...the dizzy has nothing to do with valve adjustment. Ignore it.

Remember what the firing order is on this engine? Its 1 4 3 2 . Guess what that is backward?.....1 2 3 4 !. So...first thing you do....is remove the fan from the car. With a proctractor and straight edge......based from teh factory "0" mark.....put three more marks...at 90 degree intervals. Be accurate.
Once the fan is installed.....starting with the dizzy rotor pointing at number one notch (and the last time you need to look at it during this).....line up the crank pully at "0" in teh notch on the fan housing.

YOU ARE TURNING THE ENGINE SO THE ROTOR TURNS COUNTERCLOCKWISE!!!! So the second cylinder you will adjust after number 1....is number 2.

NOW...this is top dead center on number 1. Adjust both intake and exhaust at once. Turn 90 degrees to the next mark on your pulley....so the rotor turns counter clockwise. The rotor...for reference will now be pointing to number 2. It will be TDC on number 2....so adjust intake and exhaust together. Turn 90 degrees more...counter clockwise. You will be at "0" in the fan housing notch....but you will be on number 3 TDC. Adjust both valves at once. Turn 90 degrees more counter clockwise. You will be on number 4 TDC. Adjust both valves at once.

Simple.....no screwing around hopping from cylinder to cylinder...no errors. 20 minutes...tops. Ray

Last time I checked the Type 4 was a four stroke engine, a full cycle takes 720 degrees. One fourth of that is 180 degrees, you just need only two marks on the fan, one at TDC for #1 and one 180 degrees opposite. There is no need to pull the fan to put the second mark on. Park the car on the level and then turn the engine to line up the TDC mark. Use a carpenters tri-square to drop a plumb line from the TDC mark down to the other side of the fan and mark the fan with a pencil. Once you have rotated the pencil mark up to the top, permanently mark it with paint or notch it with a chisel. With care you can get within +/- 5 degrees with this method which is plenty good enough for adjusting the valves. Of course if you've got the engine out and the fan off you might as well mark it as accurately as you can.

Yep.... ...sorry....you are 100% correct. But the concept is still correct. This is in many books. The mix-up...is that I use 4 marks on mine. This is because I set my valves at TDC of teh piston..to get them just a hair closer. This is only significant...when you realize that none of the methods listed here....put you exactly at either piston TDC or teh full bottom of the base circle...but all...give you what you need ...that being approximately .006" of slack at teh top of piston TDC. I recommend checking your valves hot. Ray

Ray,

I thought that maybe you had been hiding something from us, like you had bolted two T4's together end to end to make an eight cylinder. Would that be a Type 8?