Central WA Baja

[560]

Tilton would be a really nice setup for the combo... Not trying to push it OR sell it on or for anyone. I would like to have it myself, BUT $$$$$$ is real short right now. (like it is for everyone else I guess)

Mike

[ntsqd]

It is an slightly older version of something like this:
http://www.tiltonracing.com/pdfs/1.pdf
The thing about multi-disc clutches is that each disc's holding power is additive. If one 7.25" disc can hold 200 ft-lbs, then a two disc version can hold 400 ft-lbs without the large increase in flywheel inertia that a single disc capable of 400 ft-lbs would entail.

My concern for your use is that they tend to be "oil-can" clutches, they can't usually be slipped very easily. Since I've not had this clutch in a car I do not know if this is true of this specific clutch or not.

I am into to it $200, but you're very likely looking at needing a custom flywheel to be able to use it. The flywheel that it is mounted to is an unknown engine. Even my ex-Tilton former co-worker had never seen a crank bolt pattern like it has, and none of his ref's listed that particular arrangement. Custom flywheels aren't that uncommon, they just not something that you order off the shelf unless Tilton happens to have one sitting around.

[CentralWAbaja]

Yea, I think I am going to stay with Carls recommendation on this....Yup, I did a little research overnight

Called him already today and asked his opinion? He said with the amount of engines he has out there with his set up he has a hard time recommending anything else.

It's a little cloudy with the new weddle mated to the new 3.7 already and Kennedy's involvement as well....Probably don't need to confuse the issue any more at this point.

Thanks for the offer though.

[Big Dave]

It would be pretty sweet if they had bellhousings for popular engines (subie, ecotec, etc) so you didn't have to use an adapter. That would move the engine 1/2" farther forward.

[CentralWAbaja]

So.... got to have little fun in the shop yesterday...I got to go back into the "storage" side of the shop and dig out a couple boxes that I had not seen in over a year. Kind like Christmas...

Found my rear trailing arms, micro-stub kit,CV's and axles...Understand that all of that stuff was part of the "Original" parts purchase and has not seen light for a long time.

Started to mock up the rear suspension. That just led to the fact that I have no idea what the heck I am doing. Thanks for the help getting me going guys. Sorry for all the simple questions...sure it will not be the last time.




Micro-stub? What is that, exactly? For those of you that know...that is an easy one. And for guys like me who don't/didn't...Well here is the "Anatomy of a micro-stub"







Pull the center cap and the 5 center lugs





And you will remove a well made 5lug to wide 5lug "Adapter plate"




Pull the rotor and you will see that it is a serviceable steel rotor mated to a machined aluminum center.





Separate the stub axle from the hub assembly




Flip the hub over and you have your basic bearing/hub combo (I cant see a part# anywhere) I am sure it is a "Standard" hub of some sort. Looks just like the ones I just replaced in the front of my Dakota a few months ago. Probably out of a Chevy S-10 or something? I am sure somebody out there knows for sure.



Anyway...Never seen it broken down before so I thought I would take a few minutes and do it here.




So on to some other cool stuff that I have no clue how to put together.



I am assuming that it's all good stuff? It was bought originally from Kartek. Wasn't cheap.



Honestly.... I really have no clue on assembly of this stuff. I have read about clocking and such but it never really made sense because I was not ready to do this stuff. Why is there a difference in the inner cage of the CV? Is there an inner or outer side? I see there is a grove in the axle for a snap-ring but none in the box. Are they even used in these situations?




I am sure someone will chime in on this stuff and point me in the right direction.


I moved on to mocking up the arms...again having no idea how..thanks for the help there guys.





I also know that the time has come to move the chassis back on the table so I can cycle the rear suspension...so that is the next task.

[ntsqd]

Dim memory says that though it's very similar, the original unit bearing application isn't the S-10 4WD, though it is a GM front driver. Can probably find the application on rdc as I seem to recall a thread on this.

