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Wow Pete, Great to hear has been way too long.
Please keep us updated.
Take Care
Kenric

Hey Pete, Good to hear from you, Finally Cheers,Mike

Pete!

I think I need to come back and muck up with you guys more often. I know I'm a sell out, but I don't care.

Either do we!

Excellent car choice, glad to hear all are well.

Is it worth preserving the original motor and trans and swapping in something more modern//common? Like a 2JZGTE?

I have personally become a fan of a good automatic, at least the vw 090 seems to be bulletproof, and can be built to take ludicrous power if needed.
Sitting in traffic also makes you a fan after awhile.

Piledriver wrote: ↑Wed Nov 10, 2021 11:14 am Excellent car choice, glad to hear all are well.

Is it worth preserving the original motor and trans and swapping in something more modern//common? Like a 2JZGTE?

I have personally become a fan of a good automatic, at least the vw 090 seems to be bulletproof, and can be built to take ludicrous power if needed.
Sitting in traffic also makes you a fan after awhile.

Fortunately, the OG motor is long gone and the L18 (1770cc) is a great unit. I've got a Datsun Violet 5 speed and a Subaru R180 LSD. Great for circle work.

Now that the EFI is working, I might even develop turbo setup for it. A 2J would be awesome, but would involve cutting the firewall (a local no no) and rear mounted radiator (I'd rather not). Lots of people have done SR20DET swaps, but if I have to swap, I'd prefer a Honda K24... However, that's a LOT of sump surgery. So for now 67rwhp (you read that right) will do. But I do have a race L18 ready in storage.

Alright, so let the dumb questions start again. (Sorry it's not ACVW). I'm trying to tune for economy like you suggest Piledriver. Here are my AFR and Spark table. Apparently the Nissan L18 does a max 36deg advance (with a dizzy/carbs). Are these tables too radical? Should the 17AFR region transition more smoothly? Thoughts?

With a water cooled engine, keeping the cht down is not a concern...
Some engines may not run at 17:1 without missing like crazy.

Gotta find what the engine wants.

Piledriver wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 2:21 pm With a water cooled engine, keeping the cht down is not a concern...
Some engines may not run at 17:1 without missing like crazy.

Gotta find what the engine wants.

I gather gentle experiments on flat ground is the way to do that?

A fast wbo2 is really helpful, but you can feel it when it starts falling down//missing.
...again, may not benefit you with a watercooled motor, i did it to get cht/egt down in 35c+ weather.
I got slightly better economy running a bit rich.

HI peops, I thought your MS ninjitsu might be able to help me. I'm having an issue with intermittent drop outs in the crank signal. I have a brand new sensor, have checked the connector and I have a 10k lift resistor in the harness. I'm having trouble trying to sort out what might be causing it. Any thoughts? Seems to happen when it warms up.

An actual msq and brief log showing the issue are really handy... zip them up together and post.
Knowing your exact setup helps, the msq tells all ...usually.

I pretty much now hate on vr sensors...even though I have successfully used them in several setups... Hall sensors are a lot easier to deal with, and tend to be much more reliable for diy setups, they aren't inherently noisy, or have a huge voltage range vs rpm and don't require special circuitry to work at all.

Zombie thread!!! Roooorrrh... brains!!!

I'm still messing around with things. I finally got a working Spartan II wideband on the car after 14point7 very kindly sent me a new one. The old one was sending weird values to the ECU. So tuning is super easy now. Thanks to Alan To for fixing me up. I've also got a bosch idle valve on it now...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qOwbmKavIw

Had the car out last weekend with my son at a motorkhana and he loved it. Here's one of my old friends working his magic in the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkaRxur7HFo

I should say that in the last year or so I've done a bunch of little upgrades, like rear springs. The back springs are a rally spring Stewart Wilkins fixed me up with and the car is handling a lot better on the throttle. Before, the back end was much softer.
It was rocking around and wallowing a lot more even thought I'd cut 40mm out of the red springs. At the last motorkhana it was so soft that the body roll threw my left leg off the clutch! Besides all that I've had a few fuel system issues. Fuel filler, FPR gauge leaking. They seem to be sorted now, but these cars always smell like fuel. It's a lot better than it was. I was going to try and add a turbo but NSW rego is such a pain and none of the inspectors want to talk to me. Hmmm.

Hey Pete, Glad you are still checking in,, Cheers,Mike