Shoptalkforums.com

If the dashboard lambda gauge is working that implies the sensor & module is working.

Don’t clean the sensor with chemicals. Use a blow torch and carefully burn off the soot. Don’t get the sensor too hot (not glowing!!) or you will kill it.

Thanks Bruce_m. Sent my last log to Mick... I guess the O2 sensor isn't working correctly in the log file, seems to work ok on the TS gauge. Will be cleaning, reconnecting and reseating the connectors on the ECU... Fingers crossed.

Fixed/repositioned my broken height sensors. Shouldn't snap when lowered from my jack stands anymore.

Had a chance to look at some things yesterday. Created a new project within Tuner Studio. No change to my problem, O2 sensor still not calibrating or is out of range. Removed the O2 sensor and started ohming stuff out. Turns out pins 3 and 4 are open, should be around 3.5ohms. This is the heater circuit, probably why it wont complete calibration. Its an LSU4.2 (P/N: 0 258 007 057), looking at Amazon, I bought one from them back in 2020... Automotive Leader brand, probably made in China. Ordered a Bosch one, which is nearly 3 times as much. Fingers crossed this fixes my problem, I've pulled out almost all my hair at this point.

Does the sensor connect direct to the ecu? Or via a separate modue? I’d check the output from the module, if the driver circuits are not inside the ecu.

Thanks Bruce_m. It connects directly to the ECU. My only gauge is within TS. Got the O2 sensor changed out... We're back in business. AFR readings are now correct. Forgot to mention, the gauge I was looking at was "Target AFR"... Of course that's gonna look correct. Changed the input value to Air Fuel and voila... Dead readings. Anyway, off to bed. Working 10s so don't have much garage time this week.

Finally able to work on the Ghia a bit last weekend. During the down time, I generated a new VE table. Starts up after a few cranks, stumbles to life. Much better throttle response than before... But the engine still dies after letting of the throttle after a (maybe 3000rpm) rev... Do I need a blowoff or a bypass valve?? Im really starting to wonder. Seems like idle is really good after WUE completes. But after revving the engine, it always wants to die. As if it were going VERY lean. I will log it this weekend and report back.

To note, I still have not installed the IAC valve (even though its working now). Was wanting to get the car up and running before reinstalling it... Should I go ahead and install the IAC now??

Your best bet is to take a log of a cold start and warm up....you could even add some driving time to it.

My guess of the engine stalling is it is probably going lean in the high vacuum area when dropping to idle. With the blower still force feeding air it can easily be lean.
Either richen up the AFR table in the 20-50 kpa range or just bump up the fuel table to add more fuel.

My engine always wants to lean out in the low kpa areas. I just bumped the AFR table in the 20-40 kpa range and 1500-3500 rpm up to 13.0:1 and let autotune add fuel.
That overrun to throttle crack is a tough area to get just right. Sometimes you just have to give it more fuel..

Getting the Lambda delay right is part of the battle.

Keep the IAC valve out of the equation until you get a good idle tune. Keep the warmup out of it too since that is a percentage of your VE.

Do you have fuel cut switched on?
That stops the injectors when the revs are above circa 1500rpm with a closed TPS. The settings are adjustable & when I had the rpm set lower it would struggle to catch the engine when they kicked back in for idle.

Adding some advance at your lowest rpm cell of spark map is helpful to prevent a stall.

Thanks guys. Both are great tips I will work with. Mick said I probably need to add some timing to that area to keep the engine from dying. No Bruce_m, I don't think I have that enabled. Where is that setting in TS?. I am back at step 1 tuning the engine. Need to get a solid idle, and fix the dying coming off rev before driving. I will tinker around with your suggestions this weekend and report back.

Fuel cut is on the Accel enrichment screen, bottom section.

Been a while. Not much to update... Although I may be on to something. Going back to static suspension I think. We'll see.

xzener wrote: ↑Tue Mar 19, 2024 7:41 pm Been a while. Not much to update... Although I may be on to something. Going back to static suspension I think. We'll see.

PXL_20240320_005633802.jpg

How come? Air too squishy with the supercharger punch?

To be honest, safety. The air ride is nice, I love the different ride heights, but feel static is more safe cornering. I'd like to drive it like I stole it.

Ah gotcha, I've never ridden in or driven a car on air. Very good to know.

Are you going to add/ use sway bars also?

You can change the ride height easily, but you also can/will change the stiffness of the ride (front, rear or both at the same time). Re-setting the ride heights by putting the torsion changes on the front beam and also resetting the rear torsion bars on the rear can also be involved in this.

There is one type of air shock that has fill tube connecting to two together that, if setup wrong (there are a couple of ways to set them up), can make the ride dangerous as the load changes from one side can cause the opposite changes the ride (especially on sharp turns) and ride height on the other side as/if there is no valving between the two shocks. Usually not a good idea!

There are other things to do at the same time to protect the suspension.

Just some thoughts on this.

Lee