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I've been kind of following this mostly out of curiosity.

The last performance engine I built back in the early '90's had dual valve springs with the inner ones being flat rather than round or now days oval. One of their jobs was to stop valve bounce (aka dampening) when the valve goes back to the seat after lift. I got curious and did a short search and found this so for what it is worth: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-10 ... vesprings/

Lee

Its funny you mention valve springs...

So earlier this week a package from CB Performance arrived containing the much awaited push rods for my engine. I opted for stock length cromoly rods to reinforce my valve train. I installed the push rods, set my valve lash, rotated the engine a few times by hand and heard a loud metallic "twang" sound. Long story short, the SBC valve springs are binding at full lift. This wasn't a problem before with the worn stock cam, however with my new turbo-grind cam its now a problem. The chevy springs have much thicker coils than the VW ones do.
So looks like I'll be tearing the top end down tomorrow and coming up with a solution. Most likely buying a set of VW high rev springs.

-Nick-

FYI:

Usually when one is changing from a stock or stock(-ish) cam shaft to a high lift or high lift, long duration cam you get an adjustable pushrod or two to check clearances out on one cylinder; apparently pushrod lengths affects the use of Chevy springs also. You also don't want the valves kissing the pistons either. The adjustable pushrod lets you order the proper length of pushrods for both the intake and exhaust as, depending on the cam, each side (exhaust or intake) could require different lengths.

Lee

This morning I pulled the engine from the car to get a better look at what was going on. Turns out the valve spring clearance is fine. My noise was coming from Cyl #2 exhaust valve getting stuck and slamming shut. I pulled the head and found the valve had a "rough' spot in its travel. After some 2k grit sand paper, cleaning, and some fresh oil it was good to go.

I reassembled the engine, set the lash, and stabbed it back in the car. Hopefully soon I'll have it running and on the dyno.



Side project: Digital dash using TunerStudio and a Raspberry pi.

-Nick-

Another weekend in the garage and much has been done. Engine is full of oil and primed (this is after chasing a starter issue), intake manifolds and injectors are in place, mounting for the digital dash is made and being mocked up, and engine wiring has been started.


Even though I already had a harness for the previous EFI / Turbo setup, I wanted to clean it up, simplify it and I'm adding PWM idle air control.


Here's the beginnings of my digital dash mount. Decided to go with a centre mounted console. I plan to relocate some gauges here and mount some control switched here as well.

-Nick-

Ha! I love that glove box sticker!

Today was a good day. After discovering my stater had "wet the bed" I was off to the local parts store for a replacement. To my surprise the nearest Autozone carries a rebuilt starter for my '68 in stock. $60 and a core return and I was back in business.

I have completed all of the engine wiring and was ready for a test run. The engine would crank but refused to fire. Turns out I had the PIP and SAW wires coming from the EDIS module reversed. After fixing that and throwing a few gallons of exploding-dinosaurs in the fuel tank she lit off (Video coming soon)!

The goal was mount the turbo outside of the engine compartment and out of sight. Only clue that it is boosted is the red charge pipe and the blow-off valve.

I started putting the rear body parts back on. Probably going to leave the rear bumper off for now.


Here's a shot of the turbo with everything bolted up. If IATs become a problem I will built an enclosure for the air filter.


-Nick-

Nicely done!

It's not much, but here is a quick vid of the car running. Please excuse the mess in the car, just finished wiring up the PCM and I'm still working on the the electronics in the interior.

Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/Ef7nCgLZXh8

-Nick-

I like it!
It will be interesting to see what you get when you go back to the dyno!

O2 sensor before the turbo eh? Looks like prolly enough room for it in the tailpipe , no ?

panel wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 7:04 pm O2 sensor before the turbo eh? Looks like prolly enough room for it in the tailpipe , no ?

If that's the case, you'll want to revise that. Pre turbo readings will get screwed up as boost goes up.

If you're gonna test drive a new engine, might as well do it in style! Here's a quick vid doing a few laps around Texas Motorspeedway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHiRWD9Ejh4

-Nick-

Very cool to do no doubt!

Plans for some soort of intercooling yet? Otherwise the same cause of pinging is still there and likely with the same outcome..
Nice build nevertheless

Yes, either an inter-cooler or water methanol injection. I plan to keep the boost low, maybe 7-8 psi and won't increase it until I have some kind of charge cooling. I've already seen a 20* drop in intake temps just by moving the turbo out of the engine bay.

-Nick-