Did some more playing around with the cage and truss bar design I am playing with.
The truss bar setup, since I am running a V6 tied to a bus trans is a lot of weight in the rear of the buggy. The trans arms are welded but they can still flex hence the truss/kaffer bars would be needed. I personally don't think the commercial ones hoopup are strong enough especially since they use the upper shock eye for connection hence, I am trying something else.
The fuel tank is also based partly on the rectangular tube I have tacked in place and the trans mount arms are tied to it.
I set this back up and if I tie the seat belt arms to it they are a bit higher than the mount needs to be. Some manure-ing around (good word for this) still will have to be done plus the finishing the mounting of the bar between the shock towers needs to be done.
(I've posted these before)
Normally the brace arms for the rear of the rear hoop would go to either where the bend on the cage is or to the cross-piece of the rear cage hoop. I also want to tie a connection to the front cage hoop which has to go below the seat side as it is very close to the body so I can spread some loads around but they can't be as much as I would want them to be due to the pedal assys and clearance under the hood... mostly the very low hood problem, too little clearance to connect to the front beam area.
Lee
Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Oops, boy have I goofed!
I bought these seats back sometime maybe in the early 90s, as I remember, and they were about all that was out there at the time.
I'm still futzing around with the cage so yesterday; I didn't like the distance from the top of the seats to the bend in the mocked-up cage rear hoop (the tape on the bend is where the top of my head would be) so I had my wife put a piece of tape about where the top of my head would be on the hoop. While it would be OK for me but not for the tallest in the group who is (now) about 6 inches taller than me.
You start shrinking sometime between 30 and 40 years of age (depending on where you look at for the info) and I have now shrunk 2 1/2 inches. The top of the seat sits about where the harness should come into the seat area, hence about even with my shoulders where the harness should come in at.
Not sure of what I am going to do about it. I put the turning brakes together along with the shifter and they (thank goodness) are still OK. The seat height off the floor I good and the passenger seat tips to a good position for access behind it.
I moved the mount for the passenger side of the hoop over to be even with where the hoop is for the driver's side and there is a problem as the pan half for that side is different as far as the forming of the foot rest is (never had measured that out as it looked OK to me (remember to measure closer than I have and I should know better!!!!!!!!!!!!). I'm going to have to look into why it wants the mount to raise higher than the top of the body lift. It might be OK in the long run but the seam in the body lift has to be taken into consideration too.
Lee
I bought these seats back sometime maybe in the early 90s, as I remember, and they were about all that was out there at the time.
I'm still futzing around with the cage so yesterday; I didn't like the distance from the top of the seats to the bend in the mocked-up cage rear hoop (the tape on the bend is where the top of my head would be) so I had my wife put a piece of tape about where the top of my head would be on the hoop. While it would be OK for me but not for the tallest in the group who is (now) about 6 inches taller than me.
You start shrinking sometime between 30 and 40 years of age (depending on where you look at for the info) and I have now shrunk 2 1/2 inches. The top of the seat sits about where the harness should come into the seat area, hence about even with my shoulders where the harness should come in at.
Not sure of what I am going to do about it. I put the turning brakes together along with the shifter and they (thank goodness) are still OK. The seat height off the floor I good and the passenger seat tips to a good position for access behind it.
I moved the mount for the passenger side of the hoop over to be even with where the hoop is for the driver's side and there is a problem as the pan half for that side is different as far as the forming of the foot rest is (never had measured that out as it looked OK to me (remember to measure closer than I have and I should know better!!!!!!!!!!!!). I'm going to have to look into why it wants the mount to raise higher than the top of the body lift. It might be OK in the long run but the seam in the body lift has to be taken into consideration too.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
I haven't posted much about the buggy lately as too much other stuff has been going on. Medical things for my wife, stepdaughter and minor stuff for me along with maintaining the house and our "dune area" (to say).
The "shape following tool" is a 6" long tool and it was placed on the bottom floor of the pan and the top of it was just level with the top of the 3" body lift. The floor at the bottom is was based off from is not flat but tapers down some just as the mounting bracket will need to be, I just haven't measured that area and shape yet but I do know that the right side of the pan and the left side of the pan are not the same as far a shape goes and that will also effect the location of the rear cage hoop.
