2270cc type 4 EFI Turbo: my first engine build

[split1950]

I think I'll fit the lowest boost spring too (the ~20PSI Red one is in there, not a good idea for the first boosted setup)..

Who told you that?

It's on the forge website https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/T2_Ac ... --128.html
T2 049 (Small) Actuator Springs:
Green – 10 psi (0.7 bar)
Purple - 13 psi (0.9 bar)
Yellow – 15 psi (1.0 bar)
Blue – 18 psi (1.2 bar)
Red – 20 psi (1.4 bar)

[rubenski]

I was just kiddin'!

[split1950]

D'oh! Can I cite jet lag as an excuse for being a bit slow there? lol

[Wally]

I have the smallest spring in there too and even that was a little too much for my liking for initial test and tune of the maps...
For optimum boost respons, I agree, a 15psi spring is better then a softer one, although theoretically, with a 4-port ebc, the spring pressure should not be an issue.
I'am rambling LOL!

[split1950]

I have the smallest spring in there too and even that was a little too much for my liking for initial test and tune of the maps...
For optimum boost respons, I agree, a 15psi spring is better then a softer one, although theoretically, with a 4-port ebc, the spring pressure should not be an issue.
I'am rambling LOL!

Yeah this is new territory for me so a bit of caution at first is the way to go.
My EFR7163 has a built in boost valve / controller, I have to admit I'm yet to figure out what to do with that second port on the actuator.
In fact, that second "side" / bottom of the actuator is not really sealed except for the phospher bronze bush on the shaft (the "normal" / top side is - it's a piston type with O rings). Then the shaft bush to actuator housing interface is not sealed at all, except for a push on dust seal on the shaft. So I'm not 100% certain how the second port works with this potential "leakage".
Now I'm rambling

[Wally]

Yeah, the supplied boost valve which sits on the turbo should work fine. Just follow the installation manual for it. Its not much different then any 'regular' boost valve you see when you google the general EBC schematic online.
That said, I just used the 4-port I already had ordered and left the boost valve on the compressor housing alone..

I don;t follow your description above without a picture, sorry.

[split1950]

Yeah, the supplied boost valve which sits on the turbo should work fine. Just follow the installation manual for it. Its not much different then any 'regular' boost valve you see when you google the general EBC schematic online.
That said, I just used the 4-port I already had ordered and left the boost valve on the compressor housing alone..

I don;t follow your description above without a picture, sorry.

Here's what I mean.
The second port / bottom of the piston side is not sealed, so I think this won't work - it will leak boost out the shaft area. I've contacted forge to check they shipped the right thing.

20190723_132704.jpg

20190723_132720.jpg

20190723_132735.jpg

20190723_132928.jpg

[Wally]

Yeah, see what you mean now. I would also have expected the smaller diameter spring retainer (so to speak) to have been firmly and leak free attached to the bottom of the housing... Other then that, it should work and looks like a really nice and versitile piece of kit.

[split1950]

I'm sure there's a way to seal that end. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

[split1950]

The actuator had to go back for replacement, it was not going to be controllable as it is not sealed. What a shame, I like to buy UK made stuff where possible.
Whilst I'm waiting for that, I started building the header.
I mocked it up on CAD to look like this

Accurate remake of type 4 header.png

The pipes are all equal length (give or take a cm or two) into the Y collectors.
I've started cutting bends ready for tacking it all together, cutting the 304 Stainless is a PITA, I'm using an air body panel / cut off tool and getting accurate but slow cuts.
I got these nice stubs with 42mm outlet ends from Turbo Thomas here in the UK (and a big box of bends)

Header stub pipes Turbo Thomas.jpg

[Wally]

TT surely makes nice exhaust parts!
I used Ahnendorp's stainless header (same design) on my former engine: worked well too, despite that some eyes sheared after longer (turbo use). The advantage of their one-piece design is the extremely good ground clearence of the BAS header.
Make sure you pair the cylinders 1/3 and 2/4 for the twinscoll turbine housing, but I think you already was gonna do that

[split1950]

TT surely makes nice exhaust parts!
I used Ahnendorp's stainless header (same design) on my former engine: worked well too, despite that some eyes sheared after longer (turbo use). The advantage of their one-piece design is the extremely good ground clearence of the BAS header.
Make sure you pair the cylinders 1/3 and 2/4 for the twinscoll turbine housing, but I think you already was gonna do that

Yes Richard's stuff is nice, and he's a helpful guy.
Initially I had hoped I could get the CAD models bent up out of 4 tubes, but getting someone to do it is another story.....
I'm going to try to support it where I can, I'm considering flexible joins somewhere near the turbo. The trouble is I'm doing all this 3 hours away from the car so that's why I'm not committing to final things just yet (tacks can be cut easily enough). I've used an educated guess for the header, I'm worried about the rear apron clearance. Also, I kept the tubes "up" by the crankcase, < 20mm lower than the casting, so ground clearance should be OK.
Yep, I've got 1+3 & 2+4 paired - it might be hard to see from the picture, on CAD I can rotate it lol.
BTW forge are making me a true dual port (diaphram type) actuator

[Wally]

BTW forge are making me a true dual port (diaphram type) actuator

Now, thats way cool!
But shouldn't it be already that way? Weird that you are the one to ask this as reputable tuners world wide use these.
Kudos to you though

[split1950]

BTW forge are making me a true dual port (diaphram type) actuator

Now, thats way cool!
But shouldn't it be already that way? Weird that you are the one to ask this as reputable tuners world wide use these.
Kudos to you though

Yes I was dissapointed that I needed to ask.
It seems I'm good at finding all the problems. TBH in my "real" work though I've made a lucrative career out of fixing other peoples Engineering mess lol

[split1950]

So I started making the pipes from my CAD design.
Cutting the SS304 is a PITA, but I'm really pleased with how #1 has come out, especially considering it is the most complicated pipe that I started with.

20190809_No 1 front.jpg

BTW that collector is not welded, I need to trim the output end back so if a weld fails in the future it is accesible (currently it would not be).

20190809_No 1 top.jpg

. I had been advised by Turbo Thomas to use "ears" and bolts to hold that together rather than weld it, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea considering my Turbo application? My gut tells me to seal it with a weld.
This weekend I'll make a start on #2, then I'm ready to try it in the car for clearance to the body (so far everything is done virtually in CAD) as my gearbox and chassis changes might have shifted the engine more than I realised. The car is 3 hours away from here @ Deluxe Metalwork so a road trip is on the cards soon.