Re: Type 1 twin screw supercharger build / 9 yrs later I'm back at it

[Piledriver]

There is usually more deck variation than that from the rods.... swap around to find best fit.
(if rebuilt stock anyway, not as likely with all new bits, but...)
You have probably done that, just figured it worth a mention.

[Alexander_Monday]

Tried rods and pistons.
New CB 5.6 rods and Wiseco Pistons are very nicely the same.

[Alexander_Monday]

Fly cut 2 pistons 0.0035" and balanced all 4 to 386.2g.

[Alexander_Monday]

Still waiting on the camshaft, but in the meantime getting a little done.
Added an outlet at the top of the water line so the intercooler doesn't have a large portion of it filled with air.







I had wished I could monitor the air temp and pressure between the supercharger and the intercooler, so while it is apart I drilled and tapped 2 holes to 1/8 NPT that will allow clearance.
I lathed off the mounting locking part of another supercharged Dodge IAT sensor and drilled through a 1/8 NPT plug.
I will JB weld them together like I did the GM sensors turned into Dodge ones.



















I will use the other 1/8 NPT hole for a tube to go to a GM 3 bar sensor.

[panel]

Was this the faster reacting sensor or ?

[Alexander_Monday]

Faster than the GM, but not the ultra fast TDK thermistor.
Same one I am using for air temp before supercharger and IAT after intercooler.
Main thing is I had to make it fit within a 1/8 NPT size hole due to space restraints.

Yellow = Dodge 5149279AC
Blue = GM open element
Pink = TDK B57540G1103F000 with TLV2461 op amp interface circuit.

[Alexander_Monday]

More delays, sigh.
After trying to contact Mike Jones (Jones cams) multiple times three different ways over months I have decided to go a different route since he had said he ordered the blank back in April.
He finally responded to a PM on Speed Talk to cancel my order, but not the previous PM's, voice mails, or emails except to a couple of emails several months back in which he didn't actually answer my legitimate technical question that needed discussion before he ground the new camshaft.
The first cam was ground on a 1.22" base circle and had slight interference lobe to crank counterweight, and I want to avoid that.
I am a business owner myself and if it is a very small job and not a regular client I tell them up front that they will be on the back burner and give them alternative business references that I personally trust if they wish to go that direction, but I still try to communicate.
Anyway, rant over.

I contacted Powell Machine whom I subscribe to on YT because he seems to be a no nonsense straight up guy that would tell me if he didn't want to do it or if VW Type 1 was too far out of his wheelhouse.
To my surprise he responded he could and would and that he had EP-12 blanks in stock because he grinds cams for a racing team and would clearance for rods based on the amount I needed.
(He didn't say whom, and I didn't ask out of respect)
He does want full flow numbers in 0.100" increments for intake and exhaust and specified how he wanted them done with clay radius on the intake without intake manifold but with a J pipe attached to the exhaust.
He told me up front "I'm sure I will have to design lobes so probably 6-8 weeks after we nail down the spec's."
I did not ask price, as I am looking for the best possible starting point and willing to pay for his professional advice and time.

On the bright side, Brian at E Motorsports whom I bought my engine yoke from (It is very nice) volunteered to flow a head for me if I pay shipping both ways even though I offered to pay for his time.
He wants to see how the intake numbers compare to what CB published back in the day.
So, I am packing up a head this weekend and sending it to him first thing next week.

Now I am also mulling over sending the case off to get it lifter sleeved since obviously I am not getting this engine together anytime soon.
CB didn't believe the aluminum case I bought from them needed sleeving and they do not offer that work but did say it could be done later if it did wear which planted a seed in my head that maybe it did need it.
I had Brothers do the mag case I had which did wear with an FK87 and LS springs, and they did a very nice job, but my holdback was shipping and machining time and not knowing if it is really necessary with the new case I have.

[Chip Birks]

More delays, sigh.
After trying to contact Mike Jones (Jones cams) multiple times three different ways over months I have decided to go a different route since he had said he ordered the blank back in April.
He finally responded to a PM on Speed Talk to cancel my order, but not the previous PM's, voice mails, or emails except to a couple of emails several months back in which he didn't actually answer my legitimate technical question that needed discussion before he ground the new camshaft.
The first cam was ground on a 1.22" base circle and had slight interference lobe to crank counterweight, and I want to avoid that.
I am a business owner myself and if it is a very small job and not a regular client I tell them up front that they will be on the back burner and give them alternative business references that I personally trust if they wish to go that direction, but I still try to communicate.
Anyway, rant over.