I worked as a "Tech" (et al For those who don't know: And others ('et al.' is used as an abbreviation of 'et alii' (masculine plural) or 'et aliae' (feminine plural) or 'et alia' (neuter plural) when referring to a number of people) • the data reported by Smith et al. • the data reported by Smith et al. ) in engineering (aircraft) and while I did some primary engineering design it was mostly secondary design where I spent most of my time. One of the things I wasn't really allowed to do structural loading "in shear" but shear with hard undersurface loading was usually OK. That is why I am "hard headed" about attaching things that are protecting people or who's strength is very important (the end of this) in shear only.
The rectangular seamed tube here is a 1/8th inch wall 3 X 4 inch tube. The seam is in the center which also will be important in the design but the real area where this is important is in the 3" body lift as the needed 4 bolts are going through the cage mount, the body lift and the bracket for the "crash bar" under the front fender will have to be above and below the seam in the body lift.
Again, like the cage the side bars should do some protecting of the person's inside the buggy. From what I heard of this 4th of July on the dunes there was a lot of not paying attention and going as fast as one can in tight 2 way traffic areas. Things don't usually change for the better but do for the worse!
Lee
The "shape following tool" is a 6" long tool and it was placed on the bottom floor of the pan and the top of it was just level with the top of the 3" body lift. The floor at the bottom is was based off from is not flat but tapers down some just as the mounting bracket will need to be, I just haven't measured that area and shape yet but I do know that the right side of the pan and the left side of the pan are not the same as far a shape goes and that will also effect the location of the rear cage hoop.
I worked as a "Tech" (et al For those who don't know: And others ('et al.' is used as an abbreviation of 'et alii' (masculine plural) or 'et aliae' (feminine plural) or 'et alia' (neuter plural) when referring to a number of people) • the data reported by Smith et al. • the data reported by Smith et al. ) in engineering (aircraft) and while I did some primary engineering design it was mostly secondary design where I spent most of my time. One of the things I wasn't really allowed to do structural loading "in shear" but shear with hard undersurface loading was usually OK. That is why I am "hard headed" about attaching things that are protecting people or who's strength is very important (the end of this) in shear only.
The rectangular seamed tube here is a 1/8th inch wall 3 X 4 inch tube. The seam is in the center which also will be important in the design but the real area where this is important is in the 3" body lift as the needed 4 bolts are going through the cage mount, the body lift and the bracket for the "crash bar" under the front fender will have to be above and below the seam in the body lift.
Again, like the cage the side bars should do some protecting of the person's inside the buggy. From what I heard of this 4th of July on the dunes there was a lot of not paying attention and going as fast as one can in tight 2 way traffic areas. Things don't usually change for the better but do for the worse!
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Sorry, still around.
Not too long ago someone posted a picture of a white bug that looked like it had been rolled. The fenders were out of shape and just above the window by the door on the driver's side (I think) the top was pushed in. This was something I used to see on the dunes but usually it was a Baja that had been rolled. Hence one of the reasons for a full cage.
It is the roll over on the side especially to the rear and, especially a rear to front endo (that has almost happened to me) and I have also seen on buggies and Bajas years ago (both are seldom seen on the dunes now days) that I am concerned about as that is where you sit in a bug. The additional weight of the passengers and the trans and engine coming over at speed that I want to design for.
It is interesting on just what happens (distortion wise) to the cage based on what I have seen over the years.
When I was still working in aircraft design, mounting things in shear was usually discouraged or even not allowed as shear needs to be backed up unless there is a secondary reason for the shear. Even the wrong type of fastener or metal thickness can be part of the problem. One of several reasons I want the cage on the floor and backed up by being attached to the body lift.
After seeing the pix (I can't find it for some reason as I forgot to copy it for future reference) it got me started looking a things again.
The mount is just clamped to the body lift right now and the seat is all the way to the rear. The seat back angle sits at about 10° so I clamped the two sides of the clamped together mockup at 10° also.
Again, this is clamped together which it looks rough.
This is me sitting in the chair at its full back position. Not sure exactly what the distance from the top of my head to the top of the cage is (48" off the floor) is but it looks to be a safe distance at least for me. Not sure about the 6'3" person in the group will be.
The mount has to be connected to the body lift as the side bars to protect the car from being run into will be part of the design connected to both hoops via the body lift. There will be one more connection about half way down, again for the side bar and the connection bar to both hoops bridge work to connect to.
Again, the cage mounts (I might do the removal soft connection so the cage can be removed allowing for work to be done at some later time) so that also needs to be considered.
Still thinking about it.
Not too long ago someone posted a picture of a white bug that looked like it had been rolled. The fenders were out of shape and just above the window by the door on the driver's side (I think) the top was pushed in. This was something I used to see on the dunes but usually it was a Baja that had been rolled. Hence one of the reasons for a full cage.
