spectre6000 wrote:Look at the image I most recently posted, and imagine that the rod with the blingy blue ball is tubular with another tube slid over it and the whole shebang is attached to a pivot on the right hand tie rod where it passes over the chassis tunnel. The inner tube OD is oil film thinner than the outer tube ID such that they slide over each other like a trombone slide to make it longer or shorter. This is to account for the change in length that would be required as the lever travels along the arc that would be required to actuate it with the tie rod (left to right with a bit of fore and aft movement). The whole assembly with the lever is on its side versus the typical upright mounting position.
By this connection, the lever is actuated left/right (up/down in standard orientation) to actuate the secondary left/right rear brake calipers according to steering input (driven by the movement of the tie rod). The amount of actuation is determined by the length of the lever which affects the amount of pivot angle available at the lever across the range of motion of the tie rod. The shorter the length of the lever, the greater the angle of lever actuation (recall high school trigonometry). This allows for tuning of the system to allow for more or less braking at greater or lesser degrees of steering lock.
It is the pix and some of the dialogue is what has thrown me off, that and the use of the word tie-rod.
There were two URLs posted, one was from Moore and was for an adjustable/sliding (billet) bracket that I think just uses stops with a lift up lever/button. the other was from Pacific Customs and was for a
"CNC Remote Adjustable Control For Dual Master Cylinder Brakes With 3 Foot Long Cable" http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merch ... ange_high=
I am going to reread the posts later to day to see where I got lost (if I can figure out where I got lost anway). Thanks for your patience.
There are three shown here: the two fancy-schmancy billet locking sliders and the old style slider with a pull button. I presented them only as ideas of adjustability. Wing/Butterfly nuts, by design, are intended as fairly light duty fasteners otherwise, unless you had fingers and wrists of steel, you most likely wouldn't be able tighten them up to the proper torque. Some of the winged nuts are light enough that the wings will break when too much pressure is applied to them, some do a lot better.
On the picture, I assumed (my fault) because of how it looked and the words used confused me. I'll try to do better in the future
You can't link to specific results with a .asp URL. .asp stands for active server pages, and the only way to replicate what's displayed on a such a link is to replicate the session (assuming I fully understand that part of things, not my domain per se). You'll have to link to each of the three individually.
'57 German Market Karmann Ghia (DD)
'58 German market Beetle (resto in progress)
'62 Panel Bus (sold)
Yes. Essentially like that sitting on the chassis tunnel between the RH tie rod and the shifter with the lever style cutting brake mounted sideways so that the lever goes left to right with the tie rod instead of up and down like a parking brake.
'57 German Market Karmann Ghia (DD)
'58 German market Beetle (resto in progress)
'62 Panel Bus (sold)
The transvers mounting you quickly would not like. It will get in the way and you will not have as much muscle control (pectorals, shoulders and others one way and parts of the back, shoulders and other muscles the other way. Even diagonal will be awkward as you will be pulling into yourself or pushing away. I played with the idea once because of the mounting location being in-between the shifter and e-brake and quickly found out it wasn't the best of ideal. Sit in a chair and mount a stick approx where you want it, with a pivot on the floor, then add some strong rubber bands or bungee cords in the directions the handle would be traveling. Work this assembly back and forth for a while (you need to add some leverage problems too); you will find shorter handles also mean more work your arms and body will have to do. If you could put a steering wheel in place and a shifter there too, then you can see some of the problems. Even mounting the turning brake in the dash is going to be worse instead of better and then you would have a lethal part sticking out in the event of a crash.
This is similar to a problem solving meeting when I was still working for a living.
You don't ever touch the cutting brake as described. You could put a cover over it so that it looks like nothing more than a box between the shifter and the firewall. It's actuated by being connected to the tie rod. As the tie rod moves back and forth from steering wheel input, the lever is moved back and forth (refer to my crappy squiggle drawing). The driver actuates the cutting brake passively as the steering wheel is turned.
'57 German Market Karmann Ghia (DD)
'58 German market Beetle (resto in progress)
'62 Panel Bus (sold)
Unfortunately, I'm moving in the next few weeks and all of my tools, materials, parts, etc. went into a shipping container Saturday morning. On top of that, the garage space will be limited at the new place and is already fully occupied between my DD Ghia and my Beetle in progress. Neither of which are going to be pressed into race duty or even canyon carving duty...
'57 German Market Karmann Ghia (DD)
'58 German market Beetle (resto in progress)
'62 Panel Bus (sold)
Here's my image, not sure if it helps or hurts my explanation.
When you turn left the right front tie rod moves away from the center of the car pulling the cable with it, the cable in turn pulls the lever on the brake to the LR caliper applying the brakes to the inside rear tire. The opposite is true for a right hand turn. To adjust the rate you could adjust where on the lever the cable attaches. To disable the system remove the cable all together.
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Hmmmm, I see said the blind carpenter as he grabbed his hammer and saw! I think you are missing a bunch of things going on and are going to have to get rid of the mechanical concept and go electrical (micro sensors for example); too much monkey motion in the mechanical idea based on what I am now seeing. I don't think you want to put additional loads into the steering like that either. Also, I think you are not going to want that to be full time for several reasons like fuel economy for instance so you could easily shut it off if it were electrically based. think about how some of the cars can change their suspension on the fly from Grandpa/Grandma to Good-lord-Lucy, hang on to your depends!
I got this off the web then cleaned it a bit then enlarged it slightly as the pix was very small. If you had any high school drafting (and snag the picture here plus get some true/supporting measurements off your own car) you should be able to transfer the top and side views to paper to do an adequate three-view layout with the first two views derived from this; from what you have said you should only need to go back as far to the rear as the e-brake. I would suggest that you use a front view rather than the typical rear view to complete your layout just to see what happens with turning of the front wheel plus suspension travel (arc) if you are not attaching directly to the steering box/steering shaft/idler arm. You will need to transfer all the information to all three views (maybe using some tracings to see the animation of the suspension. I think you might get some surprises.
I think you are missing a bunch of things going on and are going to have to get rid of the mechanical concept and go electrical (micro sensors for example); too much monkey motion in the mechanical idea based on what I am now seeing. I don't think you want to put additional loads into the steering like that either. Also, I think you are not going to want that to be full time for several reasons like fuel economy for instance so you could easily shut it off if it were electrically based. think about how some of the cars can change their suspension on the fly from Grandpa/Grandma to Good-lord-Lucy, hang on to your depends!
