New guy, new build

[Clonebug]

I just checked a log in 2016 and found a boost run with an ambient of 100.3 degrees at cruise...which translates to something close to what you are experiencing. My boosted temps with W/I are quite a bit lower than yours though.
I am seeing boosted IAT's of 145 degrees at between 16.0-20.5 lbs boost.

[chriswillrise]

I just checked a log in 2016 and found a boost run with an ambient of 100.3 degrees at cruise...which translates to something close to what you are experiencing. My boosted temps with W/I are quite a bit lower than yours though.
I am seeing boosted IAT's of 145 degrees at between 16.0-20.5 lbs boost.

Welp then the science of water taking out heat isn’t working for me it’s spraying, it’s getting dispersed evenly since it’s pre turbo and I’m using a nozzle that is spraying more than I should be using. There is literally nothing left for me to try, if you have any other ideas let me know

[chriswillrise]

I just checked a log in 2016 and found a boost run with an ambient of 100.3 degrees at cruise...which translates to something close to what you are experiencing. My boosted temps with W/I are quite a bit lower than yours though.
I am seeing boosted IAT's of 145 degrees at between 16.0-20.5 lbs boost.

It’s pulling out like 70/80 degrees of heat so idk if it can take much more out

[buguy]

I saw a boosted temp a couple of days ago of around 153. It climbed to 160 just after i got out of the throttle. That is 93 degree ambient temp, and a temp of about 120 pre boost. This is with a tiny water to air intercooler and 25 psi of boost.
I haven't done any back to back test, but it seems like for me, the IAT's are higher the more i lower my timing. Interestingly enough, the lower my timing is, the cooler the CLT seems to be reading. So higher intake temps and lower CLT. Odd!
My old small engine with lower compression never even came close to these temps. I think about 135 was the highest i ever saw with that one. And that was on 30 psi of boost.

[Clonebug]

I think I mentioned before that you could try a Tee shaped intake instead of a split Wye. I've read somewhere that the Tee is better for boosting and W/I.
If you have any fab skills it shouldn't take you more than a hour or two to make one and it would be a cheaper test than a nozzle.
In my mind a Wye will allow the droplets to slide along the walls in the curve and turn back into big drops while a Tee will create turbulence and keep the droplets small and in suspension.
Using my favorite calculator I estimate you are making approximately 210 cr. hp at 5000 rpm if you have a 2165 and 16 lbs. boost at 190 degree inlet temps. You should only need about 2.0 gph for that hp range...or a 2.5 gph.

My W/I takes off over 100* F. of heat. With the intercooler installed it takes another 30-40 plus degrees off. I never see IAT's higher than 100* F. except maybe when I go to California but I never really do a log when driving long distances. My cruise temps will see 110 degrees or higher in high ambient's but if the water and boost come on it goes down immediately.
What I have done is set up my MAT retard to take out some timing if my ambient or boosted temps get higher than 110 degrees. That way I don't have to modify my whole timing map to compensate for the excessive IAT's that only happen for a month or two out of the year.

High MAT has not been an issue since I installed the dual nozzles and the Audi V6 TT intercooler. It took me a long time to work through it....and a couple sets of P/C's.........

[rubenski]

Quite a lot of problems with IAT's with you guys, i may be only 1641cc and 14psi boost but no issues whatsoever with temps.

Or my intercooler is super efficient
Or my setup is spot on
Or my tuning is spot on

Not to bug on you guys in any way.

Just wondering why I don't have thos issues

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

[Chip Birks]

Quite a lot of problems with IAT's with you guys, i may be only 1641cc and 14psi boost but no issues whatsoever with temps.

Or my intercooler is super efficient
Or my setup is spot on
Or my tuning is spot on

Not to bug on you guys in any way.

Just wondering why I don't have thos issues

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

What temps do you see? I didn't have these issues either, luckily. I'll double my efforts this next build to ensure it doesn't happen either.

[rubenski]

While driving the streets, even under boost I average at 38C or 100F

The hottest we saw on the dyno after 5 runs and the last WOT in forth was 58C or 136F so that was big load on the engine

And that was really really pushing it!

On the street I won't get anywhere near those temps.

Noted I make 222hp wheel hp.


Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

[chriswillrise]

While driving the streets, even under boost I average at 38C or 100F

The hottest we saw on the dyno after 5 runs and the last WOT in forth was 58C or 136F so that was big load on the engine

And that was really really pushing it!

On the street I won't get anywhere near those temps.

Noted I make 222hp wheel hp.



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

I don’t have an intercooler which is why I have these temps

[Clonebug]

Quite a lot of problems with IAT's with you guys, i may be only 1641cc and 14psi boost but no issues whatsoever with temps.

Or my intercooler is super efficient
Or my setup is spot on
Or my tuning is spot on

Not to bug on you guys in any way.

Just wondering why I don't have thos issues

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

IAT's are a result of high boost and high ambient temps. Heat soak will have something to do with it too.

If you have 65 degree air going in your boosted IAT's are going to be that much lower.

In the winter I see Boosted IAT's at 83* F. at 26.0 lbs. boost.

Rubenski......you have at least double the size intercooler most people use along with two fans...That intercooler is probably rated for 300 plus hp if not more...At 70% eficiency it should support anything you put out.
My guess is your intercooler is 4" X 12" X 22".