It is the roll over on the side especially to the rear and, especially a rear to front endo (that has almost happened to me) and I have also seen on buggies and Bajas years ago (both are seldom seen on the dunes now days) that I am concerned about as that is where you sit in a bug. The additional weight of the passengers and the trans and engine coming over at speed that I want to design for.
It is interesting on just what happens (distortion wise) to the cage based on what I have seen over the years.
When I was still working in aircraft design, mounting things in shear was usually discouraged or even not allowed as shear needs to be backed up unless there is a secondary reason for the shear. Even the wrong type of fastener or metal thickness can be part of the problem. One of several reasons I want the cage on the floor and backed up by being attached to the body lift.
After seeing the pix (I can't find it for some reason as I forgot to copy it for future reference) it got me started looking a things again.
The mount is just clamped to the body lift right now and the seat is all the way to the rear. The seat back angle sits at about 10° so I clamped the two sides of the clamped together mockup at 10° also.
Again, this is clamped together which it looks rough.
This is me sitting in the chair at its full back position. Not sure exactly what the distance from the top of my head to the top of the cage is (48" off the floor) is but it looks to be a safe distance at least for me. Not sure about the 6'3" person in the group will be.
The mount has to be connected to the body lift as the side bars to protect the car from being run into will be part of the design connected to both hoops via the body lift. There will be one more connection about half way down, again for the side bar and the connection bar to both hoops bridge work to connect to.
Again, the cage mounts (I might do the removal soft connection so the cage can be removed allowing for work to be done at some later time) so that also needs to be considered.
Still thinking about it.
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
While waiting for company to come I got playing with the buggy yesterday. I decided on the mounting of the fuel tank mounts to the "Truss" rectangular tube and tank location and marked the hole mounting hole locations on the upper mount. Later in the evening, while in bed, it dawned on me that the flanges for the clamping mounts for the tank in place were facing the wrong way which would not allow access to them when the body was in place. The tank location area in the body is very narrow so it would not be possible to access to the clamping flange bolts after everything was in place with the body on 
. Part of the "Catch 22" people often miss. (plan ahead!) ( I hope this makes sense)
Guess what, turning both of the clamping brackets around... did not make a difference location wise
. One of those AW$#IT! moments you discover after most everything is bolted in place.
Lee
. Part of the "Catch 22" people often miss. (plan ahead!) ( I hope this makes sense)Guess what, turning both of the clamping brackets around... did not make a difference location wise
. One of those AW$#IT! moments you discover after most everything is bolted in place.Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
After seeing CWB's last post it makes me feel worse that I am not farther along than I am. It is still up on movable jack stands but I do look at is many times and day (as I walk by it) and even move things around and back-in-forth to check fit and function.
The rear hoop mount is still going to be to the floor and also attched to the body lift with bolts going through it for the side crash bar protecting the fenders/running boards from side hits. Since there isn't a top on the car, so to help reduce loading on the cage in case of a roll over or endo the cage has to also attach to the floor of the pan along with doublers' top and bottom (the bottom might just be the spacer that is thicker material than right now) of the rear passenger's depression in the pan (the material is stretched during the bending (stamping?).
The 10° lay back of the bar above the cage's removable mounts will be kept as it is the same angle of the seats allowing the distance from the drivers and passengers heads to be away from it. I still am going to have side bars that will attach to the pan and body lift like a rail would have.
Lee
The rear hoop mount is still going to be to the floor and also attched to the body lift with bolts going through it for the side crash bar protecting the fenders/running boards from side hits. Since there isn't a top on the car, so to help reduce loading on the cage in case of a roll over or endo the cage has to also attach to the floor of the pan along with doublers' top and bottom (the bottom might just be the spacer that is thicker material than right now) of the rear passenger's depression in the pan (the material is stretched during the bending (stamping?).
The 10° lay back of the bar above the cage's removable mounts will be kept as it is the same angle of the seats allowing the distance from the drivers and passengers heads to be away from it. I still am going to have side bars that will attach to the pan and body lift like a rail would have.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
I dood it and made it to 80 years old!
Still working on the black buggy but a couple of my hand tools have disappeared that I need. They were sitting on the driver's seat of the buggy and now have disappeared. I have other tools that would work but not as quickly and easily. Harrumph !
Still playing with the rear cage hoop and how to connect it to both the floor and the body lift for strength. The top of the body's and how the top of it curls in toward the inside not the outside of the body like most of the dune buggy's have. Also, I am not happy about how low on the rear hoop the rear support hits.
