Shoptalkforums.com

I am thinking that welding on this is going to soften the metal.

I used .003 shim aluminium around the pump body(new T1 shadeck) and with a very light coat of 1211 3 bond . so far so good

The shafts press into the gears, they are usually powdered metal gears on really good grade steel shafts.
On the OG pumps the gears are most likely not powdered metal.

You can buy the shaft material by the foot... at least for the schadeks.

I have never measured the stock shaft size. :-{

Just sleeve T1 pump!!! That is what I've done. I have photos, but basically you need to turn down the OD of the pump a little, then machine a sleeve (really tight fit!!!), put the sleeve on with glue and then machine the sleeve to needed OD. Holes needs to be made for inlet and outlet of the pump.Also other modiffication so the T1 pump fit in T4 - you can find info here in forums. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. RTV, O-rings.... complete non sense! Photos are before opening of the holes.

Disc, those images do not work even if you copy and post them into another windoow. Could you share here without all of the extra coding? Thanks, looking forward to seeing this!

Disc, I've seen your modification, it is a very good approach. But I find it a bit difficult to do (I can't find a big chunk of aluminum laying around, I would have to buy a whole 1m or longer rod). I think I will o-ring it and use some RTV around inlet and outlet and install the pump when I close the case halves.
Anyway now I am again on a pause with the project, because I sent the crank, flywheel, PP and pulley for balancing and it will be done beginning of next year. This year was too late due to vacation. I am now working on tins, to sandblast them and paint. Then just a push to put everything together.

I hope I attached the photos...

Excellent, thanks for uploading these!

Nicely done!
That raises the possibility of using the commercially available easy sleeves or a bit of pipe the right dia..
Unfortunately the cost of having a machine shop do something like that would likely make the pump the most expensive part of a motor...
(unless you had a bunch done at once, setup time is the main cost)

Sadly, most folks don't have a lathe out back.

What is the OD on that finished sleeve? Does in match the ID on the case or did you have to bore that out as well?

The OD of the sleeve is the exact OD of my original Type 4 pump.

I just got the crankshaft assembly back from balancing. Initial mesurement was 43g un-balanced, final 1g.
Final assembly can begin!

What oil shall I use for assembly, taking into consideration it will take me some time to finish the build and start it? Normal 10W40 or something thicker? I searched locally and nobody ever heard about "assembly oil" as I find it online...

Usually assembly lube/paste is used rather than oil, can include molybdenum disulfide optionally.
Permatex sells super thick/sticky oil some places sell as cam lube with various brand names.

Lubriplate and permatex have multiple choices, the oldest version of the lubri-plate looks exactly like white lithium grease, because it is.

The point is that I do not have access easily to the stuff you have in the US, like Permatex. I was thinking of a very thick oil, like transmisdion oil (80W90), or some grease. Or order from Amazon or Ebay with some weeks of waiting. These crazy people around here never heard of assembly lube, I guess that nobody cares on an engine rebuild... They just smear some oil and that's it.
Today I test fitted the oil pump ( Schadeck). I filed the drive boss a bit and the idle gear boss (approx. 1mm each), now nothing hits. I had to tap the drive pin inside the gear and same for the idler pin. I think I will take out the oil pump studs from the case, smear some Kuril around the inlet, outlet and around the pump, and fit it when closing the engine case. Then add bolts.
I noticed the pump outlet is very well aligned to the case hole, but the inlet hole is larger than the case suction hole. Is this a problem, shall I bother to port the case hole to the pump hole? I think that the outlet is more critical.
I found all case screws (deposited for almost 10 years and some moves...). Great to have everything in boxes and marked.