Wally wrote: ↑Sat Oct 04, 2025 12:49 am
Probably not many people that have that exact combo running before you to share that..
You can call CSP as they sell the Wasp.
Or just try it and if it doesn’t fit, reposition the oil filter with an adapter.
If it only just touches a little, there are many different oil filters, some are way smaller in diameter I know from experience
Yeah, I think you are right.
Maybe give csp a call than.
Can also use a remote filter with a proper oil thermostat.... spin on adapter or simply fab a simple outlet for the filter location from some thick aluminum scrap and a barb or swagelok fitting. That way is usually easiest to run cooler as well. Return oil to main oil gallery by the pulley.
If you have one of those remote line cooler mount adapters it's trivial to drill and turn into a loopback so you still have the stock overpressure bypass working. Best use for them. CSP also used to sell a low profile loopback for the oil cooler mount.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Can I ask a suspension related question.
I am also converting the irs springplates for 944 adjustable ones.
did a muck up, but I am not yet satisfied.
Placed a 5mm ring (washer) to the inner side off the torsion plate then placed the the inner rubber to clearance
the adjusting (heigth) bolts of the 944 sprng plates.. They still rub a bit against the torsion tower. Did you guys clear the adjusting bolts on the 944 plates,
to give a bit more clearance?
The second question is did you place an extra pivot ring on the inside of the trailing arm, (on the chassis side) to get the trailing arm a bit more out,
so that it better fits the 944 spring plate.. To accommodate the 5mm washer on the spring plate..
I think otherwise it looks like I have to bent the spring plate to much to match it to the trailing arm.
Has been awhile since i looked, went with the early turbo alloy arms on my square, made sure to put any nut I could on the inside, but do not recall any obvious way to assemble it "wrong". The adjustable spring plates were worth it in my case as I made up some coil overs from Bilstein and Fox parts, as well ad KYB bits abused as external resis for the front, gave me a shorter shock and same travel. My torsion bars are all mounted "unloaded" at rest. (t3 front bars are splined too)
The T3 also has fabricated sheet metal shock towers etc, so not really same as T1 except from 20 feet.
I do recall doing some plasma cutter work for bolt and access clearance.
On a T1 you might be ahead with the adjustable arms from EMPI et al...
The the alloy trailing arms provided ~no benefit, other than having mounts for the 911 style parking brakes and Brembo calipers. (The 911 parking brakes can be added on the steel arms too so you don't have to fight a ratcheting-somewhat self adjusting parking brake setup)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
I did the research on this years ago. Unfortunately most of that knowledge has faded with time. I remember the inner spring plate bush needed swapped from 944 part to beetle part, with a spacer. Then the spring plate adjuster nuts needed thinning down, plus a bit of chassis grinding to make it clear. A bit off here & there. Sounds like you have the spacer mod but are left needing the clearance grinding. The outer retainer can be cut down 944 part or the dual plate beetle version (has spacers as stock), plus maybe some extra spacers.
All of that made me decide to keep the beetle spring plates but I did clearance one of the mounting holes with a round file, so I could use the 944 camber adjuster / sway bar mount. So although the ride height can’t be fine adjusted, i can adjust the camber & use a 944 rear sway bar.
Small update, machined down the adjusting bolt 0.5mm and grinded the locking bolt a bit down. It now clears the the inner part of the shock tower.
So seem to functiun like this. Hope the tow in/out is adjustable a bit.
Otherwise I have to shim the trailing arm with a shim.
Thanks
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