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VdanielW ........link to the pads if anyone else needs them ?

Let me get them tested first- I don't wanna recommend something that really doesn't work. I'm getting temperature readings today of the intake without them. I'll do the same after and hopefully the cold driveability will be corrected.

My Welder was up for Deer hunting and stopped by ,, so I gave him my spare Chassie shop intake to weld a oil chamber on it ,,hope it works like my RLR one those pads look like our grip heaters for snowmobiles hope they work for ya

Just a little update- I decided I needed some before install temp readings so I've been measuring at the carb manifold, center section left, end casting left, center section right, and end casting right. From what I saw on the temp readings, the problem is the right side center section is cold (this is the longest leg on the center section that runs under the generator stand). I saw a temperature differenct from left to right side of anywhere from 10 to 20deg's. I also can safely say the temperature of the carb manifold makes no difference. In fact, it never changes temperature from ambient. I have added two of the little heating pads to the right side (passanger side/cylinder 1&2). It started raining yesterday, so my temp readings aren't going to be the same conditions as the temp readings before the install. I'll wait a few days and continue testing. My guess is I'll need to add all 4 pads to the right side before my cold running load up issue is taken care of.

I haven't had much time to run testing, but it's clear two of these little pads is not enough. I was going to try and put some insulation around the intake so the heating pads wouldn't loose heat around them, but I will have to pull my intake center section out to do this, so it will have to wait a little while. I'm planning at the start of next summer to pull the transaxle out and have the internals checked and some gearing work done, so I'll get it set up with the other two heating pads and an insulator wrap at that time. In the mean time, if anyone is interested in trying it out:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ICSTATION+FL ... nb_sb_noss
The ones I'am using are:
But I would suggest seeing how much space you have and how hot you want it to be.

I doubt any amount of those pads will keep up enough to show any difference. There is a lot of air movement and that will take any heat those pads will make without raising the intake temps any noticeable amount.
If you used them like a diesel engine heater for starting by leaving the key on for 30 seconds you could gain a little heat but as soon as air started rushing by they wouldn't be able to keep up.

Yeah, they were the lowest temp pads they offered. There are some that get over 200degF. They may work better. Switching them on with a thermostat attached to the intake tube. And really, for me here in the desert, it’s only needed for a month or so. Not too big of a deal.


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It has been a couple of months since my last post so I figured I could give some more updates. The cold weather load up has been a consistent problem, but I have lessened it by richening up my idle adjustment- the complete opposite of what I was expecting since it was loading up (too much fuel). So after studying on it and trying different things, I noticed if I kept it slightly richer the idle would stay slightly higher and steady. If it was leaned out it would have rolling idle and the vacuum would drop- this is when the load up would begin. By keeping the idle higher and richer the engine is able to use the fuel rather than puddling up. It still will load up at a longer cold idle, but is no where near as bad as it was.
I have also made a few little changes to the progression and power side of the rods. Instead of 73/42 and 73/37 with two silver springs, I've leaned out the progression from 73/42 to 73/52. I was noticing with the previous rods the initial afr when going into progression was good, but if it stayed in this area for long it would start going rich. So now my cruise setting is on the 73's, progression is 73&52, and power is 52&37 all with a .098" jet. I have also changed the non-stretched silver spring to the pink spring, which comes on at 7"hg.
Nothing else really to report. I hit 5000 miles on it so I did an oil change and am still driving it daily. Lovin it!
I forgot to add this- my mallory box has begun to fail on me. Noticed on my last trip back from Orange County it had a misfire above 3k. After some diagnostics I bypassed the box and the misfire went away. So now I'm running just my pertronix coil, stock 010 distributor (with points) and am regulating my boost to 5psi- sucks, but with no timing retard 5psi isn't horrible- it ain't great, but I will survive until I figure out what I'm going to do next.

Even 5 psi on a 2276 has to be fun.

Hey Dan,What Mallory box was that ?

The 685. Hyfire VI, I do believe is the number.


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I'm looking for the one that has a Vac/boost port that pulls timing back, did that one do this?

Yes it had timing retard under boost using an external map signal.


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Ya,That's the one I'd like to find,/try,, I heard they are pretty reliable

I’ve had mine in use for about 10yrs. There is a place called mag tech ignitions that rebuild them. I sent them a message on their site, but I haven’t heard back. I’ll give them a few days and then I’ll call them. I’m sure it’ll be cheaper to rebuild my box then buy the msd box that has the add on boost/timing retard switch.


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