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I am looking at the Bugpack 3039-001 2 stage pump for $198.00 bucks. The CB pump fits fine. The syphon aspect works as advertised. I may just open the inlet fitting up and add a 3/4 inch feed line. The other option is the Bugpack pump. I have thought about going back to the wet sump and just use a detailed 30mm schadeck. But for several hundred dollars less, I can just install the Bugpack pump and full flow the case. I will completely bypass the case internal pressure regulator and substitute it for the Jaycee oil filter/ pressure regulator setup. I think i will go ahead and try to work with the CB pump first. I really do not think it is a case clearance issue. I do feel that the detailing and zero lash procedures will help immensely along with a steel cover. I did talk to Pat Downs and he did suggest using a different pump and that the CB pump was for street use motors with stable temperatures. I guess that says it all.

As far as 11.50 with a huge motor, lets look at why, shall we?

fullpan car
1 and 3/4 .132 wall fullcage
mendeola .85 4th on a 5.14 ring and pinion
wasserboxer
735cc cylinder volume with a 48 IDA and 45.5 venturi

The minimum carb size this car needs is a 60mm throttle plate and 48mm venturi, then it would probably do an 11.2

If I change the gear stack to a 1.18 3rd and .93 4th, along with a set of Terminators, I could easily hit 7800 at the end of the 1/4

As it is, with the RPM drop from a 1.22 3rd to a .85 4th it struggles to hit 7100 rpm with a 48IDA

The trans was built by Ranch for a 519 horse turbo motor and a 27 inch tall tire. I had planned on using a SVX 3.3 liter twin turbo, but after a few runs down a country road and wheelying in 3rd gear, I decided to go with an A/C motor. Plus I did not want to bastardize my pristine 67 body. It was garraunteed to go 10 flat at 145 with the SVX motor.

Instead of using the SDSEFI on the SVX, I am going to send it back to Ross at SDSEFI and have him convert it to 4 cylinder use.

I will live with 11.50s this year and 48IDAs. Next year, it is a 1.18 third, and dash tuneable injection with 120 pound injectors and 20 pounds of boost on e85.

So , lets first see if we can get adequate oil pressure at 1500 rpms with a Bugpack 2 stage, as well as, 85 pounds of oil pressure at 7500 rpms.

Once all the bugs are worked out of the wasser boxer, then its back to 26 or so inch slicks and shifting a turbo at 7500 rpm and thats not BS.

I think I will build a 2276 turbo motor too with a $295 crank and rod kit from century distributors. The pistons are $129.00. I think I will just hog out the German heads that are on the core motor, and install 44mm seats and a 37.5 exhaust. Then its turbotime on a budget. I already have turbo prepped 44IDFs and a T3

The crank I have in the wasserboxer is a Bugpack 88mm flanged all type 4 main crank with 6.3 Sachette rods and 3/8th rod bolts. Even with that, it is not advisable to twist anything over 86 stroke to any more than 7500 rpm shifts. This is if you want a motor to live. Instead of incredible valve spring rates, beefed up roller rockers, and roller lifters, you are better off with no more than a 270 effective at .050 cam and a nice turbo injection system, and K800 springs. Non of the other high dollar items are required for a turbo motor that is rev limited to 7500 rpms. And like I said, if i did it all over , it would be a 2.1 liter block with stock bearings, a oversized type 1 thrust bearing, with a wedgmated 86mm stroke 4340 crank. I would use the cheapest superflow heads I could find and turbo the motor. I f i threw a rod, i would just get another crank and rod set up from century for $295 and do it all over again. The best money is spent with intake, exhaust, turbo, and injection. When you shift at 7500 rpms all the rest is over kill.......................

One more thing. I still have a DPR 90mm wasserboxer crank. The flywheel bolts are sheared off and it will need to be dressed with a new flywheel. If i use 5.7 rods with 5/16ths rod bolts, i dont have to clearance the cam very much. I guess I may have to find a 2.1 liter case and get the sawsall out. I like the CB cam 2288 it is 256 effective at .050 and .383 at the cam. Its good from 1500 rpm to 7000. Then it is just 4 inch P and Ls, and a used set of Superflows. Thsi would make a really good sandrail motor for the coast of Oregon. 7 to 1 compression and a T3 turbo with 44IDFs.............

jackstraw wrote:An old racer trick for collector length is to paint a stripe lengthwise along the collector pipe. Where the paint stops burning off is where the stinger or muffler would go.

Not an effective or accurate method.
The paint never burns off all the way to the end, so if you start with a pipe that is
"too long" and keep repeating the "test", you will end up with a pipe that is too short.

I wasn't clear, maybe. You don't keep repeating the test. It was just a trick. Not rocket science.
After market header collectors , and I'm speaking only of the Am stuff, are generally too short with the flange collectors and the reducers.
No worries.

3literboy wrote:
I had planned on using a SVX 3.3 liter twin turbo, but after a few runs down a country road and wheelying in 3rd gear, I decided to go with an A/C motor. Plus I did not want to bastardize my pristine 67 body. It was garraunteed to go 10 flat at 145 with the SVX motor.

So you had the subaru engine in the car without bastardizing the pristine 67 body,then took it out again to not bastardize the pristine 67 body? I dont understand

cheers richie

The motor he was considering buying was installed in another car.
He drove it//test drive.
(That's what I read, YMMV )

He decided not to hack up his pristine 67 to make it fit, likely a wise decision for several reasons IMHO.

Piledriver wrote:The motor he was considering buying was installed in another car.
He drove it//test drive.
(That's what I read, YMMV )

He decided not to hack up his pristine 67 to make it fit, likely a wise decision for several reasons IMHO.

Ah ok,that makes a little more sense thanks

cheers richie

Just had the wasserboxer apart. i replaced the CB 2296 cam with an SLR grind 286 at .050. I also cut the heads .110, and installed a .060 copper head gasket. The chambers CCed at 55, so now I have close to 12 to 1. Before I was running 8.5 to 1 compression and 60cc chambers. So this explains 11.62 at 115. I also installed my new Bugpack 2 stage pump. I need to pull the trans and replace the .85 fourth with a .93 (Mendeola)

Has anyone converted 044 heads to 4 inch bore????

I have the old 90mm wasser boxer crank and a 2.1 liter case to start on again. All I need are some 63 rods and a set of pistons, and 4 inch heads.