1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

[Dean...]

Update!

The motor is all together and in the car. Right now I'm checking out the fuel line; I've always suspected an issue with fuel supply, so I thought I would check it out before I fire up the engine.

I'll let you all know what I find

In the meantime, any insight as to what the big hole in the pic is, and any info on the lowering adjusters in the last pic?

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[Dean...]

I HAVE TO STOP GETTING PEOPLE TO DO WORK FOR ME!!!

I got the car running! Once I connected up the ignition, she started so easily! It idled for about 15 seconds before I realise that the left carb has petrol all over the top! I think, damn, I just paid a guy to rebuild these carbs, and already I have dirt on the needle and seat.... Oh well, these things happen I suppose. I take the top off the carb, but unfortunately not before heaps and heaps of petrol goes down into my nice new cylinders

I look at the float, and I see this!

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[sideshow]

Shift rod extractor hole and Avis style adjuster (more ranting on http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=114254)

I use a M6 nut (normally 10mm across) and lung pressure to eyeball the needle shut setting.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

http://www.mooreparts.com/avis-weld-on- ... axle-beam/

This is the AVIS front beam adjuster. OK for the street and does allow for some changing of the preload for a softer or higher/lower ride... if necessary. Keep an eye on the fastener as they can loosen up or strip out occasionally.

http://www.mooreparts.com/weld-in-adjus ... axle-beam/

This is an adjuster for the Link beam; there is one for the BJ beam also. This is a bit more heavy duty than the one you have now.

As to the "cut and turn" (in the URL) of the stock beam, it is probably a stronger way to do it but you take a guess as to how much to turn it then you are pretty much stuck with it or re-cut and turn it again to change ride height or suspension preload.

If you decide to change the adjuster please be aware that you have to read the instructions at least 3 times then mark out the bits and pieces that don't affect your beam as the instructions that come with the conversion pieces, and the on-line instructions, are both in the instructions together and you can get lost in them very easily very easy.

On the carb thing, did you clean both the fuel tank and the fuel line going to the rear before putting the carbs on. Older cars, especially ones that have been sitting awhile, can collect "droppings that break loose at the most inopportune times.

[66brm]

Carb may need a new top depending on the repair, is that also a crack in the needle/seat assy? What model idf and size? I may have a spare

[Dean...]

Thanks for everyone's posts!

I got the engine running once I cleaned the fuel lines and put other tops on. I have 2 sets of carbs and when I asked the mechanic what was going on, he said he pulled the top off my old set of carbs because the gasket was better on them. He did say why he failed to tell me about the repair, which could have been from the previous owner. Anyways, the carbs on the car now, tops and all, are only about 12 months old, so they should be right.

I got it running and was tuning the carbs when I ran out of petrol lol. I bought more yesterday and when I get some time later today I'll fill the tank and finish tuning!

66brm, where in Australia are you?

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[Dean...]

Well... Surprise surprise, I'm poop with cars! The engine is doing exactly what it was doing before the top end rebuild! It's a light show coming out the exhaust. Sometimes I can see it also happening down the throat of the carbs!

So this is where I am..

* I have plenty of petrol
* The fuel lines are clear
* New petrol filter
* New fuel pump
* New spark plugs gapped at 28 thou
* Tappets set. They are the chromoly so I set to so I could spin the pushrod. I also checked the clearances every now and then and they were a at least 3 thou. When the engine is running I can hear them, probably too well
* It has a new CB Performance Magnaspark 2 setup with standard springs
* Timing is set at 32 degrees full advance
* New spark plug leads
* New fuel regulator set at 3 PSI
* Carbs are 44 Webers with 34 vents, 140 mains and 55 idles
* I have found it very difficult to set the mixture for number 1 cylinder. It almost feels like the engine runs better when this cylinder is leaned all the way
* The engine is a 1916 and I replaced the pistons, rings and cylinders. I also had the exhaust valves replaced. I also replaced the oil pump.

I've decided to call it a day. Tomorrow I'll take note of where the mixture screws are and I'll reset them again, starting with cylinder 1.

