Before there ever was a CentralWAbaja

[JUSSUMGUY]

I think the easiest way is a pan swap. How good are the floors in the current pan on the car? The replacement pan you have needs floors if I remember correctly. Possibly could use the floors from the existing pan if they are good. Lots of labor but not much money.
Alternatively, get new floors for the replacement pan......... or just use some diamond plate to make new floors. Is any sort of body lift planned?
If a torsion adjuster is in the mix I would just save the money and put it towards coilovers. I would also save the money and not get internal bypass on the coilovers. Just my .02 cents

[CentralWAbaja]

All good input Richard. We still have some disassembly to do on both really then I will post more pics. In a nutshell both sets floor pans are shot. The one in the car has a much cleaner tunnel. The 69 has a lot of rust but have not dug in there to see how bad it really is but its there and flaky. There are a couple of plasma cut flaps that somebody peeled it open and reached whatever they wanted and pushed it back in. Just mostly things to consider. We have no real need for VW pans as the seats no longer mount off them. Yes there is a body lift in play and that will stay. Homemade square tube style but its been 21+ years and I just cant remember back that far the thickness We will get to that part for sure. Looking a lot at Eds set up right now as to his cage lift ect.

[CentralWAbaja]

So when your +1 arms show up and seem to be a bit bigger than a +1 arm.....Then what?



Go big or go home?

[no1clyde]

Nice arms, you should use them I think.


Ed

[mlrailguy]

go with them

[JUSSUMGUY]

Use them.

[dustymojave]

As the snowball rolls...

One major factor in making sure that cracked torsion housing tube does NOT happen again would be to connect the beam to the torsion housing. Then triangulate the connection to the torsion housing.

[CentralWAbaja]

Well it looks as though Dave built us some 3x3's. I think we probably are going to go with them but it will drive the bus a little so to speak now as far as design for the rest of the car. Doesn't really match up well with the +1 front arms we have. And we really wanted to keep the car small....hmm We can send them back to him and he will build us the right ones also....

[Steve Arndt]

Who is Dave? Does he built the Avery's arms and the Precision Alloy stuff?

[JUSSUMGUY]

AFAIK yes. He also built the arms on my car.
If you already have the axles to run the +1 arms with whatever trans you are planning to use i'd probably send them back

[CentralWAbaja]

He is the one that does the Avery's stuff. I just deal with him direct as I did for the arms on my car.

I do have a full set of rear axle assemblies coming. Thing stubs, T-4 joints and axles all from a 1600 car with a bus box. So yeah those axles should work with what I ordered however they were just part of the package and my luck will be that I would end up still having to deal with axles in the end.

[mlrailguy]

Seems like I read in Blind Chicken Racing's info on length of axles needed for the 3 x3's

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Try the Sway A W!ay site also. I think that the had a chart also but it was many years ago that I used it so it may not be there now.

[CentralWAbaja]

Figuring out the axles will simple measuring once ready. But with that said yes I have axles that should work with the +1 arms we ordered coming. The biggest thing is that if I was going to do 3x3's I would have for sure done away with stock pivots and ended up with better suspension geometry.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Isn't that always the way. I've got a lot of decisions to make too when we get back home today after being gone for over 3 mos.

Lee