Page 2 of 2

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:14 am
by raygreenwood
I have some things....that may be worth experimenting with. Let me explain.
Three years ago....a Beck Arnley dealer...friend of mine.....called me and gifted me with a 24"x 24" x24"...cardboard box...of obsolete, but brand new Bosch parts.
It included among other things, 2 brand new D-jet pumps in box, 3 MPS's mostly early type 3, a about 20 D and L-jet TPS...and about 40 auxiliary air regs of varieties that are common to Ljet, CIS, D-jet and a few others.....including numerous watercooled AAR's.

Its these AAR's that are unique. They are designed to be oil or water cooled. They have a bulb on the end...that protrudes into either water or oil jacket. They are large bore...like teh body is 2"diameter. Many went on Mercedes, BMW and Renault.

Think of this. Take the hose coupling section loose. Now you have what is essentially a rotating barrel valve. If you put a lever on that....by adjusting the length of the lever, you can also adjust the stroke it may make when attached to ...say ..a wire. You can also by this method, multiply the leverage. Get the drift?

Or you can put a cheap nylon gear on the end of the rotating barrel valve...driving a smaller gear. If you would like to think about one of these or look at one. I will look at some part numbers...and I could possibly e-mail a picture to someone. Ray

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 3:55 pm
by MGVWfan
Yeah, another possibility, if the thermostatic element can stand up to the 15 or so pound pull from the flap opening spring. Interesting, I've seen those oil heated AARs on old Benzes in the P&P yard...might be worth a look.

Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 6:47 am
by raygreenwood
Think about the length of the lever. Small leverage from the metallic element can easily be converted to large leverage. It may also be worth running a longer wire...through a multiple wrap pully or capstan...instead of that single wheel. That will also generate leverage. Ray

Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2005 6:07 pm
by wildthings
The easiest way I can think of to do this off hand is to use a vacuum solenoid like the one off of a cruise control like Albert suggested along with a heat sensing vaccum valve like the one VW and nearly everyone else used back in the '70s to open the preheat flapper on the air cleaner. The VW vacuum valve can be taken apart and cleaned and is even somewhat temperature adjustable. I would think that with a little ingenuity one could easily build a working set up on a Saturday afternoon.

I pride myself in buying the last available Type 4 thermostat that showed up on VW's computer system about 1 1/2 years ago. Heck the price wasn't even that bad compared to other sources.

thermostat

Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2005 4:44 am
by albert
hi, wildthings,, i got a new idée with betther moovement , if we install a wiper motor on the air flap door , we ajust the lenth on the wiper arm for exact moovement for the 412 flaps door and we put one électric thermostat with 2 différent deg.fr. on head motor (or base ) examp. with one contact (on )onder 100d.f. and one contact on at 150d.f. ( the thermostat deg.f. are only for example ) i need to find the most exact thermostat . and wend the motor temp. is at 100d.f he start the wiper motor for to close the damper and the 150 d.f. for to open the damper and if we install the exact randge thermostat . the damper close and open with the motor heat and you ajust the wiper arm stop swith for full open or full close damper door , i thing with that we can make the exact play randge for the door flap,

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 3:59 am
by raygreenwood
Yes!....right on albert! By the way, the standard late model type 1 wiper motor....is used in numerous places in my industry. Can't beleive Iforgot about that. It is used in film developers as a transport motor...and in UV exposure devices to open lamp shutters. They are made by SWF...and some even have a 111 part number prefix. They should work well with proper switching and sealing. Ray

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:31 pm
by MGVWfan
Well...the only problem I have with a worm-drive motor is that it's not "fail-safe", that is, if the motor jams up, the cooling system stays in low-flow mode. I like the vacuum motor idea better, cruise control servos are designed to be "fail-safe" just like we need for this application.

thermostat

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 2:07 pm
by albert
hello, i thing if we use only the cruse controle vaccum diaphram , only connected on the 412 air flow vacuum with small tubing , wend the motor go on hi spead the vaccuum open the damper and wend it is on low spead , hidle , he close the damper ,,