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The solution I have works on all 4EAT and 5EAT Subaru autos, both the FWD models and AWD models (that become FWD).
Trust me though, this thing is huge. It will fit in a Vanagon but buggy or beetle forget it unless you are prepared to move your IRS pivot boxes outwards, move your frame horns outwards, fabricate new IRS trailing arms to suit and chop through your torsion bar and re-weld some reinforcement back in.

I guess the other way could be to use longer trailing arms like 3 x 3's and weld new frame horns in wider or something, leaving the IRS pivots where they are? This moves the whole engine and trans rearwards.

Here]s the various lengths of Subaru transmissions
From the top to bottom they are :
1. 4EAT/5EAT AWD
2. 5MT AWD
3. 4EAT FWD
4. 5MT Subarugears 2WD

I expect our reversed auto to be slightly longer than the 4EAT FWD at approx 750mm.



Here was my effort to fit it into my Manx at the start of all this

A little persuasion with a hammer should have all it all good!

sounds about the same size as a Mendeola S4, which is 836mm.

Width remains an issue....look at the big oil pan on the auto. Manual transmissions don]t have those. The pan is physically too wide to fit between the frame horns. I'm sure it can be worked around but let's not pretend it can just slot in.

Leatherneck - I need your dimensions to be explained more accurately please. Right now I don't have a definitive starting point to model the back of the Honda engine. I'm unsure if your dimensions are from inside edge to inside edge of bolt holes or center to center. If they are inside edge to inside edge, I need the diameter of the holes so I can calculate what the center to center dimension is.

I also need to understand perfectly what your starting point is to measure out to each bolt hole is. Is the starting point the hole that is cut out in the center of the adaptor plate? And have you measured the distance from that hole to the edge of each bolt hole? If so, what is the diameter of the starting point hole that is cut out in the center of the adaptor plate?



I need you to also measure the distance between each bolt hole like you did with the top two at 132.24mm please.

A friend of mine is working with Kennedy for a new GM V6 adapter plate. Kennedy machined a thin piece of sheet aluminum and sent it to him with a center punch for him to add the new holes. Perhaps that may be a more reliable solution than the present scenario?

Center punching a piece of sheet metal and sending it half way around the world would have to be more innacurate than simply providing accurate measurements with digital verniers as outlined. I'd like to know how Leatherneck would accurately punch the crank center...that would be a challenge Might as well just ship me the VW adaptor plate and flywheel, I can model it from that.

All I need is for the measurements to be provided with arrows both ways so I know where they are measured from. What's been provided is a good start, but it's only half the information. Every measurement needs a start point and an end point. If they can be provided as outlined you'll see how quick and easy it is to do. I can email the adaptor plate diagram to Leatherneck so he can print it out on his printer and hold it up to his engine/adaptor plate to check for accuracy. We could be machining next week.

ttriebler wrote:Center punching a piece of sheet metal and sending it half way around the world would have to be more innacurate than simply providing accurate measurements with digital verniers as outlined. I'd like to know how Leatherneck would accurately punch the crank center...that would be a challenge Might as well just ship me the VW adaptor plate and flywheel, I can model it from that.

All I need is for the measurements to be provided with arrows both ways so I know where they are measured from. What's been provided is a good start, but it's only half the information. Every measurement needs a start point and an end point. If they can be provided as outlined you'll see how quick and easy it is to do. I can email the adaptor plate diagram to Leatherneck so he can print it out on his printer and hold it up to his engine/adaptor plate to check for accuracy. We could be machining next week.

Sorry, been out of pocket. How ever you want to do it, you tell me. Whatever I can do to help this and any other evolution evolve works with me.

Leatherneck wrote:

ttriebler wrote:Center punching a piece of sheet metal and sending it half way around the world would have to be more innacurate than simply providing accurate measurements with digital verniers as outlined. I'd like to know how Leatherneck would accurately punch the crank center...that would be a challenge Might as well just ship me the VW adaptor plate and flywheel, I can model it from that.

