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Think I found the issue... hopefully... Engine constraints. Clicked on required fuel, calculator is set for a 1500cc engine, flow rate wrong too. Changed to proper 1776cc, and 24lb/hr injector flow... That would explain the doubling of the fuel required. Now, just need to revert to my previous tune to fix the VE table. This makes me wonder what else might be messed up.

Sounds likely the root cause. The “required fuel” number is the starting point of the calculation.

Right. And the reason why the engine will die with any throttle movement. My VE table is (was) completely jacked with those constraints. I'm hoping I can finally get this thing on the road. Mario reached out and is going to help me tune the engine. He can connect to my laptop and tune the engine remotely... Very cool.

Locked the timing at 10 degrees to verify the trigger angle. Adjusted, set to 5 degrees to fine tune it. Turned off the timing lock... Cranked engine over... Still measuring 5 degrees. Is that normal?? Plugged in the injectors and started her up. Started much easier this time, timing is advancing normally. Is it normal for the trigger to stay locked like that, even though it's off??

Not sure I quite follow. However the advance during cranking is a separate setting and typically set to 5deg. Once you get above the max rpm for cranking, the spark map takes over.

Mick from Joeblow stated "If the timing is set to a fixed value, it will stay that way until you change it. Those changes persist after a reboot as they are burned to memory." Which makes sense, as it would not change from 5 degrees until I turned "off" the fixed value (to adjust the trigger angle) and crank the motor. After that, like you said, the engine started and the spark table took over.

Perhaps related but there are times I need to unplug the laptop for the ECU usb socket, as well as key off, to reset the ECU. The ECU brain will remain powered via the USB cable otherwise.

Yes. Even after turning the ignition off, and unplugging the USB to power down the ECU... the 5° remained after turning the key back to ACC. I think that is by Speeduino design.

Another frustrating weekend with this car. She's cold starting ok. WUE seems close. Get her up to running temperature, start Auto Tune... But won't start due to "O2 sensor calibrating" or "O2 out of range". The AFR gauge in TS seems to be reading ok?? Why can't anything ever go my way?!?! Sent an email to Mick, didn't get anything back until 3am this morning. He's not sure what is going on... Decided to bleed my brakes again. This time using a Motive Power Bleeder. That thing is awesome!! No more spongy brakes. Also aligned my front wheels. Gonna try hitting up Mario this week, see if he has any input to my O2 woes.

If it starts cold but doesn't start when warm...first try giving it throttle when turning over. If it starts then it is too rich on your cranking settings. Your afterstart could be too rich too.

I ended up pulling a "LOT" of fuel out of cranking and afterstart from default in order to get it to start nicely.

I now have an IAC valve and it starts hands off every time.

The best thing to do is start a log then turn on the key.....wait until the O2 sensor warms up or calibrates....then start the engine in order to get a cranking and warm up log.
Watch how much fuel is injected at prime and cranking compared to idling......it should be about 100% more than normal idle.
I would first deduct fuel from cranking and then start pulling fuel from WUE.
Another area to watch is "Afterstart Enrichment". It only works for a certain amount of time or cycles depending on how it is set up....it could easily be adding too much fuel right after starting and making it look like cranking fuel is too high.

You have to give the engine what it wants...with your indution it might need more or less fuel than default.

Please remember the defaults are for a V-8 engine which is not even close to what a VW engine needs.

All the warm up, cranking and afterstasrt settings are based off a correct warm idle and cruise tune......you must get the warm tune really close first before messing with anything else due to the WUE being a percentage above the correct driving tune.

All great advice above.

You may need to check / setup (again?) your WB O2 settings in TS. Certainly the default in TS for speeduino didn’t match my WB module. Some modules use 0-1v signals & others use 1-5v. You can see how getting those mismatched could generate the out-of -range error

Thanks for the pointers guys. Have not started the car since having the O2 woes... Needed some time to ground myself, was ready to tear the EFI kit out and throw it in the garbage. After bleeding my brakes, I lowered the car back down and broke both my rear air ride hight sensors. Been meaning to reinstall them better anyway, so nows the perfect time I guess. Parts on order.

Bruce.m wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 12:13 am All great advice above.

You may need to check / setup (again?) your WB O2 settings in TS. Certainly the default in TS for speeduino didn’t match my WB module. Some modules use 0-1v signals & others use 1-5v. You can see how getting those mismatched could generate the out-of -range error

Not sure why, but TS gets stuck in Auto Tune "O2 calibrating" or "O2 Out of range". Been racking my brain trying to figure out why it gets stuck... I've already re-setup the O2 sensor voltage levels. No fix to my problem. Any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm at a loss, and so is Mick.

Which O2 sensor do you have or is it an internal one hardwired into the ECU????
I’ve had great results with my PLX O2 setup. I highly recommend them.
You might want to go over your wiring setup and make sure the power and grounds are correct. Also make sure your sensor grounding is hooked up correctly….I know on MS setups there is a dedicated sensor ground for them.

To be honest, I have no idea. I tried searching my orders on Amazon, and found a Bosch 15733... But don't recall purchasing it as it looks to be delivered with no connector.

Edit: Just remembered, I bought a Bosch O2 sensor from AutoZone... Haven't had any issues till recently. May be removing it and cleaning it with carburator cleaner... Although, the AFR gauge in TS is reporting ok which add to the confusion.

I will check my wiring and have a look at the grounds. Auto Tune was working previous to the recent ECU firmware update. Thanks Clonebug!