Re: Type 1 twin screw supercharger build / 9 yrs later I'm back at it

[Piledriver]

Stock late Vanagon has a 2750 rpm stall, lots of places do custom converter work.
With a blower higher stall may not be needed, a turbo setup might need higher, depending...
Horns come off with a sawzall from underneath, dont think body removal would be required.
Have seen them replaced with CrMo tube versions at wider spacing, although fabbing a subframe might be a better idea.
Bug body not really designed for rear engine end mounts.

[Alexander_Monday]

Stock late Vanagon has a 2750 rpm stall, lots of places do custom converter work.
With a blower higher stall may not be needed, a turbo setup might need higher, depending...
Horns come off with a sawzall from underneath, dont think body removal would be required.
Have seen them replaced with CrMo tube versions at wider spacing, although fabbing a subframe might be a better idea.
Bug body not really designed for rear engine end mounts.

What years of Vannagon would have the 090?

[Piledriver]

Any year, 86+ will have the higher stall converter IIRC.
There are several epic threads on rebuilding them on TOS, and beefing them on VWVortex.
(010 trans in mk1/2/somemk3 golfs, ~same automatic section, different FWD diff setup)
Unfortunatly nobody has posted a shopping list for the Audiguts upgrade. Yet.

Transaxle Engineering still has the 300M input shafts made, (get some of the sealing rings too)
I also picked up a good used 3:21 R&P and qualife diff from him for the suby 3.6L. (diff may end up in the square)
He can probably sell you all the Audi 5000T guts too, and modern friction material is a lot better, as is Dexron 6 and equivalents.. TE also has the manual valve bodies needed to run at ludicrous power (higher pressures)

[Alexander_Monday]

Got to work on it yesterday and found that 2 of the bolts had backed out and the remaining 4 were sheared. Got the sheared ends out reasonably simple, but it was obvious that 2 of them were loose because I had to clean the threads with a tap.

Got 6 new bolts from the last remaining foreign car oriented shop that is on a cash only selling inventory only basis. He is only open Saturday mornings now and said he will probably shut it down totally first of the year. Sad, I have bought a lot of high performance and other VW stuff there for decades. Business just kept dropping off.

While I was there, a local that used to have a transaxle shop and is retired said that he was pretty sure he still had stub axles and flanges to go to type 4 and 930 and possibly CV's in his detached garage.

I could not find my 8mm 12 point for the CV bolts and no one local had one in stock. Have a set of long ones coming from Amazon.

I ordered an engine stand yoke from Type E Motorsports. I searched high and low for a 3 or 4 arm and other than the expensive Porsche one (which the sellers would not verify working with a type 1) this is the one I found.

[Alexander_Monday]

Cleaned up the flange and put some more grease into the CV and installed it with the new bolts torqued to 30 ft-lb instead of 25.
Took one bolt out at a time while the rest were still torqued and using long cotton swabs and mineral spirits cleaned the holes and threads, bolts, locking washers, and surface of the 2 bolt plates where the bolts go and reinstalled each bolt with some blue Loctite on the threads to 30 ft-lb.
I did this because I knew that there was no way I was keeping a little grease from getting there and the swabs confirmed that.
Checked all the other bolts on both sides and they were at least 30ft-lb.
Took it for a quick drive around the block and no unusual noise or vibration.
Not sure why those would have backed out when all the rest were still tight.
Makes me wonder if next time it would be worth the while to drill the bolt heads and safety wire them.
Perhaps Nord-lock wedge washers would be better than the factory ones.

[Piledriver]

I always do my best to make sure absolutely no grease is on the mating faces of the CV & stub, clean and dry.
That high % moly in CV grease is the best extreme pressure lubricant known to man.

[Alexander_Monday]

I tried my best, but laying under it with the minimal separation I had between the flange and the CV even with the wheel hanging at its lowest, I knew I wouldn't be able to keep some grease from getting on the clean surfaces. When I put it together originally it was body off.

[Piledriver]

I cheat, when I built my shop the first thing I bought for it was a 2 post lift.

[Bruce.m]

I put threadloc under the head of bolt too. No idea if it helps but since its very difficult to clean the threads properly, I consider it a backup measure

[Piledriver]

Can't hurt...

[Alexander_Monday]

Have taken several hour or so long jaunts with a few highway onramp runs,
Checked torque between each jaunt and so far still tight.
I did talk with KCR about a transaxle, CV's, etc. and he is supposed to email me what he thinks I need and pricing.
His current build wait time is 3 to 4 weeks.

Since he does not do automatics and I don't have the time or inclination to do one myself, who would be recommended to talk to about one?
I would have to weigh the frame horn alterations I would need to do into the equation, but quick shifts with a manual valve body is appealing.

[Piledriver]

Transaxle Engineering. https://www.transaxleengineering.com/
There's also a guy in Houston area who builds hipo 090s but never got a name.

[Alexander_Monday]

After considering everything I have decided to order a transaxle from KCR.
Here is what he recommended.
I opted for the Quaife diff and the other options he recommended.
(I removed the prices from his email)
Expensive, but the wife said to go for it so I can drive it the way I want.
(I have not launched from a stop for fear of taking something out)

"Nice talking to you the other day. Your project sounds quite fun.
Keeping with a Type 1 style transmission, I recommend starting with my UltraStreet model which includes the following;
3.88 ring and pinion
Weddle 1st and 2nd gear sets
Superdiff (h/d differential)
H/D side cover
Cromoly pinion retianer
Welded 3rd/4th gears
Steel shift forks
A complete rebuild with my race prep

Below is a list of options that I highly recommend due to your hp level ;
Gusseted Aluminum Rhino case
2nd H/D side plate
Weddle 3rd/4th gears (any ratio)
Weddle super H/D differential
OR
Quaife limited slip diff
R.E.M. polishing
Matching aluminum gear carrier ( this is mainly for appearance so all of the external housings match)."

We talked again at length after his email recommendations and ended up with 3.88 R&P, 3.75 1st, 2.25 2nd, 1.44 3rd, 1.04 4th

I almost maxed out the Ford F2VF-12B579 94-95 Mustang Cobra MAF yesterday in 1st gear just before shifting to 2nd.
46°F & 97.4 kPa ambient, 52.5°F MAT, 7125 rpm, 183.3 kPa MAP, 2.232 kg/m3 intake air density, 12.2 AFR, 24.7° spark advance, 79% Ethanol with 4.985 MAF volts.
Duty cycle was 83.5% with 850cc/min injectors so pushing the injectors also.
Went from 17 mph to 37 mph in 1.382 seconds and that was with a jump in AFR that killed power before EGO correction kicked in.
I see what is going on from the VE MAF correction table and am putting more fuel in there before something gives.
You can see the effect of AFR on power and boost.

11-21-2024.jpg

[Alexander_Monday]

I just took it for a spin with the MAF curve and VE table adjusted to see how it did.
Silly Tesla that was on my ass at the start of the onramp tried but didn't stand a chance.

[Alexander_Monday]

Noticed one muffler was low and pulled it up with my foot.
It was obvious that the y behind the collector was cracked beneath the wrap.
Good thing I noticed, it was cracked most of the way around front to back.
Unwrapped enough and welded it and added 1/4 steel triangles on top and bottom.
Also made some muffler support off the bottom exhaust bolts to keep vibration down.
Rewrapped and sprayed it.

Drove a couple hours in and around town.
What is it with these Teslas?
Had one pull up beside me and pump the accelerator.
Don't know how to tell which version it was, but that model Y was quick.
I was barely ahead when I shut it down.