Another blow thru 1600 build

[woodsbuggy1]

I could be mistaken but I believe that type of boost controller is more of a "controlled leak" instead of overcoming spring pressure, it is plumbed the same as my EBC following Tial instructions. I believe both types work fine they just function differently.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!!
Kenric

[Clonebug]

Well.....I'll be darned......I was thinking it would probably work that way but if it doesn't have a tiny air bleed hole then it is correct.
My Tee has a .060" hole drilled into the Brass Tee to let out the air on the wastegate side of the spring once you get off the boost.
It was a simple piece to build but did cost about $20.00 in parts to make.

[John S.]

Just another way to do it. Mine cost $15 from Amazon.

[John S.]

Any secrets on keeping my O2 sensor alive. My analog Autometer gauge wasn’t reading on my last short joy ride. Maybe the ride was too short? But I’m guessing I’m too rich.

[madmike]

Hate to say it, but I haven't had to get a new O2 sensor since switching to My PLX ,Clonebug turned me on to them Hey since he's got all them Bells&wishels he doesn't need his anymore
Cheers,Mike

[Clonebug]

Do you have it mounted between the 10:00 and 2:00 position?

Any other position than that area will allow condensation to get into the sensor on startup and will kill the sensor.

It should be maybe six inches max from the outlet of the turbo and on the high side of the exhaust pipe to stay dry.
It also needs to be hooked up to ignition power and the engine started right away so it doesn't get shock cooled from the moisture in the exhaust.

I have the same sensor since installing the PLX in 2014 and it has 46,000 miles on it.

[John S.]

Mines under the turbo, in the up pipe. When the engine been sitting and it cold, it doesn’t start right away.

[madmike]

So it's Before the Turbo, I think it needs to be on the discharge pipe You can see mine

[Chip Birks]

Mines under the turbo, in the up pipe. When the engine been sitting and it cold, it doesn’t start right away.

This will give incorrect readings. Back pressure has an effect on what the sensor outputs. I saw 10+% years ago when I installed sensors pre turbo, compared to the sensor after the turbo. Move it to the downpipe.

[John S.]

I guess I’ll have to try the down pipe.

[madmike]

Did ya see the wideband thread overthere on slamba? we'er waitin on them xperts to chime in,, so far ,,nix /nothing

[John S.]

I figured maybe I would get someone with some weird experience over there. I saw your post. I’ll probably order the bung from CB Performance. Since they have the jet doctor back in stock, also. Not sure when.

[madmike]

Hobby shop near you? If so Brass tubing,Make your own ,, I get the bungs from FLAPS or Jegs/Summit
Chickin $hit xperts over there ,,,I like what John C wrote

[John S.]

I messaged John, but he didn’t respond. I just had 3 guys from at my food truck window from a local German speed shop, with a Dyno. He told me that under the turbo is ok. But, I’m still moving the sensor.

I’ve heard of people using spark plug non foulers for O2 sensors. And I saw a guy on tv weld in what looked like a lug nut. I guess their regular 14x1.5 thread.

[Clonebug]

Most O2 sensors that I know of take an 18 mm thread.

If or when you move it to the dump pipe....you will need to make sure your dump pipe is long enough that you don't get a false reading from reversion of fresh air.
I would make sure you have at least a foot if not 18 inches of exhaust after the sensor. A muffler would help keep fresh air out too.

Also make sure you have your sensor clocked in that 10:00-2:00 position so no moisture can get trapped in the sensor end and ruin it. Keep it as far up the outside of a bend as possible.

This position has given me very good results with high mileage using the same sensor for years.