I contacted Powell Machine whom I subscribe to on YT because he seems to be a no nonsense straight up guy that would tell me if he didn't want to do it or if VW Type 1 was too far out of his wheelhouse.
To my surprise he responded he could and would and that he had EP-12 blanks in stock because he grinds cams for a racing team and would clearance for rods based on the amount I needed.
(He didn't say whom, and I didn't ask out of respect)
He does want full flow numbers in 0.100" increments for intake and exhaust and specified how he wanted them done with clay radius on the intake without intake manifold but with a J pipe attached to the exhaust.
He told me up front "I'm sure I will have to design lobes so probably 6-8 weeks after we nail down the spec's."
I did not ask price, as I am looking for the best possible starting point and willing to pay for his professional advice and time.

On the bright side, Brian at E Motorsports whom I bought my engine yoke from (It is very nice) volunteered to flow a head for me if I pay shipping both ways even though I offered to pay for his time.
He wants to see how the intake numbers compare to what CB published back in the day.
So, I am packing up a head this weekend and sending it to him first thing next week.

Now I am also mulling over sending the case off to get it lifter sleeved since obviously I am not getting this engine together anytime soon.
CB didn't believe the aluminum case I bought from them needed sleeving and they do not offer that work but did say it could be done later if it did wear which planted a seed in my head that maybe it did need it.
I had Brothers do the mag case I had which did wear with an FK87 and LS springs, and they did a very nice job, but my holdback was shipping and machining time and not knowing if it is really necessary with the new case I have.

For what its worth, I've never heard of an aluminum case needing lifter bores bushed.

[Alexander_Monday]

Thanks, I appreciate the information.

[Alexander_Monday]

Daniel Powell at Powell Cams recommended the following cam:
240/255 @ 0.050, 0.385" lobe lift, 109 +2 LSA, 1.090" BC
$250 + $20 shipping.
4 to 6 weeks to design lobes and grind.
Calculates to:
Intake Centerline = 107
Exhaust Centerline = 111
@0.050:
Intake Open = 13 BTDC
Intake Close = 47 ABDC
Exhaust Open = 59 BBDC
Exhaust Close = 17 ATDC
Overlap = 29

I said go for it.

Recommendation was based on the following information:

Mid-range & top end power
Street/Strip
Shift point 7,200 or less
Supercharged with intercooler 15PSI
2387cc
E85
Port Fuel Injected with 65mm Throttle Body
Static Compression 9.1
Rocker ratio 1.4
CB 30mm lifters
1950#
Diff 3.88
1st - 4th 3.75 / 2.25 / 1.44 / 1.04
28.2" tire diameter

[panel]

More people should spend this much time and research for cams. Well done ! It's probably not much more co$t wise to have a one off cam eh ?

[Alexander_Monday]

I believe $250 is about what Engle recently quoted me for a split grind using two of their standard lobes with my selection of LSA.
The cam for the 2110 that I had Engle grind was an FK10/87 114+3.
I ran it for a short while before adding the supercharger, but I spec'ed it for the supercharger.
It was about perfect with dual 44's shifting at 7200 and quite similar to the prior FK87 108+2.
I obviously did not do my homework in depth enough because with the supercharger the peak HP and torque moved up.
How much the HP peak moved I am only guessing since it was still pulling hard at 7200.
Big oops on my part, 270/276@0.050 was too much.
If the rule of thumb (500 RPM per 10@0.050) is correct and taking away some for increased displacement, I would guess that Daniel's recommendation should drop HP peak RPM about 1250 and the greater exhaust split and less LSA should carry it.
But what do I know, I didn't get it right to begin with.
It will be interesting to see how much effect going from 45@0.050 overlap to 30@0.050 has on boost.


Since Daniel grinds cams for a plethora of engines and applications from model A's to supercharged V8's and also for VW NHRA Super Stock I would think he could get me in the ballpark anyway.

[Alexander_Monday]

Daniel Powell emailed that my custom cam should ship next week.
I have been remiss in working on the car on the weekends because I was down about the delay.
Worked some in the shop this weekend and realized just how much other stuff I should have been working on.

Lathed the ID of Comp Cams 4798 small block Ford crank socket to fit a type 1 crank and parted it off to shorten it so the set screw would catch.
It has 2 imperial keyways, 1 a little too big for the 6mm Woodruff key and one too small.
I have a 6mmX6mm HSS blank coming to grind it to a shaper style profile and hopefully I can cut the smaller one to 6mm but it will be a chore.
It has a 1" stud for the degree wheel to go on to.





