Shoptalkforums.com

In that case it looks like needing to either enlarge the mounting slots in the hinge (agreed there doesn't look like enough meat to work with for the required drop), bend the hinges, or shorten/section the hinge by removing a 1/4" slice and re-welding. Make the hinge fit the new trunk/bodywork!
Heating and bending the hinge would be easiest - if you have an acetylene torch and can determine a good bending spot. It'll screw with the mounting hole alignment/angle though. Of course, any of these options will ruin the paint, but it's only a hinge.

Before starting to hack the original hinges, maybe get some scrap steel and make some test hinges? Presuming they're just flat steel. That way to can try out what you "think" will fix the problem and perfect the idea(s) before attacking the originals.
Jeff

GS guy wrote: ↑Sun Apr 10, 2022 5:14 pmshorten/section the hinge by removing a 1/4" slice and re-welding. Make the hinge fit the new trunk/bodywork!

Yeah, that's kind of where my mind is going. Unfortunately the guy who did the painting passed away in February so the hinges will probably wind up black.

Anyways, today was an engine day. The case is sealed.
Max

WRT your decklid - see if maybe your too-small washers are hanging up on the slots in the hinge.
There is some up-and-down in the slots there you might be able to use.

Past that, get out a rotary file in your die grinder and waller out the slots a bit sideways enough to get your adjustment.

Otherwise,
Just act like they're standoffs...

Hard to tell from photos but decklid looks like at needs to close further? The hinge will have some slack to tip the bottom edge outward, so it has to pivot more before latching. Could the latch itself need adjusting? Is the lid flush at the bottom edge currently?

Little slow posting up. With bigger washers I was able to get it close enough for 'gubment work. Latch not attached yet.
Max

Got the left rear fender out of the rafters. Can't find the air box seal so I've ordered a fresh pair.
Meanwhile I'll hang the fender temporarily to get a bead on my tire clearance. Remember that I've had the short axle conversion done and the wheels I have are my old 4.5" ET44 Mangles. I just haven't found a wheel I like in the width and ET I want.

There is an advertiser on tos selling deep-dish wheels based on stock centers. Hoping he'll make me a 6" pair at an ET I specify.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... id=1470031

I'm thinking of trying the chrome-look powder-coat that eastwood sells. Looks great in their ad. Local shop is willing to shoot some for me.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-extre ... owder.html

Max

Life intrudes in the form of furnace and garage door issues. One down and one to go.

I did take some rear end measurements and had a flurry of emails with "Joe" who sells the deep-dish wheels. We agreed on a wheel size and backspace and he will contact me tomorrow on scheduling.
My heads are still downtown so I can't really get very far on the engine. Although I did set the crankshaft end-play and torque up the flywheel. A buddy made me a crankshaft seal driver from some scrap round stock.
Max

Moving along on the engine ... got to the point of fitting up the under-cylinder tins and had to stop and fix one. Cracked where they always crack.
Max

Max, buy looking at several things would you have room to weld a doubler in the area? One because of the crack and two the reflection of the radius showing a potential flat spot.
Things might be OK but just something that drew my attention. When you see a notch that has fairly square corners on an upper surface and a arc notch on the other side of the bend that draws attention to but when it looks like the bend might be flattened/thinned out (reflection) then I would look at things a bit harder.

Again, an opinion.

Lee

Working on engine assemble today. Just came in to rest my back.

Solid rocker shafts shimmed ... check. Tedious job that.

Under-cylinder tins fitted up and wired in ... check.
I really like how type-3 under cylinder tins fit.

Under head air dam for the 3/4 side fabricated ... check.

Head torqued to spec... check.

It's almost a long-block.

It's almost 90 degrees at the house and blowing pretty hard. The forest is tinder-dry so we really hope nobody lights anything.
Max

Work on the engine is stalled. The switch to type-3 under cylinder tins drives a switch to type-3 sleds. The type-1 sleds have a bump that interferes with the under-cylinder tins. I have an order in to ISPWest.

While I'm waiting for those I will concentrate on getting the body panels on and other non-engine things.
Max

The sleds have shipped. Now the type-3 sleds will (hopefully) solve another problem. The tabs on the CSP heat exchangers that reach over to the sleds do not line up with the captured nuts in the type-1 sleds.

But the little ones at the rear have the same problem. Screw it.

Chop chop, buzz buzz.
My welding is getting better. I'll put some black on later when the primer is dry.

Max

Allow me to be perfectly clear. This sux.

Decided to take a shot at assembling the popouts using Brents nicely illustrated instructions.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... 07#5994107

First thing I did was unpack the frames. They aren't the right frames.
So now I'm scrambling. Without the rear windows, I can't even trailer this car to the Invasion.

Max

Well the new sleds came in today from ISP. And they are exactly the same as the sleds I already have.

So after I scared the cat a little I set about modifying the sleds to clear the cool tins.

And since I had the welder out, I fine tuned the heat-exchanger to sled tin tabs.
Some friends are coming over tomorrow so the engine will get picked off the bench.

Max

You need bigger flat washers, but as I have a square I cannot help too much with your rear trunk lid.
Good to know the doors are swappable early to late, all latch/locking mechanisms too?
(I always liked the early door handles etc)