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I can get an AEM filter, there cheap enough. My nozzles are small ,DO1'S
So on the controller I'm looking at a start psi of 10psi with my target boost of (21psi). or 1.5 bar.

I can set the max psi of the pump too ,so gunna set that to max from the get go. Its 250 psi, nothing these days is it.

They say the more pressure, the finer the atomization. Just might check the flow at that pressure to see what your actually getting.

The AEM controller and others like it will either control the motor speed or control the solenoid by pulsing it to regulate how much water you get. You usually put a big nozzle in it to allow the controller to regulate how much water you use.

I follow RB Racing's theory and don't want a failure point so I use positive engagement and regulate my flow with a nozzle. I use a D01 at 4.0 lbs boost and add the D02 at 9.0 lbs to give me 3.0 gph at full boost.
Checking the website calculators I am right where I need to be for my hp and boost targets.

There are many ways to do Water Injection. Build and install what works for you.

had hassle with it today, haha, testing whether all 4 nozzles are spraying on a static engine obviously floods it with water, So wet plugs . No good doing it on your own . Needs 1 to press prime ,and another to look down the carbs to see if all 4 are spraying water. I'll retest it tomorrow. Has to be done tho. you never no if 1 or more nozzle is blocked. Hope these DO1'S aren't too big.

Why didn't youtake the nozzle's out for testing?

You could've hold them in a plastic bottle or something.

I used to run (4) 50ml/min nozzles, one in each intake runner. I also run a 4-channel CHT gauge and could see when one of the nozzles was getting plugged up. That was the biggest problem with running 4 small nozzles (other than all the extra plumbing), they plug up easily. So I switched to a single larger injector upstream of my TBody and all is well.

Did you run any sort of filter in the system?

I cant remove the nozzles without a lot of work removing carbs etc,
Had it running today, solenoid is working properly no vac pulling fuel in. I'D recommend the clear pipes ,you can see what the coloured fluid is doing ,draining back etc.
SO, It has dulled it down a bit ,I guess the D01'S in each port are slightly too big. I'll set the water to come on at a higher psi see what happens. Maybe more boost will equal it out. I'll also set the full psi on the pump to a higher psi. Stuck at 1.3 bar boost at the minute.
I noticed the Aluminum TEE pipe from the turbo to the carbs is heating up.
Intercooler next.

buguy wrote: ↑Wed Jul 31, 2019 10:15 am Did you run any sort of filter in the system?

Yep, and a solenoid to close under vacuum. I didn't want to spray water/alki into my carb tops with a single upstream injector back when the engine was carbureted,those nozzles are really small. I think it was minor corrosion as much as anything else.

I too used to inject into the hat. Its a very bad idea. The carb starts to corrode

So,today ,I've advanced the timing by 4 degrees ,This has woken it up, Done it 2 degree at a time. Will continue increasing till it complains.

GC,

How are your LEDS set up? I have the AEM kit and it only has wiring for one led, is yours the same?

Also what is your timing at at full boost?

Thanks
Schweg


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I also have led bulb . I have it located on the dash next to the gauge pod, I'm always looking at the boost gauge so thought it best to fit the bulb next to that.
Timing is 10* static and 26* total. The water means I can increase the total, I've not explored the total timing limit yet.
For anyone thinking about it , 1 D01 Nozzle per port is ok, the water start psi has to be in the 10psi boost range so that it doesn't soften the power.

GC, thanks I get the led and I have one mounted up, though I’m thinking it’s current position isn’t ideal.

Are you currently running 26* at say 1.3 bar?


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26* is a lot! I think I started at 17 or 18 and started inching up from there. No water injection but I think E85 gives similar results.