Yeah, I thought you had mentioned in another post about using 2 regulators, but using one near the pump (to extend life) sounds pretty interesting, and a novel way of keeping old parts going.
Thanks again for all your help.D-Jet wiring diagram
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Bobnotch
- Posts: 1157
- Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:01 am
Ok, Thanks Ray. I only mentioned the check valve, due to a guy on the t-3 list having had one fail. In his case the pump would pump, but not build any pressure. He found that the little flapper valve inside had cracked / split / worn out, and was allowing fuel to bypass (he tore it down and fixed it). Prior to that, the car had been running great, so he knew he had a problem.
Yeah, I thought you had mentioned in another post about using 2 regulators, but using one near the pump (to extend life) sounds pretty interesting, and a novel way of keeping old parts going. Thanks again for all your help.
Yeah, I thought you had mentioned in another post about using 2 regulators, but using one near the pump (to extend life) sounds pretty interesting, and a novel way of keeping old parts going.
Thanks again for all your help.-
raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
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Bobnotch
- Posts: 1157
- Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:01 am
Well, I did finally get the car to run. Turns out I had a leaking injector (kept dripping after the pump was shut off), so it would bleed off fuel pressure too quickly. Also found the other 3 injectors weren't squirting. I replaced all 4, then used a t-3 dizzy to trigger the injectors (with the coil wire off (no 12 v to the coil)), and watched the spray patterns of each injector as I had to go thru a few of them before I found 4 good ones. 
Once I had good spray, and good injectors, the system would hold 18 to 22 psi for over an hour after the pump was shut off. I then fired up the engine, but couldn't get the idle down to 1000 or less (was running between 1500 to 2000 rpm), so I changed the AAR, and that got it way down (500 to 600 rpms). I then opened up the plug I had in the breather (I used a 3mm hole for consistant pcv) and now the idle came back up to 900 and was steady. Adjusting the idle speed, would either raise it up to 1100 or lower it to 800rpm. I'm still not happy with the engine though, as I think I've got a bad hydro lifter, that I can't get quiet. It's bothering me, but the engine seems strong and otherwise healthy. All in all, a really good learning experience. Thanks for all the help, and if I ever get the lifter issue resolved, I'll be ready for road testing (and fine tuning of the MPS), as there's still way too much salt on the roads for my taste. 
Once I had good spray, and good injectors, the system would hold 18 to 22 psi for over an hour after the pump was shut off. I then fired up the engine, but couldn't get the idle down to 1000 or less (was running between 1500 to 2000 rpm), so I changed the AAR, and that got it way down (500 to 600 rpms). I then opened up the plug I had in the breather (I used a 3mm hole for consistant pcv) and now the idle came back up to 900 and was steady. Adjusting the idle speed, would either raise it up to 1100 or lower it to 800rpm. I'm still not happy with the engine though, as I think I've got a bad hydro lifter, that I can't get quiet. It's bothering me, but the engine seems strong and otherwise healthy. All in all, a really good learning experience. Thanks for all the help, and if I ever get the lifter issue resolved, I'll be ready for road testing (and fine tuning of the MPS), as there's still way too much salt on the roads for my taste.