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Tony Z wrote: ↑Tue Aug 22, 2023 1:19 am I'm pretty sure Len and Jake did a writeup on crankcase venting where they said that nothing extra above the top vent is needed, ever

Do you maybe have a link to that write up.

Thanks in advance

https://newsite.hamheads.com/2016/12/1 ... -analysis/

This is probably it

yip, thats the one

Those findings are why I "vent" only the 3/4 head, and its fed via a check valve and vacuum break.
(purge air only goes IN at the head)

This also goes along with old discussions here and on TOS with Ray Greenwood.

I have run both intake and exhaust source limited case vacuum of ~5-10mm Hg.
The vacuum break is adjustable, its really just a low cracking pressure check valve.
the ex vac works best at high loads, manifold vac at low loads. Both are best.

I run a pair of woven stainless steel scrub pads in the case chimney as oil separators.
These are not "steel wool", more like woven ribbons of very thin flat SS, zero loose bits.
They stay nice and hot so no vaseline buildup.

The vacuum pull is on the chimney breather, it pulls through a 1L catch can with drain.
At 10-12k mile oil changes I got maybe a half cup of dirty water and maybe an oz or two oil in can.

T1 equivalent location for the scrub pads would be inside the gen stand.

Bruce.m wrote: ↑Wed Aug 23, 2023 12:50 am https://newsite.hamheads.com/2016/12/1 ... -analysis/

This is probably it

Thanks,

What I hear/read on here and from other people, that this is thru for small displacement engines, but bigger stroke / diameter engines need a bit more breathing.
I also thought that it was not necessary, but is blowing a bit... first I am going to seal the generator stand properly and see if this helps.
The german type 4 guys that do track racing have an extra vent in the case on the flywheel side
(between cylinder 3 and cylinder 1) but I was to late to do this on my engine it was already closed when I saw that solution.

Will investigated further.

Regards

The 1/2 (getting old, one side or the other) side tends to stay clear of oil as the windage tends to pull from that side... but I'm sure there is a flow limit.

Try the woven pot scrubbers in the chimney, they helped me a lot.
They are cheap and available ~anywhere fine or even sort of OK kitchen goods are sold.

... as to pulling from the case directly where the crank and rods whirl, you might be better off fabricating something that pulls below the windage tray and comes up behind the engine tin (guess where to put it depends on cooling setup)

...Otherwise you are sucking on an oil hurricane. That will need some tricks. Dry sump would help.

What product did you use to seal the stand?
I’d probably avoid RTV myself and use Loctite 518 (when I get around to building my upright T4 engine)

RTV is for thermostat housings on chevys...
... although Subaru is pretty adamant about using it (basically ultra black) to seal up their motors, I almost went with 518 for the hell of it..

Permatex 518 or 565/567 covers most needs, although I have had luck with copperkote in certain places.

Not a lot Kilometers on the engine yet, because of winter.
But did find a good deal on this.
Remmele heads bare but prepped for 94mm - 44mm/38mm valves.
Type 1 exhaust ports.

Will send them out to fit valves / seats and guides.
And cut for 100mm cylinder.

Regards eddie

That is an excellent upgrade!

Wally wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 11:04 am That is an excellent upgrade!

Thanks Wally.
I think so too.
Was not planning this, but they came by for an very interesting price.

And I am still aiming for 200HP and with this I think it is possible.
( I hope so )

Regards Eddie

Was hoping to enjoy my summer with my beetle, finally finished I thought.
But some drove the back of my beetle while being parked.

No. What a nightmare

Oh no, after all that work. I hope it is reparable.

Well, not a lot has happend during the summer. Waited for ages to get some Polyester back wings/fenders.
So car was in the bodyshop the whole time.
But finaly some progress, I think it is almost ready for paint.
New bumper, new fender, new decklid, remodeld the rear apron back in shape.