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Thanks.
I put a lot of thought into it. I'm not sure about the physics exactly, I imagined how water would flow. I think air is the same!?!
I'll do some measurements with a 4 input CHT monitoring system of some sort when I'm ready to hit the road.
Also, I put a lot of fibreglass and resin on there to make it fit, not touch hot parts, have no gaps and fit the fan ring. It stinks, it itches, I really hate GRP so much!
It looks terrible now, but once I know the molding work is completely done I'll paint it. It's ready for 2K primer.....
I need to close gaps around it / in the engine bay to stop hot air coming up into the fan and all that good stuff.......
I'm great with a spray gun, it should look awesome.

I hate the stuff too , I'm making the Mk2 version of my custom shroud at the moment .https://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopi ... 1&t=149141

wreck wrote: ↑Tue May 28, 2019 5:35 am I hate the stuff too , I'm making the Mk2 version of my custom shroud at the moment .https://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopi ... 1&t=149141

Nice project! You have some serious skills. You must be immune to the itching by now?!
On my last bug I did GRP bonnet, decklid, wings and running boards. Making then fit was a pain in the backside and hands .
This time my '50 is all original steel!

Wally wrote: ↑Thu May 23, 2019 10:08 am Cheers mate!
You know, if you just stay at 15 psi max and have no plans to go higher, you´ll never take advantage of the full potential of that EFR7670. In that case, you could also opt for the smaller EFR7163 which will spool even faster, say 400 RPM or so I guesstimate. Its still a 450-500hp turbo fully wind-up where the EFR7670 will go on at 2 bar boost and over to 550-600hp.
For street use and under 1,5 bar boost, the EFR7163 would be even better spool-wise.
Up to you, its an awesome line of turbo's any which way imo.

Hi Wally,
I'm just about to buy my Turbo and have been offered a great deal on a new EFR7163 0.80A/R twin scroll.
I presume that is the version you meant?
I mean, the biggest A/R on that is 0.85 undivided. I suppose twin scroll is the way to go and my EGT will be OK?
Sorry to ask, it's a lot of money if I get it wrong!

split1950 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2019 5:54 am
Hi Wally,
I'm just about to buy my Turbo and have been offered a great deal on a new EFR7163 0.80A/R twin scroll.
I presume that is the version you meant?
I mean, the biggest A/R on that is 0.85 undivided. I suppose twin scroll is the way to go and my EGT will be OK?
Sorry to ask, it's a lot of money if I get it wrong!

Thats the one!

EGT's will be dependant on a LOT of other things, but the backpressure of those is usually around 1:1 (much lower then comparable Garrett's and other turbo's), so any EGT's will not be the cause of this turbo!

Its a lot of money, but...it probably has integrated wastegate iirc? so you'll save on external wastegates ($$) and they all have integrated BOV's, so you will save on that as well. Plus the Boost control solonoïd valve is also integrated, so you save again.
All in all, its very good value imo.

Wally wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2019 6:06 am

split1950 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2019 5:54 am
Hi Wally,
I'm just about to buy my Turbo and have been offered a great deal on a new EFR7163 0.80A/R twin scroll.
I presume that is the version you meant?
I mean, the biggest A/R on that is 0.85 undivided. I suppose twin scroll is the way to go and my EGT will be OK?
Sorry to ask, it's a lot of money if I get it wrong!

Thats the one!

EGT's will be dependant on a LOT of other things, but the backpressure of those is usually around 1:1 (much lower then comparable Garrett's and other turbo's), so any EGT's will not be the cause of this turbo!

Its a lot of money, but...it probably has integrated wastegate iirc? so you'll save on external wastegates ($$) and they all have integrated BOV's, so you will save on that as well.
All in all, its very good value imo.

Wow thanks for the quick reply!
Yes you are right (as usual!), the overall cost works out really OK, plus the obvious of getting a kick ass turbo.
I'd better get my credit card out!
BTW, nice video in your last post, your car sounds and goes brilliant. Do you have to take spare socks with you? I reckon it could blow your socks off!

Turbo tip of the day: I would get one of these with that:
https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-wa ... -actuator/

Because of the two ports (top and bottom), you (your EBC) can manage the boost much better and keep the gate totally shut till you are at the spring pressure of higher. The original single port has been reported to creep open even before wastegate presssure had arrived, causing unneccesary lag (basically like all those OEM-like single actuators).

Look what arrived today!
AWESOME EFR7163 T4 0.80A/R twin scroll. Now I'd better start welding up some 1.75" 304 tubes

AWESOME!
Try to keep header size modest though: for turbo's smaller (then you'd think) sized headers work better: better spool, same top end power. 1 3/4" is unneccasary big imho. Especially since the type 4 heads exhaust ports only have so much room (also considering the push rod tubes).
I used 42mm outside diameter 304 'stainless' with 1,5mm wall, which is 39mm inside diameter. That is even on the big side _I think_ , but 1mm smaller isn't readily available and for oval port type 4 heads 42mm still fits ok-ish if you have a well made header.

Thanks for the info!
I am going to order Oval port stubb pipes from Turbo Thomas here in the UK and he said the same thing - 42mm OD is more than enough. His stubbs are 42OD with 3mm wall.
I'll have to do something where it joins the turbo flange as the holes are 35x50mm I think. Can be done though.
I made a nice motorised welding fixture to rotate the pipes as I weld them - only cost £20 in parts. Hopefully my welds will look decent!
I'm trying to make the quality of finish on this car something special (it is a '50 after all).

A rotary fixture would be great for welding tube!

Forge motorsport dual port actuator arrived today. Just need to figure out what to connect the second port to
I think I'll fit the lowest boost spring too (the ~20PSI Red one is in there, not a good idea for the first boosted setup).
Just waiting for my good friend who is doing some machine work on the manifolds and valve covers (the '50 bug is narrow so I had to put them on a diet) then I can do the first run up with the dual valve springs in. After that I plan to make the header. I've designed it on CAD, now I need to actually make it. Hopefully my pipe welding motorised fixture will help it look decent.

It's gonna be awesome! I'm looking forward to seeing how that turntable works for you. I looked at them when I was doing mine. For me building the header was the most fun part.

split1950 wrote: I think I'll fit the lowest boost spring too (the ~20PSI Red one is in there, not a good idea for the first boosted setup)..

Who told you that?

split1950 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 19, 2019 7:34 am Forge motorsport dual port actuator arrived today.
Actuator 20190719_152202.jpg

Awesome!