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I´m sorry to tell you that the lifters are not from RS!!!
The lifters come from http://www.tp-technologie.de
Best regards Thorsten

These came from James Calvert @ Stateside.
Does he stock your lifters?
They really are very nice

AMBROSIA wrote:

I´m sorry to tell you that the lifters are not from RS!!!
The lifters come from http://www.tp-technologie.de
Best regards Thorsten

These came from James Calvert @ Stateside.
Does he stock your lifters?
They really are very nice

Yes.....and thanks

Any updates?
I've read through your build threads with great interest and hope to apply your experiences to my own project WBX one day.

exportbug wrote:

AMBROSIA wrote:

I´m sorry to tell you that the lifters are not from RS!!!
The lifters come from http://www.tp-technologie.de
Best regards Thorsten

These came from James Calvert @ Stateside.
Does he stock your lifters?
They really are very nice

Yes.....and thanks

Thorsten:
Have a US distributor?
Need the T4 bushings as well.

Does Mario sell his lifters? Might be worth asking.... Or Shag?

andy198712 wrote:Does Mario sell his lifters? Might be worth asking.... Or Shag?

Shag used to, asked Mario a couple weeks ago, just asked again.

Might be worth simply ordering direct, the Euro is almost at parity with the dollar lately, and they list the T4/WBX lifter sleeves.

I just decided the Squarebacks is getting some new shoes and stoppers, so lifters are going to have to wait anyway.

Edit: Mario sells lifters made by Prescott Phillips out of Wisconsin.
EMW is probably the best source for the bronze T4/WBX lifter bushings in the US.

Things have been dragging on.
Just before xmas my machinist called to tell me that he had pressed in a bronze bush and noticed the lifter was a loose fit prior to reaming
The lifter was measured at 18.942mm Dia, the fitted bush at 19.029mm ID.
A gap of 0.087mm is already over spec before the required reaming.
Thorsten confirmed his lifers should be 18.94 - 18.97, so they are in spec.
The view is that the bronze bush is not being squashed enough in the case due to wear in the bores but I suspect these parts are just not compatible as they are at opposite ends of their respective specs.
I'm waiting to see if one of Thorsten's aluminum bushes is a better fit but i'm disappointed that the bronze one won't work for me as they look far more durable.
Like with all UK quality machinists, timescales are somewhat flexible but he's the right man for the job.
I'll post when I have some (good) news.

Both are outside "new" spec but within wear limits.
19.00-19.02 (new) 19,05 (limit)
18.98-18.96 (new) 18.93 (limit).

Both are outside "new" spec but within wear limits.
19.00-19.02 (new) 19,05 (limit)
18.98-18.96 (new) 18.93 (limit).

Yep, I would agree.

Finally i'm back where I started this thread!
The case is all together and I need to purchase cut to length pushrod's and was wondering what to get.
Now i'm running solids do I need to run chromoly steel or can I run HD aluminum to reduce weight further?

HD Aluminum pushrods, such as the ones John @ Aircooled.net sells, would work great!

HD Aluminum pushrods, such as the ones John @ Aircooled.net sells, would work great!

Thanks for the advice.
Any tips on the kind of clearance needed for this combo as I can't imagine you get the same sort of heat expansion on a wbx.

Since alu pushrods will expand at a greater rate than the cast iron/alu stack comprised of the cyls and head, valve lash will close as temps increase. So start with a reasonable lash all around, like .006", then run the engine to full operating temp. I would want a .001-.002" hot lash, so set one pair of valves to that while hot, or whatever hot lash would feel safe to you. Let the engine cool overnight and check the cold lash on that pair, that will be your cold lash for all.

Lots of engines required setting valve lash hot (some even while running) but once you shut the engine off, temp is falling as you work. Cold lash is a better spec to have because the engine isn't changing temp as you work, plus it's just a lot less unpleasant working on a cold engine.

Since alu pushrods will expand at a greater rate than the cast iron/alu stack comprised of the cyls and head, valve lash will close as temps increase. So start with a reasonable lash all around, like .006", then run the engine to full operating temp. I would want a .001-.002" hot lash, so set one pair of valves to that while hot, or whatever hot lash would feel safe to you. Let the engine cool overnight and check the cold lash on that pair, that will be your cold lash for all.

Lots of engines required setting valve lash hot (some even while running) but once you shut the engine off, temp is falling as you work. Cold lash is a better spec to have because the engine isn't changing temp as you work, plus it's just a lot less unpleasant working on a cold engine.

Makes perfect sense, thanks for your time.

I have a 1900 wasserboxer and wane build a oxyboxer but have no idea were to start