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[66brm]

Perth now

[66brm]

When in the rpm range does it backfire?, idle, transition or top end? What cam rockers and springs? The fault sounds ignition related, sure your firing order is correct? It wouldn't be the first time it's been stuffed up

[Dean...]

No backfiring until it hits around 2000-2500, but it doesn't do it every time. Before I did the top end, I tried the mains at 145, but decided they could be a little rich so I went straight to 140 after new cylinders, etc.

Firing order set at 1-4-3-2. I actually go backwards from 1, so that would be 1-2-3-4

I didn't change springs etc. Up until January when the cylinders filled up with water, all was great, which is why I decided to replace the cylinders, etc.

I was thinking that the tappets were pretty loud, so tomorrow I think I'll set them again before doing anything, just to make sure. Maybe stuff has settled a little since getting it running again, so it definitely won't hurt.

To me it really does feel timing related, but prior to new cylinders I did reinstall the original 009, coil and leads and the issue was still present.

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[66brm]

Ok so is it happening on hard acceleration or can you sneak up on it and it'll just start farting?

[Dean...]

That's the problem... There is no consistency. Sometimes I can get it to easily rev to 5000, slow or fast, other times I can't seem to get it very far over 2 grand.

I bought a fuel pressure gauge which I installed after the regulator, and I don't think it's working. Today it wasn't even reading 1 psi. Or maybe it's the pump that is the problem.... In any case, I just ordered a new fuel pump from Rod Penrose. The pump I recently bought is one of those square ones which I don't really like but that was all they had. If Rod is using these other pumps, then they can't be too bad. I really hope a new pump will fix this because I'm a little over this. I was thinking about doing a Subaru conversion but then I went and spent money on cylinders and stuff, even though I have a complete 1997 Impreza sitting here! I had decided that it was going to be a little cheaper and quicker to just do what was required to the 1916, but I'm fast regretting that decision!

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

I think you said you have an 091 dist., is that true?

If so, not all 091s are the same, some are better than others. The advance curve on them comes in a bit early on them too. If you have a Sun Machine available to you down there have your dist. spun checking for both mechanical condition and the advance. I think I heard that some people are going to the 010 w/vacuum advance but not using the vacuum part. If I remember the 091's advance comes in at something like 26 to 28 degrees. The 010's is somewhere in the low 30s.

To add to this I would also recommend running a temp ground direct to the engine. You said it wasn't a consistent problem and since the ground, even in today's more complicated electrical systems, ground problems often traced to be a problem.

Also, check the plug wires and high tension leads for condition. I recommended doing this my oldest stepson which he did. All the plug wires pegged the volt/OHM meter but the high tension lead came short of pegging the needle which he missed so he did it again and got the same reading. He got the high tension off his other engine and it completely... did nothing; the wire was a POS. He got a new HT lead and most of the problems he was having went away.

You never know when something so simple and so basic can drive you nuts!

[Dean...]

Thanks for the tips Lee!

My spare distributor is definitely a 009, but it's the Magnaspark 2 setup that's on it right now.

I have had issues over the years with bad earths, so I usually go a little crazy and set up lots of extra earths lol one of the first things I did was convert the charging system to an alternator and while doing so I ran an earth from the battery to the alternator pedestal.

The leads came with the Magnaspark 2 setup, so they are new. When I tested the 009 setup with normal coil I used a different set of leads and still had the problem.

I really think it is fuel related, which is a it feels like there is no rhyme or reason. Sometimes it revs, sometimes it won't. I think it depends on how much fuel is in the bowl, and because the pump isn't working properly, sometimes the bowl has plenty of fuel, other times it doesn't. I'm going to do some more testing in a minute, but in any case I've ordered a new pump and it will be here in 24 hours.

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

Stupid question: when going go an Alt (I did the same conversion) the fuel pump is different shaped and the pump's rod is different also so... did get changed also. you checked the obvious, the gas cap and filter didn't you .

I run an 091 with a Pertronix conversion. The reason I have the dist. spun is to check the bushings and the stock advance is working correctly. I thought mine had gone away on me and replaced it then later I got the impression it was something else. I was talking to someone the other day about the place where the Sun Machine was but they are now gone. I should have had my backup 091 checked also.