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I see you point Lars, I'll snap a photo of the engine tonight and then I'll post it with comments tomorrow

That wire was something the previous owner also didn't understand anything of, so if we drove Norway-Finland-North Cape-Norway without that wire connected to anything...then I can cruise without any worries.

Anywho, tranny issues are now fixed! Thanks to everyone who contributed with information.

Now that car is back down to earth its shoes planted on again.

I have a small (big..) exhaustleak... it just pours out smoke from under the car and both sides under the rear wheels... have no idea where it comes from, first I thought it was oil spillings from when I washed and cleaned the engine, but now I am sure it's a leak somewhere...any ideas?

Also, one of the reflectors are dead, front lense, drivers side, the one towards the middle of the car. Where can I get a new one?

The inner lights are the high beams, should be the same on both sides, there are some at The samba right now which might fit:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=695794

Have always wondered if the similar type reflector/glasses from same generation BMW's fits...?

/Lars S

Thanks! Sent him an e-mail right now, wonder how much shipping is to Norway. I also heard that BMW E30 headlamps fits..

Yes, those are H-1's. You can get basically the same light with an HB-2.
I have H-4's outer and crystal clear lens HB-2's with 100 watts each on the high beam inners on mine. Ray

Recently changed the outer H1s on mine for H4s and rewired them direct from the battery via relays etc. and they are so much better.

Hella make 5 3/4 inch H4 light units that have the fixing tabs in the correct place, all I needed to do was modify the holder to make room for the sidelight bulb.

Well worth the time and effort to do.

Yes...very nice lights. Ray

this car does not want to get back on the road again ... and I think Murphy drove this car when he decided to make up a new law... full lock on the front brakes on my way to get it "road approved" last friday. Had to cool brakes down with 5 l of water, whish I had brought some eggs I could fry while waitin gfor them to cool down .. the brakes must be dismantled to check for faults..........

Only a couple of things cause that type of "dragging".
(1) Old calipers whose sealing rings and outer boots are stiff and not retracting fully
(2) Improper pedal freeplay on the brake master cylinder.
(3) Sticking compensation port valves in master cylinder
(4) Mixing incompatible brake fluids (DOT 5 silicone with regular types) Ray

raygreenwood wrote:Only a couple of things cause that type of "dragging".
(1) Old calipers whose sealing rings and outer boots are stiff and not retracting fully
(2) Improper pedal freeplay on the brake master cylinder.
(3) Sticking compensation port valves in master cylinder
(4) Mixing incompatible brake fluids (DOT 5 silicone with regular types) Ray

thanks, ray to the rescue

a. I took a pic of Haynes: in (1) are you refering to numbers 5, 6 or/ and 7 in the picture?



b. Before the ride and the problem occured, we did proper bleeding on all 4 brakes, allmost zero airbubbles and also this has never been a problem.

c. Could you please explain further what you mean by "Sticking compensation port valves" in (3) ?

Thanks,

Tp refer to your drawing and my answer #1: it would primarily be caused by parts 5 and 6. The return of the piston to proper "windage" position after each use of the brakes, the caliper depends upon the actual sealing ring inside. It distorts a specific amount during braking and returns to this position upon piston retraction. As the calipers get old and require a rebuild.....which is mainly cleaning and new seals and boots....the internal sealing ring and the external dust boot get hardened with age and no longer allow the piston to properly retract to the correct postion. This can cause dragging.

(2) improper pedal freeplay....if you have put in a new master cylinder...can cause sticking by causing the internal pistons to partially keep a small amount of pressure on the circuit and also because they cover fluid replenishment ports.

(3) Inside of the master cylinder you will find a brass sealing disc under each piston rubber cup. These are "flap" valves that seal off fluid passage under pressure and allow fluid passage past the cup upon retraction of the piston in the master cylinder. With age, they get corrosion on them and may stick to the piston or have improper seal. Ray