Mileage, 113,825 miles
Driving season ended about 3 weeks ago. the rains finally came and it went from a high of 80 degrees and dry in mid October to heavy rains for the last week and then yesterday a Northeaster with 24 degree temps and 40 mph winds along with a few flakes of snow blowing sideways!!!!!
No acclimation for this old body....just slam it from cruising at 80 to granny gear instantly!!!!!
At about 5000 miles my low water indicator light finally stayed on when not moving so I took a pic of it. It's the red light on the #4 button on the top row. The tank holds about 1.0 gallon and since 2000 plus miles were the trip to California it took over 2000 miles of normal local driving to drain the tank enough to turn the light on steady.
Had a decent season of driving this summer with about 5700 miles of travel. It sucked having a rotor strip again but other than that it's been a trouble free summer and the miles have piled on.
My dash has worked great along with the new ECU and PMU. I added my turn signals, hazard warning light, Bright lights indicator and just in the last month the wipers now work through the new keypad with the PMU supplying power for the low and high speeds. This is the default dash I use when driving locally but I have another one with even more info on it. I'll populate a couple more when I have time to play with them this winter. I would like to add and altitude gauge but right now I just display a barometer which gives me real time kpa. If I can figure out the formula for a function I can then have it display realtime altitude.
I also have a screen that displays all the amp loads for each operating circuit. I can see what all 16 outputs are putting out as I drive if needed. I'm pleasantly surprised how little some outputs require for running. The coil and ecu use so little they don't even register but maybe 0.25 amps if anything at all. Maximum load for everything running is around 27 amps. Well under the 55 amps the alternator puts out.
I still have 3 or 4 outputs I can use for something else but as of now everything is working good.
My project the last week or so has been to get my IAC valve mounted and working. This is the Peugeot IAC Valve I picked up from some Eastern Bloc country in 2020.
There is very little room on my intake so I put it on the back burner this past winter upgrade due to time constraints. Since I now have time and my wipers are done I thought I would tackle it.
I just got the pieces tacked onto the intake Monday afternoon and have test fitted it tonight. Everything fits in the allotted space plus I can still bolt everything together so I'll take it to work tomorrow and get it finish welded and then painted up and installed.
Mario is making a harness with plug for me so I'll install that once I pull the body to check things over this winter. I'll probably throw it over the body and test it first to make sure it works....then pull the body.
I have my start and cold running tune pretty well dialed in whereas I just have to give it about 3-4 % throttle when turning over and it fires right up and will idle with 4% TPS..... then I can immediately back out of the garage and leave for work. It will idle on it's own once head warmup temps hit about 120 degrees although it will be a little slower than normal.
With the IAC Valve I should be able to have instant startup with only having to push the ignition button and the start button. That is the goal......we shall see.
All warmup enrichment is off once head temps hit 130 Degrees F.
TimsACVW texted me that my 68 swingaxle trans is rebuilt and ready to pick up. I now have a spare in case anything goes wrong with my 67 transaxle.
I'm tempted to buy some more stroker parts and build a 2074 with the spare case I have sitting on the shelf. I have the 92 TW P/C's in the garage already along with a standard/standard 69mm crank I could send in to get C/W-ed and stroked to 78.4mm. I also have a set of 40X35.5mm heads I picked up for cheap this spring in Portland that would probably suffice for a boosted engine.