Also, the front fenders coming down the buggy's side which is not allowing me to change the shape of the body mount to fit the pan w/body lift correctly. Trying to do something that nothing is designed to fit/work can drive one nuts. Another older pix but you can kind of get an idea of how the front fenders control the body itself.
Lee
Still working on the black buggy but a couple of my hand tools have disappeared that I need. They were sitting on the driver's seat of the buggy and now have disappeared. I have other tools that would work but not as quickly and easily. Harrumph !
Still playing with the rear cage hoop and how to connect it to both the floor and the body lift for strength. The top of the body's and how the top of it curls in toward the inside not the outside of the body like most of the dune buggy's have. Also, I am not happy about how low on the rear hoop the rear support hits.
Also, the front fenders coming down the buggy's side which is not allowing me to change the shape of the body mount to fit the pan w/body lift correctly. Trying to do something that nothing is designed to fit/work can drive one nuts. Another older pix but you can kind of get an idea of how the front fenders control the body itself.
Lee
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bajaherbie
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Happy Birthday!
I'll be 63 in January and we are expecting our first grandchild in 13 days!
Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk
I'll be 63 in January and we are expecting our first grandchild in 13 days!
Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk
Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Thankyou Herb.bajaherbie wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 5:38 am Happy Birthday!
I'll be 63 in January and we are expecting our first grandchild in 13 days!
At 60 you're still qualified as child as you probably can maneuver around easily
. Getting old was fun (kind of anyway) but now the aches and pains plus stiffness slows things down as does the slowness of getting ones vocabulary (the conversation most likely would be over before that "lost word" comes forward 
). Still able to play with the black buggy and ride on the dunes with the blue buggy (got to get the brakes along with the turning brakes blead) and doing maintenance around the house and dune area but just at a slower rate.
Banned from working on the roof which is OK... I guess
You Grandchild's birthday date will be close to my brother's so thanksgiving and his party are most likely going to be huge eat-em-up event!
Thanks again.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Still playing with the cage location.
One thing I forgot about (not completely, but enough to miss something) is the distance from the body's upper flange and the distance needed from it (the flange bends in toward the center of the body (for looks and strength) rather than like most glass buggies whose flanges bend outboard to include the fenders. This buggy also has fenders (also called "Wings" in some countries) that join causing the body not to distort easily at the bottom (doubling up on the body mounting flange) as running boards would have done on older cars (in this body the way the fenders are replaces the running boards and can't be safely (for the body and the person using them) be used hence the need for the side hoop for getting in and out of the buggy.
The bottom of the body is strongly supported by the body lift but there is still the problem of the pan deflection (twisting because of no body with a top to it0 so the cage needs to be moved inboard more than usual. The body is distorted as it was removed from the mold too soon and the long drive cooled the material too quickly allowing it to distort some. Dropping a center finder off the bodies upper flange inner surface has it too far inboard of the bodies mounting flange. I think I need to move the down bars of the rear hoop somewhere between 1/2" and 1" to allow for potential torquing of the pan and body. This makes the mounting area in the footwell of the rear of the pan which, itself, isn't that strong (a lot of radiuses and spherical radiuses that need some support given to the stretched material already thin material (over build maybe but additional protection to the people inside... yes.
My intention was always to attach the cage to the body lift so the side hoop (protection from side hits) for additional mounting of the cage. This and the rear support for the hoop plus my version of a Kaffer Bar.
Lee
One thing I forgot about (not completely, but enough to miss something) is the distance from the body's upper flange and the distance needed from it (the flange bends in toward the center of the body (for looks and strength) rather than like most glass buggies whose flanges bend outboard to include the fenders. This buggy also has fenders (also called "Wings" in some countries) that join causing the body not to distort easily at the bottom (doubling up on the body mounting flange) as running boards would have done on older cars (in this body the way the fenders are replaces the running boards and can't be safely (for the body and the person using them) be used hence the need for the side hoop for getting in and out of the buggy.
The bottom of the body is strongly supported by the body lift but there is still the problem of the pan deflection (twisting because of no body with a top to it0 so the cage needs to be moved inboard more than usual. The body is distorted as it was removed from the mold too soon and the long drive cooled the material too quickly allowing it to distort some. Dropping a center finder off the bodies upper flange inner surface has it too far inboard of the bodies mounting flange. I think I need to move the down bars of the rear hoop somewhere between 1/2" and 1" to allow for potential torquing of the pan and body. This makes the mounting area in the footwell of the rear of the pan which, itself, isn't that strong (a lot of radiuses and spherical radiuses that need some support given to the stretched material already thin material (over build maybe but additional protection to the people inside... yes.
