Shoptalkforums.com

JUSSUMGUY wrote:. I have never seen nor heard of a sway a way torsion adjuster failing that was installed correctly. There are some replaceable parts though that can wear.
The original chassis with 560 has one and it is many many years old and still functions properly.
Chinese torsion adjuster is an entirely different matter.

Since I don't know or remember enough about it I have no idea of who made it or how it was installed but I do remember it happening which made me decide not to do it.

Lee

Jps1145 stripped out the splines

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

On his baja, seems like he put in a SAW torsion adjuster. Maybe this is what you remember Lee.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

Herb, i don't remember for sure but sure sounds like it.

If you've ever grabbed onto something spinning you'd expect feel some racking. If you have two things twisting in opposite directions the center/join is going to have absorb the opposing actions possibly in a big way.

Thanks for the good memory Herb.

Lee

But nothing is moving in a center torsion adjuster except when the torsion is actually being adjusted, then the movement is slow and slight. Nothing in the adjuster EVER spins. The adjuster parts and torsion bar ends are still in the housing.I assemble the parts with anti-sieze so they won't rust.

The splines can still strip, or the torsion bar, adjuster screw or adjuster finger can break. But the whole setup is really very durable and rugged.

Now, as to the forward trans mounts...I don't recommend the 10° mount for the front. I like to use a mid-mount. This does not necessarily have to be a plate inserted into the trans with the case machined to fit. I also like to mount the whole bus trans lower in the frame horns so the motor is not substantially tilted. 5° helps rear clearance, but does not cause much fit problem like the 10° does. The mid mount can be made as an external device. They can mount on the outside of the studs or there can be a wrap around with a clamp bolt.

"But nothing is moving in a center torsion adjuster except when the torsion is actually being adjusted, then the movement is slow and slight. Nothing in the adjuster EVER spins. The adjuster parts and torsion bar ends are still in the housing.I assemble the parts with anti-sieze so they won't rust.... "

True but I never said it did. The load (mass?) concentration in the single join (I have never torn a rear torsion tube apart so I don't know if there is a single splined connection or two of them inside the tube) between the two torsion bars is. What I was referring to I guess was oblique on when shortening the description like I did (I have a tendency to think faster than I can talk or write hence gaps in text or discussion when I'm trying to catch up with my thinking).

Try this: If you had your kids at a park and the park had a pair of playground marry-go-rounds the kids ride on placed about a foot or so apart one kid could be on one and the other kid could be on the other. You could grab on to the bars on both and swing the 'go-rounds so they both run in opposite directions (turning so they both rotate in the direction you are facing) like the blades on one of those hand mixers. If you had to stop them at the same time you would get yanked forward between the two marry-go-rounds in the direction of spin. The same would be true when rotating in the opposite the direction you are facing; you'd get thrown in that direction of rotations.

Now, if they the marry-go-rounds were traveling in opposite directions to you and you tried to stop both of them at the same time you would get spun around and the loads would try to tear you apart.

Question: Were the center adjusters designed just for suspension height change, torsion bar repairs or were they designed for hard use off-road usage?

I wouldn't say they were designed for HD off road use (stock) but off roading definitely tests the limits. The SAW stuffing is definitely stronger than stock components..

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

Center torsion adjusters ARE definitely designed for offroad racing. Originally a Sway-A-Way design. Hijacked in more recent years by some other companies.

The stock torsion center is one piece with splines broached all the way through it. That center piece is electro-welded at its ends to the housing tubes.

In the center torsion adjusters, there are 2 separate "fingers", left and right. They are in contact against each other

Thank you Dusty!

I've officially thawed out and reorganized for the garage season.

Making good progress on Rusty. Front end installed, lower cage tubes installed.

Goal is to get ready to get body placed on it to take up less space in garage. Then goal will be cage work.

Slow as usual. Lots of projects going on here.

It would appear that somebody forgot something I repeatedly recommend when welding on torsion beam tubes...Take OUT the bushings and/or bearings!!!!

Those floor tubes meet the beam a long way inboard. Are you planning on adding out-rigger gusset tubes to support the outer ends of the beam? Zac Reish's old race partner Pahl learned the expensive way that beams bend rather easily when the supports are like you have those.

Forgot? No.

Yes I have a plan for the beam.

Thanks.

Looking good tim!

Nice to see Rusty getting some love again!

Since CWA knocked me off the first page 45 minutes after I posted. Here is some progress.
The most time was spent figuring out how to weld 360 degrees around the torsion and still keep as much VW there as possible. When I flip back over I will finish the welding through the tunnel access hole and then rebuild the shifter hole. Clutch and throttle cables stayed untouched after a close call with the sawzall. The rear crossover brake line didn't survive my cut off wheel.