Re: Type 1 twin screw supercharger build / 9 yrs later I'm back at it

[Alexander_Monday]

Someone on speed talk suggested that these are Nickasil coated.
Any idea if that is what Gene Berg "special" cylinders were about 2009?
I remember they were quite a bit more expensive than the non special ones.
Talking with one of his boys on the phone back then they said they would last longer and something about the metal.

[Bruce.m]

Very unlikely to be nikasil.
That is a very hard plating applied to aluminium. As used on some cars with an aluminium block before alu-sil took over and applied to porsche 911 aircooled cylinders when they switched to aluminium in the 70s.
Aftermarket aluminium & nikasil cylinders have been sold but by LN. A quick magnet check will confirm.

[Piledriver]

For your gooey vaseline-y port coating, I would normally suggest adding a bit of Berrymans B12 chemtool to your fuel, but I doubt you can buy it in Cali unless seriously reformulated... It contains mostly alcohol, acetone and MEK. Don't get it on your paint. (looks like they sell a VOC compliant version, I have been using the real thing for 45 years now, so YMMV on how that version works)
It's cheap enough... a case would last a long time...
.also..dont get it on any cuts. Ow.

[Alexander_Monday]

Just about got it tore down today.
The bearings all looked good for milage NA & boosted except:
Rear main has galling.
Have seen that same thing in SBC's from oil starvation.

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Center main had a little sliver of hardened steel get in somehow.

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The front main was the one I was concerned about because of the blower drive, but it doesn't look too bad.

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Crank (STD/STD) could use a polish assuming it mics out.
No one could ever identify it, not even Brothers when they had it to wedgemate.
I got it second hand over 20 years ago.
These are the only markings:

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Not sure what to look for case wise.
Pardon my amateur clearancing way back when.

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Got to get inside before my wife calls me to do so.

[Alexander_Monday]

I don't know how this 20+ year old crank measures good.
Rod side clearance is a tight .015" on all rods.
1 did find 2 cracks in the case where I excessively clearanced.
I ordered the 94 CB Wiseco pistons and barrels so it will be 2275 instead of 2110.
Going to reuse the rods and crank since they are in excellent condition.
Debating on using the case.
It does have silicone lifter sleeves that are as tight as the day I put it together.
I do have the Berg flycutter to open for the barrels.
But I don't think I can hold the case accurately to to cut the deck in my small mill.
I will call Brothers tomorrow and see how long it would be to get a new case machined by them.
It was a lot of work last time and I am better off financially than back then.

[Piledriver]

Mag case or aluminum?
Mag can be welded, but requires more prep and preferably a argon filled box to weld it in.

[Alexander_Monday]

Current case is AS41 mag.

[Alexander_Monday]

I hadn't mic'ed the #4 crank journal since I didn't have a decent 1 to 2 inch micrometer.
I was assuming it would be in spec since all the rest were, but we know about assuming.
Unfortunately it is out of spec, and while the rest is in spec they are middle of the range.
Measured twice, calibrating with a known good 123 block between sets.

Main
#1 = 2.1646" 2.1646"
#2 = 2.1645" 2.1644"
#3 = 2.1645" 2.1646"
#4 = 1.5733" 1.5732"

Rod
#1 = 2.1644" 2.1645"
#2 = 2.1645" 2.1645"
#3 = 2.1646" 2.1645"
#4 = 2.1644" 2.1645"

Mulled over having it cut .010.
But my wife said to do whatever I wanted this year to make it the way I would want it and order the major parts today for some tax reason. (She does all that stuff)
I already have coming 1021 Race Ready 94mm AA Cylinders & Wiseco Pistons (2 x 2 x 4 Ring Pack).
So since I could get 10% off at CB I ordered:
1131 Pro-Flanged Crank - 86mm Stroke - Chevy Rod Journal
1307 Pro-Flanged Lightweight Chromoly Flywheel - 12 V
1845 Pro-Flanged Main Bearings - Type-1
1947 Rear Main Seal - Flanged Crank
1355 ARP Pro Flanged Flywheel Bolts
1415 Dowel Pins - 8mm Extra Length Double Duty (set of 8 )
1158 White Rhino Aluminum Super Case (94 Bore) 7.0mm Deck
2664 H-Beam Super Race Rods - Chevy rod journal - 5.600" length - set of 4
2672 Clevite Rod Bearings - Chevy Journal - STD. (set of 4)
1629 Chromoly Dual Tapered Push Rods
1313 Stage 3 - 2600lb. 200mm Kennedy Clutch
Plus misc Gaskets etc

Commented for them to call me before shipping for labor to mod the case for the crank and balance the clutch etc since sale goes off before they are back.

