Shortly, I will have the magnesium 915 tranny out of the 1303 and I'll make a picture of it next to my spare 412 transmission. See how those will compare (or not). My guess is the nose cones line up very nicely, but the top mounting will pose an(other) problem..
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi in a streetlegal 1303
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
hi , func412, look on the audi 80 1990 mt 5 trans, i thing she can doo a very good job , for the412 ,,plus look the shifter rod,,on this audi ,, albert
thast i thing , func 412, i got one audi80 mt 5 trs ,last 4-5 years with the 5 cilynder motor , and the motor and trs are on the lenth of the car not samething golf or jetta, on transversal ,and i think that take only plate adaptor for the 412 motor and you keep the audi cv joint they geeve 32 degrées angle if my mémory is good the 412 cv joints is 28 degrées i have the shart diagram for all the vw cv joint degrées angle , with audi ,,cv,, joint geeve more angle it is front weell drive , on the 412 with long moovement on the suspention that make betther but i d,t know the dimention for the axel shaft i thing it is bigger ,,but not sure ,, but you can look ,,, if you want the ,,cv joint shart and drive shaft dimention i can send you on your ,,pm,, and the shifter was very smooth ,short and fast and the dimention of the audi trs, was appx the same ,, i said you that by mémory ,, you can find on the web audi trs sellers or in your région in the scrap yard ,,, goode luck ,, and excuse my bad englih ,, albert
oh, func 412 , you can look too for the porsche 911-912 ,, the trs,mt5 is bolt,on on the 412 motor , with small adaptor and modification ,, for the shifter and the support
OK, you'll probably laugh, but the Euro equivalent of the US MoPar Omirizon was the (Chrysler Europe) Simca Horizon...I think they used the same shifter system on it. If I can find an Omni/Horizon in the yard here I'll snap a pic and send it along for ideas. It's doable, though it'll be interesting getting through the rear axle carrier beam with the shifter rod.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
MGVWfan wrote:OK, you'll probably laugh, but the Euro equivalent of the US MoPar Omirizon was the (Chrysler Europe) Simca Horizon...I think they used the same shifter system on it. If I can find an Omni/Horizon in the yard here I'll snap a pic and send it along for ideas. It's doable, though it'll be interesting getting through the rear axle carrier beam with the shifter rod.
Well, this sounds familiar. In Finland we didn´t have Simca, but Talbot Horizon. As far as I know, the engines were not the same than in US, propably not transmissions either.
VW bug enthusiasts uses Talbot horizon front brake calipers, because they bolt on to type 1 and are bigger than original VW ones.
Ths is what I got yesterday, a Toyota shifter. The next thing is trying to mount gearbox in its place and to find good shifter cables. I was suggested to buy cables ment for boats to find good lengths.
My question as well. Cable shift is very....spongy and imprecise. Actually there is nothing wrong with the 411/412 shifter. The problem is is the ball bushings and rod linkage of the original.
It is pretty easily correctable. The problem with using another shifter is...will this shifter you are you are using fit the shift gate plate of the 412 which must be kept. If you use a different shiftplate....the tranny will not shift properly. But the ball and 4 bolt plate mount look promising.
If you really want to shift well in a 411/412...regardless of the tranny type (o91 or 004)...you need to properly stabilize the location of the tail cone and the movement of the whole driveline package. It is because of these two things....that the factory shift rod linkage required that floating ball and socket. That socket...and the plastic disc/plug...that caps the tunnel where the shift rod exits the body toward the rear of the car....is a weak spot that must be adjusted for each tranny/tailcone lcoation. Ray
But why would you want to work with cables for shifting operation?
I want to relocate the shifter closer to the steering wheel. I must say I don´t know how this story ends, but I just try my idea. The side shift of the 091 tranny must have made me think grazy solutions.
This is a hobby, so why not to try something inspiring =)
I wouldn't dare stop you! That shifter unit does look very cool.
So...you want to relocate the shifter closer to the steering wheel?
Ah. That explains the thought behind the cable.
Ok....in that respect...the object is to get the cable to mimic a solid rod.
In that way...it is similar in need...to a bowden tube. To be accurate.....it will have to have a "framework" of sorts at the rear so its movement returns to the same centered location with the same arcs and throws.
The cable..will simply be the actuator. Use the thickest cable you can find.
Or...as you seem to not be averse to cutting and fabricating....think about this: Use a steel box to lift the existing shifter say 4" higher. This changes the pivot point...making the throws...some 30-50% shorter. Thats a good thing. Since now the shifter will be too tall.....you will need to cut it...right?......or maybe simply heat and bend it...so it reaches closer to the steering wheel....AND has a shorter quicker throw. Ray
The cables shown in the link would be pretty flimsy for your use as they are designed for push pull only. You would want a cable capable of handling torque as well. It would need to be larger and counter wound as well to handle the torque, with one wrap being right handed and another being left handed.
Of course you could rig up some system using two cables, one for the fore/after movement and one for the side to side movement. This would actually have some advantages in that each could have its own degree of amplification allowing for a very tight shift.
I haven't been keeping up with this thread, but what about using universal joints from a steering column to get the offset you would need?
Thats a good idea.....or....like I mentioned....maybe simply a custom shift lever. Since it appears.....that the main idea is to get the shifter lever closer to the steering wheel (please correct me if I am wrong)....why not just leave the shifter where it is, shorten the throw (really easy to do)....and crank the lever to the left midway up...and it gets much closer to the wheel.
As I also noted, the stock shifter guts themselves...have absolutely no problem. All of the slop is in the linkage at the rear junction where the shift rod meets the ball and tube coupling. That is also not too hard to fix. Ray