I have a 17-1/2" X 1/4" steel pizza stone I got on FB for $20 just to make a degree wheel out of.
Unfortunately, my lathe mill combo will not allow me to cut the center hole unless I take the lathe chuck off and I would have to realign everything which I just did to make precision bushings.
I ordered a 63/64 carbide hole saw (we all know they cut a little big) to make the center hole and will file it to size if needed.
I will be able to mill the degree marks and mill circle slots toward the outside on both sides.
The reason for the circle slots is I was intrigued by this style of degree wheel that does not need a pointer attached to the engine.
He holds the patent on it but doesn't have it commercially available:





I will CAD and 3D print an adapter for this adjustable level to mount to:





The precision bushings I mentioned are for revision two of my cam profiler (like a cam doctor).
The first version had noise in the readings due to dial indicator shaft play when the cam turned and emf from the pwm motor controller.
I took some lightly used lifters and lathed aluminum plugs to go in the pushrod end to get a flat surface.
I need to part them off to shorten them a little but did not have time.
The precision bushings I will lathe close to size then hone so there is as little slop as possible.
The indicator shaft will set on top of the lifter so there is no sideways force on the indicator.
I now have a closed loop stepper motor in place of the DC gear motor and encoder so I can go to a position and stop there to get a reading before moving to the next.
Working on the software.

I am done with Accusumps for prelubing before starting, tired of cleaning up the back floorboard.
The first one I had lasted a long time before it started leaking.
It finally got small scratches in the case.
I honed it and put in new o-rings but it started again not too long after but had no visible scratches.
I bought a new one that started leaking after a short amount of time and it has no visible scratches.
The first one I had lasted a long time before it started leaking.
It finally got small scratches in the case.
I honed it and put in new o-rings but it started again not too long after but had no visible scratches.
I bought a new one that started leaking after a short amount of time and it has no visible scratches.
I have to either drill and tap the sump for an AN8 fitting, or maybe the type 3 dipstick block off for the feed to the prelube pump.
I am thinking the type 3 block off because it is cheap and replaceable in case I screw up.
I have a Weldon 9200A transfer pump to use.





I have a low restriction one way valve to use to prevent any flow from the main oil line back to the engine.





And a Canton in line filter to put between the engine and the pump and a larger one to use instead of the oberg screen filter.

[Piledriver]

The accusumps never had hard anodized bores IIRC... just bare aluminum.

I have an excellent use for old KYB or eve Bilstein shocks. (steel body at least)
I used some KYB shock bodies as reservoirs on my squareback front Bilsteins I made, allowed me to shorten the shocks 25mm while having a little more travel. Didn't find the need to add flow controls, it just worked with a SS brake line.
(Bilstein 6000 series 36mm racing shocks with proper Heim joint ends welded on, the KYBs were std KYB fronts for a T3)

Fox shocks bodies are hard anodized aluminum, the "truck shocks": are thick enough to cut the OD to use as coil overs, same as Fox coil overs...

I like the pump setup. Still feel a properly designed accusump style setup would be simpler.
A steel or hard anodized aluminum large bore shock body could work, even if you filled it with an on board air compressor prior to use...

(once you take apart KYBs you won't buy them ever again, they saved money at any cost, its amazing they work/last as long as they do)

[Alexander_Monday]

Well I have learned a lot.
First the 12K miles original so Engle lifters are not all exactly the same OD ot necessarily the same from end to end.
I picked the best 4 out of 16 I had and lathed down some aluminum plugs.
The ID's were not exactly the same either.
I installed the plugs and then cut the lifters shorter for my cam profiler.
Lathed brass stock down to make sleeves for the lifters to slide in.
Drilled them to 23/32 then bored the first one to .002" too tight.
Took 50 in and out with a ball hone to get it just perfect.
Some of those were partial depth from one side to get the hole ID to the lifter profile.
Absolutely no slop but just enough clearance that gravity will easily work.





Got the center hole in 17-1/2" x 1/4" thick steel pizza stone for the SBF crank socket that I modified for a Type 1.
The 25mm carbide bit worked great and I only had to file a little to 1".






Hope to have time to try to enlarge the small keyway to 6mm, hone the 3 other bushings I am making, mill the circles around the pizza stone for the level style degree reader, and at least start cutting the degree marks.