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nice! thats some motor!

andy198712 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 16, 2018 1:58 am nice! thats some motor!

This year with a lot more fuel pump, better heads, 2,2x bigger injectors and 4x the intercooler core volume

Can turn the wick up with enough fuel

It started!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lXsk0IxKj4&app=desktop

Played a little with the tune up on idle yesterday. with 0,75ms opening time on the injectors (on 1 of 2 Bosch 044 pumps) idle is pretty stable at 12.1-12.3. I might try even shorter opening.

Fuel pressure was down to 40is psi, so need to bump that up to 45 before dyno.



Tried to clean the PVC water lines.. "full" of white gunk. Did not want that in the new IC! Dishwasher soap in the tank, and sirculated the water for 30minutes or so. Got a bit better, but I did have to clean out the watertank also.. I think I need to coat it on the inside with something. Any suggestions?


Need to redo the exhaust bandage on the #3 j-pipe. Several years of oil from the rockers would not burn off. Easy enough to do. I think I'm almost done before dyno. Except perhaps shorten the clutch lever on the gearbox. A bit hard to figure out if it works or not alone in the garage.

Why are you wanting to shorten the clutch lever? Longer lever makes it much nicer to drive.

Are you running antifreeze in your intercooler system? Maybe what you're seeing is just aluminium oxide from using straight water or some weird electrolysis.

Because I run a hydraulic setup. And I can't get enough travel on a normal lever to disengage the clutch (at least on the last gearbox). So I need to have the car running, and test the gears on stands with a buddy trying to see if the wheels (engine) is free. I have some slack on the lever to the throw out bearing now, so hopefully I can run it like this.

Plain water. Antifreeze with glykol is not allowed on the track, and I use ice in the tank, so eventually it will be just water again..

So what do water-cooled cars run in their radiators? Needs some sort of inhibitor in there

They are suppose to run water or some sort of glykol-free anti freeze.

I've had a few trips around the block. It feels STRONG. Looks like the WG spring is a 1,2 bar / 17-18psi spring.

Needs to take a bit fuel out at the higher rpms, and add some fuel at the tip in. And then turn boost up to 2,1-2,2 bars / 30-32 psi.


But not on the street..


Check the valves, and I'm ready for dyno on Monday!

Good luck at the dyno!

MarioVelotta wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:19 pm Good luck at the dyno!

Thanks!

Now with 2x Bosch 044 pumps and 2200cc injectors, I can finally tune fuel without going to 100%DC. Might bump ignition over 19 degrees also

I`m just glad I dont have to sit in the passenger seat doing the mapping. It felt a bit risky going sideways on the narrow roads @ 105 mph when the boost kicked in The engine is running pig fat and with a very safe ignition setting so there is a lot more in there just by leaning it out and trying a bit more ignition before you turn up the boost.

If only the picture implementation worked without having to spend a lot of time downsizing I would have shared some pictures with the rest of you from the passenger seat.

Good luck on Monday!

-K-

105mph?? No no, we were not near that... Theoretically we did 101 mph

But yeah, it's getting too fast and too brutal to use it on the streets above a few % throttle input.


I need to get some "OHHH poop" handles on the new car

Bahaha! Have you considered turning it into a drift car with all that tyre spin?

petew wrote: ↑Sat Aug 04, 2018 10:02 pm Bahaha! Have you considered turning it into a drift car with all that tyre spin?

Nah, engine and trans will go into the new car I’m starting on this fall.

Narrowed and raised rear etc. Should get some meat under the rear fenders also