My intention was always to attach the cage to the body lift so the side hoop (protection from side hits) for additional mounting of the cage. This and the rear support for the hoop plus my version of a Kaffer Bar.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
I was reading something here (not about this) but one of the things I forgotten about is that molds, for things like fiberglass bodies or other types of castings, have to have a taper to them so you can get object out of the mold. That answers the question/problems of the top of the buggy body's passenger area is not straight up and down but slightly tapered towards the top as that is how the molded object is formed.
I should have recognized that as some of the work I did in engineering did include vacuum forming Vynal covered AL sheet, so the taper was in the depth part of the design/object . Funny how something so long comes up but later in the object.
Lee
I should have recognized that as some of the work I did in engineering did include vacuum forming Vynal covered AL sheet, so the taper was in the depth part of the design/object
. Funny how something so long comes up but later in the object.Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Still having troubles with my old computer (where all my pix are) and add to that now my laptop is giving me problems. It might be that my old computer has to be replaced as it is now turning itself on and not allowing me to close down plus not completely connecting to the web or it's screen. I've got an appointment (In December) for someone to come over and see just what is going on as all this was fixed as the shop and worked there I then I brought it home, plugged it in here and it went to pot.
Anyway, back to the black buggy- It has to be partly torn down so I can put the body back on so I can mark on the pan (in the rear portion of the pan) where the upper structural body is as far as the rear of the pan is concerned (not sure about the front hoop of the cage as access will be through the cowl where the gauges will be (the above post about the needed angle when something is built in a mold [brain fart])
In the rear I will have to drop my plum bob back down and mark on the rear of the pan just where the vertical location of the side hoop of body sits then I can come back roughly an inch away from the hoop for the rear cage hoop can be. The rear hoop will have to have a 10-degree lay back angle to it to not interfere with the two front seats.
The spacers are still going to be needed and the connection to the body lift on both the inside and the outside for the side crash hoop. The bolt holes will have to be sleaved for structural reasons.
I had done this already but did not mark the spot(s) where the plum bob's point ended up.
We had two weeks of sun and no rain but not it is rain, fog, wind and so forth which is normal for this time of the year. If my neighbor is home and available, I'll try to do it this weekend.
Lee
Anyway, back to the black buggy- It has to be partly torn down so I can put the body back on so I can mark on the pan (in the rear portion of the pan) where the upper structural body is as far as the rear of the pan is concerned (not sure about the front hoop of the cage as access will be through the cowl where the gauges will be (the above post about the needed angle when something is built in a mold
[brain fart])In the rear I will have to drop my plum bob back down and mark on the rear of the pan just where the vertical location of the side hoop of body sits then I can come back roughly an inch away from the hoop for the rear cage hoop can be. The rear hoop will have to have a 10-degree lay back angle to it to not interfere with the two front seats.
The spacers are still going to be needed and the connection to the body lift on both the inside and the outside for the side crash hoop. The bolt holes will have to be sleaved for structural reasons.
I had done this already but did not mark the spot(s) where the plum bob's point ended up.
We had two weeks of sun and no rain but not it is rain, fog, wind and so forth which is normal for this time of the year. If my neighbor is home and available, I'll try to do it this weekend.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Way back when I first started this build, I figured out pretty quickly (when removing the Baja's body) that new floors were going to be necessary. Once I got a good look at the dam(n)age to the floors I was going to just patch some areas at first by the outer rim where the body connects but the thin material was all over the place. I then was going to make my own floors but I soon found out that I had visually missed a lot of things such as the rear of the tunnel area rising up like it does.
When I was going to just patch the small areas of the buggies' pan, I bought a spot welder that, for some reason. I couldn't get it to work so I gave up on it and coiled the power cord and unit together and stored it away.
Currently I am having problems with squirrels getting into my wife's bird feeder and steeling all the food. It is a single rod with an additional 90-degree bend on the bottom to support the post. About 6' up there is a wide bend then a hooked area for the mesh (with door) food to sit in. The squirrels found various ways to get up and into the food container and every time I stopped them one way, but they continued to find ways around my fixes (looking it up, squirrels are considered a very smart species) my fixes. Online the squirrel kits are cones with a dia. of something like 16" dia. I decided to use some of the scrap material I had left over from the attempted pan fix (from the early 90s if I remember correctly) and made a 12" square plate with stiffening flanges on them but... the 1" flanges aren't long enough so I cut some more scrap about 12"" long and 4" wide to bind to the flanges (I hope they are long enough combined with the width of the pan) to keep the squirrels at bay.