All I need is for the measurements to be provided with arrows both ways so I know where they are measured from. What's been provided is a good start, but it's only half the information. Every measurement needs a start point and an end point. If they can be provided as outlined you'll see how quick and easy it is to do. I can email the adaptor plate diagram to Leatherneck so he can print it out on his printer and hold it up to his engine/adaptor plate to check for accuracy. We could be machining next week.

Sorry, been out of pocket. How ever you want to do it, you tell me. Whatever I can do to help this and any other evolution evolve works with me.

No sweat. Sent you the drawing by email for the dimensions I need. Basically the distance from the edge of every hole to the edge of every other hole. This way I can cross reference everything when I draw it up. Also, the diameter of the large hole cut out of the center (because that]s where you]re measuring some of your distances from) and the diameter of each bolt hole drilled in the adaptor plate, including the 4 x VW ones.

Once this is done, I will put the 2D drawing of that pattern up here with dimensions for future reference. Then we]ll get on with the 3D modelling.

Dimensions are great, but to have an accurate pattern with them as a backup is always a good thing to have; even when you have original drawing to use it is good to know what tolerances/tolerance buildup are happening (build perfection to original design is a dream not a reality). The adapter & ancillary pieces (e.g., flywheel, starter, etc) I got for my Cologne V6 engine to an 091 was a fairly tight fit as I remember.

Ol'fogasaurus wrote:Dimensions are great, but to have an accurate pattern with them as a backup is always a good thing to have; even when you have original drawing to use it is good to know what tolerances/tolerance buildup are happening (build perfection to original design is a dream not a reality). The adapter & ancillary pieces (e.g., flywheel, starter, etc) I got for my Cologne V6 engine to an 091 was a fairly tight fit as I remember.

Given that we can digitally measure to within 0.01 of a mm with calipers these days, it's pretty easy to get it correct, as long as time and patience are taken with the measurements. This is why I ask for measurements between every bolt hole on the block and every other bolt hole on the block - it gives you the ability to cross-reference as an automatic double check that you are putting things in the perfect place. We managed to do LS1, Ecotec, VW Type 1/4, Holden 253/308 V8 all in this manner and they all bolted on perfectly first time. (phew) We also get the engine owner to print out the pattern from our model onto thick paper, cut it out and physically mount it to the block with the bolts. That's where you triple check that everything fits correctly before machining expensive pieces of aluminium.

I still fail to see how you could accurately put a needle-point center punch stamp in the middle of a 12mm dia hole and then expect to get the pattern perfect. I know I can't judge the center of a 12mm hole by eye and punch it exactly in the center.

ttriebler wrote:
I still fail to see how you could accurately put a needle-point center punch stamp in the middle of a 12mm dia hole and then expect to get the pattern perfect. I know I can't judge the center of a 12mm hole by eye and punch it exactly in the center.

Imagine if you will, a world where we have a punch that has an OD of 12mm and then a small point on one end in which to mark the material.

I know Australia is a bit behind the times, but I figured you guys would have center punches by now.

fl_buggy wrote:

ttriebler wrote:
I still fail to see how you could accurately put a needle-point center punch stamp in the middle of a 12mm dia hole and then expect to get the pattern perfect. I know I can't judge the center of a 12mm hole by eye and punch it exactly in the center.

Imagine if you will, a world where we have a punch that has an OD of 12mm and then a small point on one end in which to mark the material.

I know Australia is a bit behind the times, but I figured you guys would have center punches by now.

Bahahahaa we actually have digital verniers and computers with 2d/3d drawing software down here. We have moved on from center punches.

I imagine the chap with the Honda engine and adaptor plate doesn't have a 12mm center punch either, since the USA, where he is, still uses the imperial system, whereas most of the rest of the world moved to metric. Talk about behind the times.

Let me know when you figure out what size center punch he could use to accurately mark the crank center on that adaptor plate. He's likely got that in his toolbox.....looks like about an 80mm one.

He may have a 7/16" though

fl_buggy wrote:He may have a 7/16" though

7/16 is closer to 11mm