The Aufgeladen Ghia

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The material mix on a sway bar as is the temper to it is going to be different than a piece of round stock.

This might help: https://www.bing.com/search?

Lee

[xzener]

Yup, if you remove the centre support a torsion bar would no longer hold up the car but would act like a sway bar. Typically the coilover kits used a solid bar with bearings each end to stop the trailing arm falling out the beam but not act as a sway bar.

More or less what I have setup now. I'm using through rods that connect the trailing arms as they would with the torsion rods (grub screws). They allow free articulation and don't effect the opposite side. I feel the car will be dramatically safer using the sway bar.

[V8Nate]

On my air ride setup I left the torsions in to hold the arms onto the beam but left the adjusters loose to free float. If I jack it up and put a block under one tire it will lift the other when I lower the jack but it isn't as fast acting as a true sway bar would act due to the torsions having to twist before it would move. I would think if you added a few more of the center clamps to the torsion pack it would stiffen it

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

[xzener]

How would the "through rods" being "tied" in place.

Not sure what the term "through rods' are. The term is old and I suspect it has many uses.

Lee

Just looked it up and the word goes back to at least 1850 but the meanings/use probably have changed over the years.



Lee

I have a set similar to these... https://limebug.com/product/t1-titan-ge ... ough-rods/ I was just curious if anyone tried solid ones that could act as a sway bar. Gonna keep my sway bar in place.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The through-rods you posted were not what I expected to see. They replace the torsion bars and hold the front spindles within the front beam and do the same for the rear suspension.

The through-rods do no work other than the clamping the front suspension (spindles) together, while the shocks do most of what the torsion bars did.

The sway bars would do some of the work the front torsion bars do and the same for the rear torsion bars.

For the street, ... maybe this would be OK but for off-road... I doubt it. Not sure about racing of a lot of the types of that out there it is probably going to be a toss-up to some and an "OH (nasty word) to others.

Again, the materials mix and the making of the bars is going to be the main players of this. In the making of metal, of almost any type it is not just one material, but several materials mixed together (properly and to proper material mixes [e.g. quantities of each of the materials]) that gives strength et al.

For what it is worth, Lee.

[xzener]

Thanks for that Lee. So, I've been doing some measuring in the rear. Looking for a 13" coilover ride height. I think I found one that will work. Unfortunately, my scale only goes up to 450lbs so I can't measure the weight for the spring tension calculation. Found a 650lbs one... Do you think the rear corners weigh more than 650??

So, here is a picture of my rear shock relocators. Taken from the floor looking up. These are made of bulky 3/8" steel and gives good strength for the weight. Have the torsion bars installed in the rear, minimal spring tension for added support. The upper shock mount is tied to my truss bar for added strength. This setup worked very well for the air ride.

PXL_20240329_230518458.jpg

[xzener]

Bought a fog intake leak tester. The engine has not run right since installing it. Started with removing the air cleaner. Found a leak at the SC inlet. Removed the outlet of the SC, found a HUGE leak where the end cap meets the head. Which explains a fuel leak I couldn't find... I was thinking it was the fuel rail. Fuel was being blown out, which caused the fuel to drip down under the car. Fixed all intake leaks. Engine runs very smoothly with a solid 10lbs of vacuum.

Now to finish the suspension so I can get this thing on the road and tune her.

[Chip Birks]

Glad you got the leak figured out. Stuff like that is super frustrating! Good luck with the suspension work!

[xzener]

Not as frustrating as getting this engine running properly. UGH!! Im so fed up with this crank sensor. Have a Bosch 0261210199 on order. Gonna scrap this Joeblow one and fabricate a different mount that allows for proper adjustment/alignment.

[xzener]

Got her back on all fours. Fixed the leaks... Had a slow oil leak at the thermostat. Bought 3 different crank senors. Ended up using the type supplied by Joeblow. The original was destroyed during my frustrations. No longer have the random tooth loss! Cold start is still an issue, hopefully the IAC will help fix that eventually. Have it blocked off/disconnected at the moment. Engine no longer stalls after letting off the throttle, I assume the vacuum leak was causing that (the smoke tester works great). Tuning the idle, then its time to drive and have Tuner Studio do its magic. Fingers crossed.

[Piledriver]

If you have a megasquirt or such add a column below idle with more timing, will prevent stalls and pull it "out of the hole" so to speak. cranking timing bump if you can. Makes huge difference.
(apologies for not rereading the thread from beginning, awesome build)

Idle timing feature works wonders too, functions ~like a Bosch/VDO idle stabilizer except programmable and actually works.
It can be your main idle speed control except for cold starts. (there is also a cold idle timing feature to add more timing)

I went for a long time with no IAC, in fact ran ages with a CIS warm up air valve for that, worked very well.
Probably going that route on my 86 Cabby MS2 install, as I'm outta outputs, and it just takes 12v from the ignition, has a bimetal strip that controls an orifice. (it already has that valve, so its a gimmee)

[xzener]

I was able to get the IAC installed, and is currently setup open loop. Seems to work ok. Starting the engine cold is getting better. My frustration right now, I believe, is due to the engine warming up and stalling after I rev the engine. I have tried what Piledriver suggested, trying to dig the engine out of the low RPMs, but not having any luck using timing. When it does catch it, my RPMs jump and its hunting until stablizing the idle. Watching what Tuner Studio does while autotune is running. It wants to pull a bunch of fuel out of idle due to my IAT temps climbing. The water/air intercooler works well, but have not included a radiator yet to keep the water temps down. Will eventually add a radiator. But for know, how is the ECU supposed to compensate for higher IAT temps? You may think Im crazy, but I've been using AI (Co Pilot) to help get where I am now. I've learned a lot and made progress, but can't seem to get closed loop working. I honestly don't understand the settings so I don't know where to start. When I select open loop, the engine dies immediately after it turns over. Can anyone help me out? I live in the middle of the San Juaquin Valley California, no where near anyone with tuning experience. It would be great if I could find someone who could help me through the process of tuning my idle and help me get on the road finally.

[Bruce.m]

Idle can be difficult. There are a lot of settings & moving parts involved.
For example, do you have deceleration fuel cut switched on? If the RPM floor for that is set too low, the fuel can reactivate too late to catch the engine on trailing throttle.

If you can get the open loop idle set up in the right ballpark, closed loop will make minor adjustments to keep it accurate in different situations.

IAT vs fuel % adjustment has its own table

[xzener]

Thanks for the reply Bruce. Yes. It's been tricky alright. I have a solution... Gonna run the garden hose through the intercooler. That will get me a cool starting point. As far as fuel cutoff, can you recommend a baseline for me?

As is, TPS Threshold (%) = 1.0, Minimum engine temp = 32F (doesn't ever get that cold here), Cutoff Delay = 0sec, Cutoff RPM = 1500, RPM Hysteresis (RPM) = 200.

Stepper Closed Loop had me stumped.

P(%) = 2.50
I(%) = .50
D(%) = 1.000
Min valve value (% / Steps) = 0
Max valve value (% / Steps) = 0

Is the min/max, is that the stepper position min/max? I tried setting those within tolerance. Still dies right after firing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[panel]

Have you configured this without PID first ? If you're not totally happy with it running it in open loop then running it in closed loop (PID) will probably make it worse.

Also without a rad for the AWIC you'll just be getting heat soak or it'll actually be doing nothing.

Can you post an MSQ and a data log for us to look at ? Maybe Pile or Bruce and myself can take a peek ?

You should be able to make your car run without the IAC valve. I've ran without for many years and have only had mine up and running within the past couple years. I do love it now for sure. It was just wiring/plumbing and picking the right one for my application that was holding me back.