To bind them in place I brought out the spot welder and tried to spot weld the additional parts to the flanges.
After doing some re-reading and making some test welds (it actually worked this time) I made a center spot weld, one at each end and then one in-between and it has seemed to work... so far.
So... what did I learn? Read the stickers carefully and more than one time also. On certain uses the spot welds can be good to use but not on everything. I took two pieces of flat stock and made spot welds on them using different times on each weld. Amazing what can and can't be done time wise (the time was limited to 5-seconds then the spot welded shut down.
Stock size also has its limitations to the times of the spot welds also. If you do try the spot welding then get some good information if you can.
Since what I did when I was working in aircraft, the loading I was dealing with did not allow spot welds so no knowledge of them was attained.
(I hope this is readable )
Lee
When I was going to just patch the small areas of the buggies' pan, I bought a spot welder that, for some reason. I couldn't get it to work so I gave up on it and coiled the power cord and unit together and stored it away.
Currently I am having problems with squirrels getting into my wife's bird feeder and steeling all the food. It is a single rod with an additional 90-degree bend on the bottom to support the post. About 6' up there is a wide bend then a hooked area for the mesh (with door) food to sit in. The squirrels found various ways to get up and into the food container and every time I stopped them one way, but they continued to find ways around my fixes (looking it up, squirrels are considered a very smart species) my fixes. Online the squirrel kits are cones with a dia. of something like 16" dia. I decided to use some of the scrap material I had left over from the attempted pan fix (from the early 90s if I remember correctly) and made a 12" square plate with stiffening flanges on them but... the 1" flanges aren't long enough so I cut some more scrap about 12"" long and 4" wide to bind to the flanges (I hope they are long enough combined with the width of the pan) to keep the squirrels at bay.
To bind them in place I brought out the spot welder and tried to spot weld the additional parts to the flanges.
After doing some re-reading and making some test welds (it actually worked this time) I made a center spot weld, one at each end and then one in-between and it has seemed to work... so far.
So... what did I learn? Read the stickers carefully and more than one time also. On certain uses the spot welds can be good to use but not on everything. I took two pieces of flat stock and made spot welds on them using different times on each weld. Amazing what can and can't be done time wise (the time was limited to 5-seconds then the spot welded shut down.
Stock size also has its limitations to the times of the spot welds also. If you do try the spot welding then get some good information if you can.
Since what I did when I was working in aircraft, the loading I was dealing with did not allow spot welds so no knowledge of them was attained.
(I hope this is readable
)Lee
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cbeck
- Posts: 245
- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2015 5:17 pm
Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
This guy with squirrels has too much time on his hands. But it does show the tenacity of the sqirrels. 1.0 and 2.0 are the best.
https://m.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&s ... cle+course
https://m.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&s ... cle+course
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
As I said, I looked them up and squirrels are very smart, but I was also told they do "get even" also.
So far the spot welds have held up. The squirrels so far haven't tried to get up the feeder (or at least I haven't seen signs anyway but... the plate is not mounted securely to the post and can rotate and the plate was rotated somewhat also. Birds landing on its top which could have caused it to rotate but we are keeping track of things as there is one other thing, I can do which requires the spot welder to be used some more.
Its handy to have and fun to use but so far, not that often.
Still working on the black buggy somewhat. After looking at a lot of dune toys, some of them posted here the two tubes going from the rear hoop to the tube I am using for the supporting of the trans mount will not be connected to the rear hoop cage.
I still have to have the side hoops to protect the running boards/fenders. I also will need to FG some strength to the front fenders because of the bouncing around on the dunes.
Lee
So far the spot welds have held up. The squirrels so far haven't tried to get up the feeder (or at least I haven't seen signs anyway but... the plate is not mounted securely to the post and can rotate and the plate was rotated somewhat also. Birds landing on its top which could have caused it to rotate but we are keeping track of things as there is one other thing, I can do which requires the spot welder to be used some more.
Its handy to have and fun to use but so far, not that often.
Still working on the black buggy somewhat. After looking at a lot of dune toys, some of them posted here the two tubes going from the rear hoop to the tube I am using for the supporting of the trans mount will not be connected to the rear hoop cage.
I still have to have the side hoops to protect the running boards/fenders. I also will need to FG some strength to the front fenders because of the bouncing around on the dunes.
Lee