A bug will not be able to fit that anywhere easily......they will just have to take time to think it out like everyone has to do to make their setup work for them.
Here is a really good calculator........type in your cruise temps and then add your boost amount......use 0% efficiency for intercooler since you don't have one. Ambient air is not a good calculation...the turbo heats the air just going through it.....you need to use what temp your IAT's are after the turbo in cruise. My turbo will add around 20 degrees just in cruise.
At 130 degree IAT's at cruise you would see about 266* F. at 16 lbs. boost. You show 190 degrees so you are removing 70 degrees with your W/I.

https://rbracing-rsr.com/intercoolers.htm

With a good nozzle setup you could maybe get that up to 100 degree drop but you will have to work at it.

It took me a few years to work out the issues with my W/I...... that required 2 Hobbes and 2 solenoids along with 2 nozzles to make it do what I wanted. It was good for about 16 lbs. boost in the summer but in the fall, winter and spring with lower ambient temps I could go up to 20 lbs boost. The intercooler allows me to go as high as I want and still only see around 90 degree IAT's. I don't push it at all when I am in the heat on my long trips to California. I usually limit it to 6.0 lbs boost since reliability is the goal at that time.

[chriswillrise]

Quite a lot of problems with IAT's with you guys, i may be only 1641cc and 14psi boost but no issues whatsoever with temps.

Or my intercooler is super efficient
Or my setup is spot on
Or my tuning is spot on

Not to bug on you guys in any way.

Just wondering why I don't have thos issues

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

IAT's are a result of high boost and high ambient temps. Heat soak will have something to do with it too.

If you have 65 degree air going in your boosted IAT's are going to be that much lower.

In the winter I see Boosted IAT's at 83* F. at 26.0 lbs. boost.

Rubenski......you have at least double the size intercooler most people use along with two fans...That intercooler is probably rated for 300 plus hp if not more...At 70% eficiency it should support anything you put out.
My guess is your intercooler is 4" X 12" X 22".

A bug will not be able to fit that anywhere easily......they will just have to take time to think it out like everyone has to do to make their setup work for them.
Here is a really good calculator........type in your cruise temps and then add your boost amount......use 0% efficiency for intercooler since you don't have one. Ambient air is not a good calculation...the turbo heats the air just going through it.....you need to use what temp your IAT's are after the turbo in cruise. My turbo will add around 20 degrees just in cruise.
At 130 degree IAT's at cruise you would see about 266* F. at 16 lbs. boost. You show 190 degrees so you are removing 70 degrees with your W/I.

https://rbracing-rsr.com/intercoolers.htm

With a good nozzle setup you could maybe get that up to 100 degree drop but you will have to work at it.

It took me a few years to work out the issues with my W/I...... that required 2 Hobbes and 2 solenoids along with 2 nozzles to make it do what I wanted. It was good for about 16 lbs. boost in the summer but in the fall, winter and spring with lower ambient temps I could go up to 20 lbs boost. The intercooler allows me to go as high as I want and still only see around 90 degree IAT's. I don't push it at all when I am in the heat on my long trips to California. I usually limit it to 6.0 lbs boost since reliability is the goal at that time.

Exactly! I might be able to get more with some more testing but I am also in Southern California where it’s been 90+ during all this testing. Also my water meth tank just sits on sunlight inside the car all day so I’m sure the water is well over 100 degrees in the tank. My cruising temps are about 135 when it’s about 95 out. So the meth is taking 70/80 degrees of heat out.

I might try a “T” intake and see if that changes anything. I also have a friend who want to put the IAT sensor in the actual end castings so it’s getting a true air temp right before it goes into the chambers

And also that calculator you use is making the turbo heat efficiency 100% which no turbo is. The calculator I use factors in turbo efficiency and a good rule of thumb is 75% especially for a cheap China turbo like I have. It might be higher is i had like a ceramic ball bearing garret or something. This is the one I use and Mario is the one who told me to just use 75% as a generic China turbo.

https://racingcalcs.com/turbo-boost-tem ... alculator/

[buguy]

If i remember right, the highest i saw with my other engine was 125-130 degrees after a few hard boost runs.
Oddly enough my IAT's were lower on the dyno. 8 hard back to back runs. Very little time between. Not sure if it was because the deck lid was open, or maybe because it was up in the air with a fan on it so the heat exchanger worked better? All of the above?

[chriswillrise]

If i remember right, the highest i saw with my other engine was 125-130 degrees after a few hard boost runs.
Oddly enough my IAT's were lower on the dyno. 8 hard back to back runs. Very little time between. Not sure if it was because the deck lid was open, or maybe because it was up in the air with a fan on it so the heat exchanger worked better? All of the above?

Man I don’t even know how that is possible. My temps are 130 just driving down the freeway.

[buguy]

Mine are now too dude. Around 125 or so. It will be interesting to see if there is a difference when it's not 100 degrees out. Have you tried propping your deck lid open a little to see if it does anything?
Are you getting hot air in through the air filter?

[chriswillrise]

Mine are now too dude. Around 125 or so. It will be interesting to see if there is a difference when it's not 100 degrees out. Have you tried propping your deck lid open a little to see if it does anything?
Are you getting hot air in through the air filter?

Deck lid don’t fit never had one