SparksLP wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2019 5:02 pm
So with trimming the stops the goal is to allow for more suspension travel when the car is lowered?
Yes but you also bottom out harder because there is less material to squish... but that is just the start of it .
Be careful remove a little at a time as it is easy to go too far ususally sooner than one would think; then you would buy new and have to start over (and over, and over, etc.) until you get it right .
Lee,
I think it's internally. Overall feels good shifting, but it just doesn't shift down from third to second, not until I'm going really slow (10-15mph). If I force it down in the normal range for second gear it "chunks" into gear. I haven't had a chance to check the clutch cable yet, the clutch pedal travel seems long to me.
Also there is a bushing just behind the shifter hole that the shift rod goes through. The bushing is held in by a snap ring type of device and the bushing can either wear out or fall out via. the snap ring falling off the bushing.
Still going through the problems I have had over the years.
Am I correct that the connector from the shift rod to the trans has also been replaced?
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It took me a second to figure out the AL short throw conversion you were talking about . I use it for the bus shifter to bug pan conversion.
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This is something I am currently working on (amid many other things at the same time) but it shows the guide plate in the proper relationship for stopping accidental reverse contact; e.g., on the passenger side of the pan.
I haven't used the stock shifter for over 25 years now so I am not up on things that way.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus wrote: ↑Sat Jul 06, 2019 9:04 am
On a bug being lowered for auto crossing trimming the bump stops seems to be a normal thing to do.
Bugpack Truss Bar.jpg
I also recommend that you look into a "traction bar" setup (aka a truss bar or a Kaffer bar) to keep the transmission mount (aka pickle forks) from doing the "dance of death" which means up and down movement as well as side to side or circular plus variations of the theme.
I'm not sure if solid mounts are needed but they are used in some situations. Check your rules also.
Lee
Mine is not lowered, but I do have a "Kafer Bar" on it. It does "feel" like it makes a difference. The rear feels more buttoned down with the motor not moving up and down.
Ol'fogasaurus wrote: ↑Sat Jul 06, 2019 9:04 am
On a bug being lowered for auto crossing trimming the bump stops seems to be a normal thing to do.
Bugpack Truss Bar.jpg
I also recommend that you look into a "traction bar" setup (aka a truss bar or a Kaffer bar) to keep the transmission mount (aka pickle forks) from doing the "dance of death" which means up and down movement as well as side to side or circular plus variations of the theme.
I'm not sure if solid mounts are needed but they are used in some situations. Check your rules also.
Lee
Mine is not lowered, but I do have a "Kafer Bar" on it. It does "feel" like it makes a difference. The rear feels more buttoned down with the motor not moving up and down.
Lowered or not the Kaffer Bar, aka Truss Bar or Traction Bar plus some additional names, does keep the cantelevered engine on the loosely mounted mounts on the torsion tube from bouncing around and breaking stuff. It is use on off-road and sand vehicles. You have the unit that attaches to the trailing arm pivot but I think it is better attached to the cage down bars via. their pan connection fasteners. the other commercial units attach to the shock tower but I don't feel comfortable doing that because of my shock's spacers the bolts have to be over 6" long which is just too much as far as I am concerned. I am trying something else on my black buggy then upgrade my blue buggy (just had an ephipany on how I could do that).
As far as solid mounts I use them off-road (sand) and a lot of people use them for recreational use where the mounts would be worked harder then they were designed to so.
Slightly off topic, or back to a different topic, lol. I picked up a pair of used 185/60r15 tires and slapped on my drop spindles. Didn't get to drive around much, but they don't seem to rub anywhere!
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Tires are F 195/50-15 and R 205/50-15 Toyo R888's. Treadware rating is 100, so not a full race DOT but way better then the 400 rated Firestone Allseasons on my other rims. Oh, and wheels are a 5.5X15 wheel.
And other than the sway bars and shocks, the rest of suspension is stock and is at stock ride height.
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. I use it for the bus shifter to bug pan conversion.
