Going under the knife

[Max Welton]

I think this rod bearing is for a .25mm smaller journal.

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Max

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Max, the reason I mentioned the miking was because of the small slightly off-center scuff wear area on the bearings shown in the pix. Was the block and rods also mike'd for being round? Sometimes only the center area of the block and rods are measured but not the off-center areas also, this is to ensure of things being round.

That is why used blocks should be carefully measured as you don't know what they have been through.

Lee

[Max Welton]

This was a new universal case in the early 2000s when Steve Hollingsworth set it up for me with bronze lifter bores and the full-flow return tap. It has been many variations of 1776 all this time with the same Berg CW crank.

Steve is looking at close pictures of the bearings right now.

Max

[Max Welton]

I do wish Steve wasn't 960 miles away though.

Max

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I do wish Steve wasn't 960 miles away though.

Max

Thats how you keep good friends

Lee

[Max Welton]

So the case is STD and the crank journals are .020 under.

Bearings ordered. Fingers crossed.

Max

[Max Welton]

A good day. Hung the drivers door.

And yes, they are late doors on an early car. They were the best doors I had.

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The mechanisms are covered with what looks like rubbing compound. What's the best way to clean that off?

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Max

[GS guy]

Doors look good Max!
On the latches, are they bare steel under the gray-ish coloring? Or have they been sand/bead blasted?
For bare steel my go-to is cleaning grade vinegar from the local grocer. It lightly etches the metal and removes all surface rust. It also leaves a dark "smut" film on the parts which can easily be rubbed/scrubbed off - leaving a surface clean and ready for primer & paint. Lots of nooks and crannies on those latches though, old tooth brushes should get most of that. I usually etch in the vinegar overnight, scrub then etch some more to get an even dull gray finish all over. Scrub and rinse down with water, then do a quick flush with Iso alcohol and blow dry. Ready for primer!
Jeff

[Max Welton]

I think these were plated ( zinc ? ) from the factory. I just put one in some lacquer thinner to see what happens. Someone over on tos suggested Eastwoods pre painting prep but I couldn't get that over the counter.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pre-p ... -prep.html

Max

[GS guy]

Yea, if you plan to do any painting a thorough cleaning & de-greasing is priority 1. I usually use the Zep brand citrus based degreaser for general light degreasing, mineral spirits for heavier gunk and grease removal. Scotch pad to help scrub and lightly abrade the parts for better paint stick. If I'm working on steel (and aluminum) parts, after final clean water rinsing immediately flush off with the Iso Alcohol and blow off to quick-dry and avoid new rust. FWIW my favorite spray bomb paint is Duplicolor, usually the etching primer followed by engine paint. Seems more durable and quicker drying than others I've tried.
Eastwood does make some zinc/chromate looking paints, have never tried them though.
Jeff

PS: likely the parts were zinc plated originally. The zinc is a sacrificial layer to protect the steel, and it too oxidizes over time, gets dull and "powdery" looking. Just doing its job, but not the preferred look of freshly plated parts. You could probably have them re-plated, or just clean, scrub and paint.

[Max Welton]

I like the duplicolor stuff too. Looks good on engine tins.

Last week I placed my bearing order with John Connally but they are on backorder. But I was picking up some welding today and my local guy had some Silverlines in the right size. So tomorrow I start reassembling the engine.

Trying to have the car drivable by the end of April. That will give me May to work the kinks out.

Max

[Max Welton]

Spent the day cleaning the case, oil pump and ARR.

Tomorrow is a social day. Friends coming over to remind me what being around nice people is like. And with a few minutes of extra hands, the trunk lid will get attached.

Max

[Max Welton]

Had some extra hands today and got the rear lid bolted up.

The lid stands about 7.26 mm above the surrounding body. But the slots in
the hinges run fore and aft, not up and down. I don't think there's 7.26mm
vertical available without altering the hinge.

Now the entire rear of the car has been reconstructed using sections from
several donor cars so it's entirely possible some things are off
dimensionally.

I know STF isn't really full of type-3 people ... but ... Any thoughts?

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Max

[GS guy]

Possible to lower the hinge at the pivot point? Love that color!
Jeff

[Max Welton]

No adjustment at the pivot point. Just a fixed post that the hole in the hinge fits over.

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Max