[Leatherneck]

Here I thought you were going with the Plywood pan. Whatcha get done tonight?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"You were born to win, but to be a winner, you must plan to win, prepare to win, and expect to win"

But most of all... you must participate in order to win. Only politicians win by doing nothing.

[CentralWAbaja]

Kind of a boring update...just got the table modified and the cage moved to the back so I can cycle the rear suspension.



Up until this point the cage has been held down to the 1x2 frame with screwed down clamps to hold everything square and flat while tacking things together.The reason for the 1x2 frame was to get the cage up 3/4" because of the shape of the underside tunnel and rear "horns" they stick down a little...actually exactly 3/4" on the horns. so it was a way of establishing a bottom plane



From this point forward the cage will get clamped and tack welded to this 1-1/2x1-1/2 x 3/16" steel frame that has been bolted to the steel cross members of the table as well as the perimeter where applicable. Hopefully that will hold everything square and flat for final weld out of the cage.







Took the better part the weekend to do this....twice The 1x2 frame was well thought out and the first attempt at the steel version...well lets just say I didn't take any pictures of that one. It was right at the end of the day yesterday when I set the cage back down I realized I had forgot about that tunnel and frame horn thing.

[Busk]

just out of curiosity.... why not ditch the frame horns and stock pivots? the stock horns are great for using a vw trans or even a 10 degree mount but for using a big motor and trans doing a tube structure and placing everthing exactly where you want it seems like it would be a lot easier. another tip... a peice a of 2" tubing slides right into the stock torsion housing to stiffen it up

[CentralWAbaja]

Believe me.... once I actually see the trans and start thinking about placement that may still happen.

Call it evolution if you like. This thing never even started out to be a full tube car.

Now it's a matter of principle. Weddle says that I will be the first that they know of, to put one of these in the stock housing...besides there are guys here that wanna see me do it so the will know what to expect when the time comes for their trans upgrade.

Really the whole reason was that I was more concerned about figuring the rear geometry than anything else when this all started. I just have never messed with an IRS at all. And as it turns out...I bolted the arms on over the weekend and it bolted up real nice...the first time. So...I guess that is the real reason.

[Busk]

ya i know the feeling, i never intended for my car to be the car that it is today. thanks for the answer, i was just curious more than anything else. Keep up the great work

[CentralWAbaja]

FRUSTRATION.....Webster has it's definition...here is mine

After a full week.... the freight company I hired to transport my brand new engine from Yuma AZ to Central Washington State....could not tell me where it is Yup lost in transit

Seems that the AZ courier that was supposed to pick it up last Monday, did not actually pick it up until Wednesday. It was still in Phoenix on Friday.

Monday I get a quick phone call from different Washington based freight co. The girl asked why she had a note to leave this engine on their Cle Elum dock (that's my town) I answered that it was to be left at the Peninsula freight dock in Cle Elum (The only dock) as that is why I hired them because they have a dock here. She replied OK thanks and hung up. So I was expecting a call Tuesday from the locals telling me it was here....no call.

I called my guys yesterday about 3:00 in the afternoon...and they could not tell me where it was. Somehow the AZ guys handed it off to the wrong company.... 4 hours worth of phone calls later.... I got to the bottom of it. The motor was "back" in LA and headed back to Phoenix.

The damn motor will have about 10k miles on it by the time I get it. Fortunately those will all be in the back of a semi. Got the call this morning...It's back in Phoenix ...should be here next Monday a full 2 weeks.... when they said it would take 3 or 4 days.

And the Transaxle?.... Don't even get me started It's finally coming also...be here Friday via the "Brown Truck"

[david58]

The damn motor will have about 10k miles on it by the time I get it.

Well then you should be able to just hang it on the tranny and run the be jezus out of it it is already broke in. Probably over due for a oil change though.
EDIT: They did what? They don't know when? They don't know where? AND are still charging you for it?

[Leatherneck]

All good things come to those that wait and wait and wait. Sorry to hear about that. Can't wait to see those two together and installed.