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Clonebug wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 10:37 pm Push-loc hose is painless and really reasonably priced.....no hole in the fingers either.......

Yeah I love it.
But my pushloc hose on the outlet to my pump blew off and dumped a load of oil.
That’s why I’m doing those two in ptfe now

Think it was too close to the heat of the turbo which is does say not to do in the instructions to be fair

The cars fighting me lol to change those two pipes I have a feeling I’ll have to removing the rear of the car and the turbo and exhaust. Might be able to wiggle it but we’ll see!

Oil filter was stuck on too, knocked in a screw driver to Undo it, which then snapped off flush as soon as I applied pressure lol
I’m sure I only snugged up the filter too as I’m quite aware of that.

Got the temp sensor drilled and tapped into the top of the filter head, Atleast that’s something lol

Removed the oil soaked exhaust wrap too

Drilled a 3inch hole in my tinware for the air filter pipe too

Just a bout to solder in my CANBUS wires to the loom plug for the dash too....


Lots of little bits to day but finished work early so making the most of being at work where my car is!

I've had to stick a screwdriver in them before too. No fun!

buguy wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2020 6:25 am I've had to stick a screwdriver in them before too. No fun!

yeah i really didn't tighten it much either.... put a new filter on now, this one has a HEX on the bottom for un doing it which will be handy if required, its a MANN filter.

i got the oil temp wires ran to the front of the car along with the CANBUS wires i soldered to the MS plug and the wires for the oil pressure sensor to the dash, but i need to extend that.

the dash fits in the glove box just, which is cool.

i've brought back my spare idle valve to see if i have a plug that fits it in my box of bits.

will make the new lines this week and fill her up with oil again and start the tuning process again with the MS3 which i'm looking forward to!

should i be able to blow through my idle valve slightly both ways while its un plugged? i have two VW ones, one i can, one i can't.

my head says i shouldn't be able to and one is broken, but maybe i'm wrong?

Air Filters:

So this is always slightly tricky on hideaway T1's it seems, the only place i can put it is to the right of the fan, and its kinda tight in there.

ive got a 3in hole in the tinware and some 3in ducting from the turbo to there.

Next i searched the air filter company websites, and K&N actually has a really helpful website where you can filter your results but various and multiple size constraints, so i could select to only see the filters that had a 3in inlet and then an overall outside dia of what i wanted (100mm ish) and it came up with a few.

in the end i found one with a 5 degrees off set from the flange which will help me point it away from the deckled and the fan, so it will be angled to the back right of the engine bay, only slightly but it all helps.

i also found it online in a sale so this nice K&N only cost me £16!! normally about £40.

this is the one i ordered

https://www.knfilters.co.uk/rb-0910-uni ... air-filter

i'll see how it goes, its not the biggest filter in the world but once i get it dyne's which will be a while yet i should add. i can test it with and without filter.

i have seen a long tube style foam filter too which is a part for TVR cars that could be a second option if required. but thats only a plan B if required.
Although i now constantly find my self making a plan B as stuff seems to break pretty fast with my luck lol

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i've also been doing some more wiring for the dash, just wiring in the oil pressure & temp and running the power wires. also tidying up where the ECU mounts.

i need to make some hold downs for the charge cooler too. it currently has some handy M8 i think, bosses welded top and bottom i can use which is handy. i'll make a mount from the top of that to the firewall area to hold that securely.

i also need to add a pump and lines for that as when running i can feel that getting warm, although the charge pipe after it is not warm.

for the water pump i'll probably use an AUX water pump which many new VAG group cars seem to have now so that will be easy enough to find and reliable.
i also need a water tank.

there's still a pretty long list of stuff to do. i kinda wish i just went meth injection and a simple intake pipe from the turbo to TB to manifolds and then i wouldn't need all the other crap.... but i'm down that rabbit hole now....

It is kind of a bummer running all the stuff for the intercooler. Once it's done though, it will work great and you won't have to even think about it again. When I built mine, I used a bilge pump for a boat and then mounted it inside the tank. It is 100% silent and I love that. Every now and then I have to open up the tank to make sure it's still working.

buguy wrote: ↑Sun May 03, 2020 5:01 am It is kind of a bummer running all the stuff for the intercooler. Once it's done though, it will work great and you won't have to even think about it again. When I built mine, I used a bilge pump for a boat and then mounted it inside the tank. It is 100% silent and I love that. Every now and then I have to open up the tank to make sure it's still working.

Yeah i saw yours and had a look on ebay what did you search to find the cap? something nice and big you can pour ice in would be cool but probably only use it a few times

That was my thought too (although mine has never had ice yet). It was also helpful for getting inside to mount the pump. It is a Marine screw in deck plate. You can get them in various sizes.

buguy wrote: ↑Sun May 03, 2020 6:10 am That was my thought too (although mine has never had ice yet). It was also helpful for getting inside to mount the pump. It is a Marine screw in deck plate. You can get them in various sizes.

Thanks i'll look into it

is your tank below your cooler? does it drain back? IE fill the tank to full then leave it like that, don't let it run then top it up once it fills the lines and cooler encase it flows back and overflows when the car is off?

I think the tank probably is lower than the cooler. I've only had to fill it twice (I leave it all connected when I take the engine apart/out now). What I do is fill the tank, then turn the pump on via TS, then top it off and put the lid on before I shut it off. Really though it doesn't matter much because the cooler doesn't hold enough to push water back. Even if it did, it's a 1200 gallon per hour pump. As soon as it turns on it would push water back to it. Every time I have ever looked there is water in the lines back at the cooler even when it's off. Also its never had water come out when I've opened the lid when the car is off.
I have mine set to come on at 1200 rpm and intake temps above 95 degrees. It draws a lot of current so I don't like it on at idle.

buguy wrote: ↑Sun May 03, 2020 9:26 am I think the tank probably is lower than the cooler. I've only had to fill it twice (I leave it all connected when I take the engine apart/out now). What I do is fill the tank, then turn the pump on via TS, then top it off and put the lid on before I shut it off. Really though it doesn't matter much because the cooler doesn't hold enough to push water back. Even if it did, it's a 1200 gallon per hour pump. As soon as it turns on it would push water back to it. Every time I have ever looked there is water in the lines back at the cooler even when it's off. Also its never had water come out when I've opened the lid when the car is off.
I have mine set to come on at 1200 rpm and intake temps above 95 degrees. It draws a lot of current so I don't like it on at idle.

cool, and you just have MS giving a signal to a relay to run that pump on? got a cooler in it? seems alot don't actually use a cooler as its not needed alot of the time?

Yeah. MS triggers a relay to turn on the pump at whatever parameters you want. I definitely have a heat exchanger. It's hot as balls 11 months of the year here. MS does the same for that. I have it set the same as the pump.

this car is really testing me at the minute! its fighting me every way.
brought a timing gun to verify the timing as its not starting, just giving the occasional very loud back fire.

timing gun wouldn't flash on cranking...... tested it on my motorbike and it works fine.

Then i remembered MS3 has test mode. so i fired the coils and the timing light works great (ruled out insulated plug leads ect)

after a while i remove the plug and crank over and get intermittent spark.

i had this before and i moved the sensor closer and cleaned it off and it worked.

no dice this time. after playing with the sensor and pretty much having it a a fraction from touching it still won't spark and now not sparking at all on cranking...... erhhhh

my crank trigger setup is a drilled flywheel, it worked for EDIS which is very tolerant.

trigger logs show it as messy and I'm getting alot errors while cranking.......

i give up and i'll just buy a crank trigger setup that goes on the pulley and has nice square edges.