[Alexander_Monday]

Putting this here for reference.
Got the CB Wiseco 94mm pistons with 2mm/2mm/4mm ring pack.
(Wiseco K001ESV with 3701E ring pack)
2 pistons are 2 grams heavier than the other 2 on the scale I have available.
389 vs 387
I have a scale coming that has more resolution and accuracy to weigh them.
I will weight the pins to see if there is any difference in them and the pistons again.
There isn't a lot of material to remove.
My understanding is that if I get 2 pairs that weigh the same and use each pair opposing on a boxer engine they will balance each other out unlike a non boxer engine.
Since both 2mm rings do not appear to have a ledge or taper by eye and no dot I called Wiseco.
As I thought, the ring with the shiny outside edge is the top ring.
You have to look really close for a stamped "N" on the top ring.
On the second ring it is more noticeable.
The "N" goes up.
He told me there is a couple thousands taper on the outside.

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[Alexander_Monday]

Did a little background tracking today worried about the thrust wear.
Called around and Ron Lumis and I talked and I really liked his Street 6 clutch system.
Ron said he had a flywheel to fit the CB flanged crank he could use to put it together.
He does not have access to balance it.
CB is OK with removing the flywheel and pressure plate from my order and letting Ron drop ship his flywheel and clutch to them to balance.
Talking with him further about engine, transaxle, and car specifics Monday.

[Alexander_Monday]

Street 6 clutch system is ordered.
Ron said he would build it and send it to CB for balancing probably next week.

Finally got almost all of the carbon out of the combustion chambers last weekend, it was thick and took many soakings and brass brushings.
I had just enough time to flycut one chamber for the 94 barrels.
I should be able to flycut the others this weekend and then remove the valves to clean them and the ports.
All the exhaust valve lash caps are so tight I will have to compress the springs because my lash cap slide puller won't fit under them.
My regular "C" valve spring compressor isn't up to the job.
I found my VW valve spring compressor tool that goes on a rocker shaft, but not the shaft I made to fit the larger studs the Pauter rockers take.
I tried to mill the hole in the tool larger to fit the larger shaft, but as I suspected it is hardened and I was just going to destroy my end mills.
I will make another VW diameter shaft with larger stud holes this weekend hopefully.

[Clonebug]

As far as thrust is concerned just make sure you don't start the engine with the clutch disengaged. There is no oil in the thrust washers until the oil pressure is up so putting pressure on it is not recommended if you have anything over a stock clutch.

I always start my engine with foot off clutch and trans in neutral with my Stage I and Stage II pressure plate....... and my thrust after 46,000 miles was still perfect and needed no cutting when I had it refreshed.

[Alexander_Monday]

I over think everything, I know.
But, might as well do what I can to make it last.

[Piledriver]

Actually on the stock setups (t1 or t4) there is (effectively) a tiny oil sump between the seal and the bearing the thrust washers sit in, as the drain hole to the case is raised a bit, off to the side, I believe this is to keep the seal oiled, but the thrust washers also likely wick oil at rest. (not pushing the clutch on start good idea regardless).

The oil seal surface on the flywheel actually likes a very slightly non-mirror finish so the oil film has a place to stay.

Have never eyeballed a vw crank/case setup with the flange, I would hope they kept same configuration.
I would also be concerned with crank thrust surface finish, needs to be as good as possible.

[Alexander_Monday]

Finally got the exhaust valve caps off.
Fly cut the heads for the 94mm cylinders and just a smidgen of the deck to clean up.
CC'ed the chambers and they are all right at 64cc which is what CB lists new.
I was running 8.0 to 1 with the 2110.
2387 calculations .050 deck is 9.2 to 1 and .060 deck is 9.0 to 1.
Cam will have IVC of 50 ABDC @ .050 installed straight up.
The 2110 cam had IVC of 66 ABDC @ .050 3 deg advanced.
To get back to 8 to 1 would require 74cc with .060 deck which is a lot of chamber.
And I would like to keep the chamber where I could go to thick wall 92's if I have problems with the 94's.
I don't know how conservative I was with the compression ratio, and the smaller duration cam raises effective and dynamic compression anyway.

For comparison:
2110: @ 8.0 to 1
Effective compression of 5.25
Dynamic compression of 6.31
Boost compression @ 15# of 12.26

2387 @ 8 to 1 =
Effective compression of 5.87
Dynamic compression of 7.06
Boost compression @ 15# of 13.78

2387 @ 8.5 to 1 =
Effective compression of 6.28
Dynamic compression of 7.49
Boost compression @ 15# of 14.65

2387 @ 9.0 to 1 =
Effective compression of 6.69
Dynamic compression of 7.92
Boost compression @ 15# of 15.52

2387 @ 9.2 to 1 =
Effective compression of 6.86
Dynamic compression of 8.10
Boost compression @ 15# of 15.88

Anyone running 9.0 to 1 or higher with E85 and boost?
My IAT's before injection run 10 to 20F over ambient thanks to the intercooler.
I see a wide range of theoretical answers on the web, but would like some real world experience.