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Wow!

Skillzzzz.

Keep up the good work!

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WOW!!!! This is an amazing build. When I have time I will go back through every page and photo to study the details.

I am currently putting together a much lower budget turbo type 4 and I am most curious about the exhaust ports on your heads. Do you have any pics or details you would mind sharing?

Lo Cash John wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2023 5:04 am WOW!!!! This is an amazing build. When I have time I will go back through every page and photo to study the details.

I am currently putting together a much lower budget turbo type 4 and I am most curious about the exhaust ports on your heads. Do you have any pics or details you would mind sharing?

Sorry for the delay, I was is Austria skiing for a week (and freezing my butt off, -20C on Friday!)
Thanks!
I used 914 type heads so they have an oval exhaust port. I used stainless stubby pipes from TT exhausts here in the UK (Richard is a great guy, helped me no end with his wealth of knowledge and awesome quality parts).
There's also bigger valves, 44x38 , "special turbo spec" heads from Stateside tuning again here in the UK, using I believe AA castings as a base.

So you have basically "stock" 914 oval exhaust ports? Nothing special to improve flow?

Lo Cash John wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 11:57 am So you have basically "stock" 914 oval exhaust ports? Nothing special to improve flow?

Make no mistake, those ports, when flowed properly (i.e. not hogged out) and with just a mild oversize valve like 38mm, flow very well!

Small point to consider.
When a valve lift is below 1.4x it’s diameter the gap around the valve is the flow limiting factor & work done on the seat & each side makes all the difference. When the lift goes above approximately 1.4x then the port is more likely to have an impact so flow biasing & such like make a difference to the flow & efficiency

Lo Cash John wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 11:57 am So you have basically "stock" 914 oval exhaust ports? Nothing special to improve flow?

Ported by James Calvert @ Stateside.
I'm assuming / hoping = woooohooo Ferris Bueller stylee - we will see soon enough

I will post some pics soon, I've been busy, made a post Turbo exhaust, wiring harness, gauges in

Got the Injector Dynamics 1050X's, had to use some adapters and fuel rail spacers as the Jeney ITBs seem set up for PICO which is about 1.5mm longer in O ring location area. I didn't take any chances here with O ring positions so did it right.. I won't put pics, its nothing to see really.
The exhaust silencer part from the Turbo onwards is mocked up and ready for finish welding (thanks to some advice from Richard @ TT exhausts and some kick ass 1D 3" stainless bends) I am waiting for EGT bungs and sensor drawings from Haltech: so the header I can't risk drilling for those until I can do a mock up. On the left hand side there's only about 50mm clearance to the oil line, I'm guessing the sensor is small but better to know before I drill the holes.

I had 2 days "off" over Christmas so made a body wiring harness and got the gauges into the dash. I made the decision to have a separate ECU / engine harness (except for the "standard" engine related wires in the body harness). I will have wideband, EGT amp, ECU and the dash (TBC) so that made sense to me to keep it apart.
I am still considering an iC7 Haltech digital dash but it could look out of place, the dash although a bit Fast and the Furious, looks OK I think. I was thinking about making an arm for the iC7 off the Semaphore switch hole or maybe use one of those sticky mounts on the windscreen so it is a temporary thing......what do you folks think? Is it too high tech / going to ruin this?

I use the ECUMaster ADU5 Digital dash on my buggy and love it. It will display anything the ECU will broadcast on can-bus and it also has analog and digital connections in the back you can hook directly to the dash.
I am tempted to remove all my gauges and just use the dash.
I mounted it to the steering column using an Ebay light mount and modifying it a little to work with the dash.

Here is a little video showing the dash.

I have the same exhaust for my turbo buggy. They're excelent quality!

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rubenski wrote: ↑Fri Feb 03, 2023 12:42 am I have the same exhaust for my turbo buggy. They're excelent quality!

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Good to know! I just hope it is not too loud!

It dampened pretty good. But i disnt re-install it after dragracing...

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So it is running on the Haltech Elite 1500!
I used IGN1A coils There's a few wires to connect So I made a connection to disconnect the engine if needed I decided to embrace the technology and went for the display too , I am finding the Autometer gauges are not accurate (so far) My buddy made a nice top pully out of stainless for the fan hub But all is not well........after 2 minutes of running at 2K RPM oil pressure drops to ~20 psi. (30SAE break in oil)
I am running out of places to look, next is to change the dry sump tank.
Surely my tuna can / turbo oil return or oil feed (from pressure switch port) can't cause this?
Those 3 things (tank, turbo, tuna can) are the only difference from when I did the cam break in on the test stand.
I can't believe a mistake was made in the case machining, the pressure at start is 65psi. Thorsten Pieper oil pump must be good (I have pressure).
Pump is sealed to case with RTV. I even fitted a Tangerine racing oil relief valve, it helped but not at 2K rpm.
The thing that I also can't understand is cranking pressure is only about 7psi even with the plugs out.
This is an unexpected turn of events. Arrrgh!