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Can’t remember if you had sway bars front & rear but I certainly found adding the rear bar made a significant difference to handling. I’d already put the mounts in but hadn’t fitted the rear bar & the rear was a bit vague in transition which felt like soft bushes (although I have urethane trailing arm bushes)

I do plan to reinstall the front sway bar this weekend... I've seen people install the bar upside down on top of the lower arms giving more clearance for lowered front suspension. Has anyone here done this, thoughts? Pictured below... Looks like a skid plate maybe installed too, so I might be able to keep mine.
As far as the rear, can anyone recommend a good sway bar for the rear? Is this a good product? I could possibly look into rebuilding/reinstalling my Z bar. Not sure if thats possible, I did install a Kafer bar.

I like the idea of the inverted front. I saved a pic from my searches on the subject. You're not the only one doing it.
I have and like the sway bar on my buggy. Due to the Berg mid-mount, it took more creative than usual mounting techniques




Be well. Paul

Thanks for the pictures Paul. I have yet to analyze the rear. I have The Game Changer rear air ride setup installed, which relocates the lower shock mounts... Might end up still using the relocation brackets for rear coil overs. That would put a damper on sway bar installation for sure. I will probably start measuring the rear this weekend to get an idea of what I'd like to do.

The Z bar won’t help as it’s the opposite of a sway bar. It designed to be an extra spring which kicks in if the rear suspension is loaded by a full set of adult passengers. That meant the main torsion spring could be softer. In cornering the Z bar has zero effect.

I used a 944 rear sway bar since the 944 has very similar rear suspension (IRS). Kerscher make bolt on brackets but I made my own.

Thanks Bruce. Thought that might be the case.

Update. Still tweaking the final length. Added an extender, which reduces overall articulation, but I think 3" of up travel is acceptable don't you think? Added an extender so I don't need to modify my beam. Springs came in, installed... good ride height, will need adjusting. Good news, the sway bar should be fine mounted normally, just waiting for the t-bolt clamps. Here is a picture of the coilover at ride height.

Driver side coilover installed. Sway bar as well... Although now I remember the rim clearance issue I was having. With the sway bar properly installed, I don't have full turn articulation. If I fully turn the steering wheel, the T clamp hits the rim. Will have better clearance with the bar flipped and installed on top of the lower control arm. Anyway, here are a couple pictures of the progress...

Try flipping the T-clamps so the bolt is on the inside or underside of the control arm.

Thanks. I will try a couple things. With the T clamps on the inside, they are very close to the coil spring. May not matter, will give it a go.

I agree with flipping the threaded part of the fastener to face down... if possible. The threads also look a bit long to start with; if I remember correctly, the minimum threads showing is 3 but the Tee part, how close is it to things.

Also try the magnifying thing for the pictures that is now available (click on the picture with your mouse twice). It does/can give some more information but something other than a side view shot might help. It was my job for over 35 years to inspect designs before they were in the manufacturing process, so I look at/for things a bit differently because of it.

Lee

Voila! Flipped the clamps. Problem solved. Oh, and Lee, these came with a set of urethane bushings. I used my rubber ones, they are a tad smaller.

Out of curiosity... Has anyone ever heard of solid hardened steel through rods? They (or one) could act like a sway bar, eliminating the need for an external one? I'm no engineer, but seems like it might work. I know I'm in the forced induction forum, sorry for all the suspension talk and questions.

I would think the torsions with the adjusters free floating would do that to a point

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How would the "through rods" being "tied" in place.

Not sure what the term "through rods' are. The term is old and I suspect it has many uses.

Lee

Just looked it up and the word goes back to at least 1850 but the meanings/use probably have changed over the years.



Lee

Yup, if you remove the centre support a torsion bar would no longer hold up the car but would act like a sway bar. Typically the coilover kits used a solid bar with bearings each end to stop the trailing arm falling out the beam but not act as a sway bar.